Self Hosting

I’ve needed this a few times for competitor research and checking random sites.

The Turris Omnia NG Wired is a high-performance router for advanced users, homelabs, and small network deployments. The device runs Turris OS, a Linux distribution based on OpenWrt.

Readme updated today:

MOS is a new open-source project for homelabs and small servers. Instead of being a traditional, storage-focused NAS, it aims to be more like a general-purpose server platform managed through a web-based UI.

A step-by-step visual guide for self-hosting newbies that shows off how to install NextCloud via the YunoHost system

I had been talking about getting fed up with my (circa 2021) Windows 10 machine for months, and I finally turned it into a Linux self-hosting machine! This has been my hobby over the last few weeks.

Clearly I’m using the wrong motor, I though I had calculated it out but apparently when it’s under load (the mobile part) it heats up to the point that it melted the hot glue holding it in place. Not great, how do I rectify this?

So I’ve gone through a few variations of this, those three double A’s are up putting 4.5 volts and this new motor is just about that and a little stronger than that smaller one. That was my previous motor that you see in the back. It’s working pretty well when I have the cat toy on there. It’s going pretty steady and I’m not getting too much heat from the motor like last time, though the battery rail on the back of that casing heats up quite a bit. Do battery rails usually heat up this much and I just don’t see it because they’re not usually exposed.?

Anyone know where to get a brighter bulb for this dinosaur or have an idea for replacing it with LED or something?

Title pretty much says it all. I’m trying to find a current limiting ballast for a solid state tesla coil, and this has the right size and current draw, but I’d like to eliminate the motor screaming, if possible.

So the lone LED in the middle, with two resistors, is going to be on all the time, as a night light to the night light.

So after doing some analysis of human factors (asked my lovely wife what she prefers), I decided to ditch the PIR sensor and just go with a switch. This is just the current state of the board, I’m gonna rip apart an old router to get the barrel jack, then put this thing in an enclosure of some sort and call it day.

But if I want the LEDs to actually be bright, I probably need to use the sensor to activate a relay, right?

I’ve got the appropriate amount of light for my microscope ring light, but now I need to put it all in an enclosure of some sort.

I got a microscope at auction a few weeks ago for a great price, only issue is the lights are super dim.

Crossposted from: https://lemmy.ml/post/9698836

The lower part of my screen is updated one frame earlier than the upper part. I was able to isolate the error to the HDMI output of my laptop. The screen or cable is not broken, as I don’t get these errors with other connected devices. I am assuming it is some hardware defect. Does anyone know what it could be and how I could fix it? Here are a few pictures that show the problem: pixelfed

These are pre-generated labels that can be set up after printing. I provide them for free to download here. If you are in the EU you can also buy them printed on a sheet of adhesive paper.

link is for buying a kit, but i see they also have opensource kicad/step files on the page for the ability to diy

I am doing “prior art” research to find out what are reliable and open constructions of sensors (and controlling/recording) platforms used in citizen monitoring of environment.

Onboard-RP2040 | USB-C Type Port | Multiple HAT Connectivity | ESP8266 | 0.91 OLED | 40-Pins GPIO Connectivity | 16 Mega-Bits Flash

Connecting Multiple Raspberry Pi HATs Wirelessly without Multistaking

AC DC Converter with Two Channels Compact and Powerful With an output voltage of 24V+5V, a very compact volume, and low power consumption, this dual output device with an industrial grade design can function in temperatures ranging from -40 to 85 degrees Celsius and control up to two devices at the same time.

So, I’m pretty new at soldering and I’m looking for some advice on how to not ruin a via while removing solder…

I soldered the Schmitt trigger onto a BoB then bodged it onto the HMI board using 0.3mm bodge wire. The controller is an ESP32 and I was having trouble with the hardware interrupts because the RC debounce I was using was too slow. The Schmitt trigger gives me a nice, square signal which the controller interprets properly. The chip cost me a couple of bucks from Digikey.

I made this ‘fix’ about 7 years ago and the device is still in use today. I know which one it is because my 5ohm resistor came out around 4.9 so the device always runs 2% out of spec.

Yes, it worked perfectly! The repaired broken line was apparently power to the LED backlight.

This was the first time I’ve used a stencil and solder paste to build up a pcb. It was so much easier to get all the components aligned and soldered on the board (on the back, there are 38 0603 capacitors which are always time consuming to hand solder). After just had to clear a few bridges and added a little extra solder to U1.

I’m working on replacing the Schneider SmartRelay on an Atlas Vista 613 wheelchair lift that I bought for my dad. The Atlas technician agrees that the SmartRelay is probably shot and the replacement is $1,000 wholesale. I built a replacement using an Arduino Nano, a UNL2803A Darlington array, a switching 7805, a bunch of Zener diodes, and a handfull of Schneider industrial relays.

With maple syrup season fast approaching (4 months ish) my thoughts have turned to working on the Sapmaster once again. I’m going to design and build a new top and bottom board this year to fit in the BUD DMB-4774 DIN case that I use for the SapMaster controller. That’s going to involve a bunch of SMD soldering which reminded me of the irritation that soldering with loose pieces of SMD tape causes me.

When I started soldering everything was big and had leads that went through holes in the board. You inserted the leads, bent them over to hold the component, flipped the board over, soldered everything, and trimmed off the excess leads.

I got myself a T12 clone station recently. I’ve only had a junk iron that plugs into a wall socket and heats up to full blast whatever temperature with the big giant tip. Not very useful for more precise work.

First time soldering anying this small. Would love feedback, or tips