Cotonou
On October 2nd, 2026, I left Nigeria for the first time.
It has always been a dream of mine to travel the world.
While I have been lucky to get jobs that allow me travel around Nigeria, and thoroughly enjoyed those experiences, I yearned to see more.
Imagine my excitement when I realized that Benin Republic, a country with so many tourist attractions, was just a few hours away from Lagos by road.
ROAD!
Road trips are my absolute favourite activity.
I LOVE BEING ON THE ROAD!
Preferably, in a fast car.
I could have made this trip a year earlier, but I needed my first time to be an experience. I had seen the budget-friendly options, but there was absolutely no way I was going to suffer in my country, and go to another man’s country to suffer again.
I decided to make the trip my 30th birthday present, to justify every choice I made and cost I incurred.
Honestly, I was initially saving for a new phone, but my trusted seller ghosted me at the last minute and I was too scared to hand all that money to a random seller.
My birthday was fast approaching, my birthday plans had fallen through because of work, I needed a significant birthday present.
Travel was a no-brainer.
I started looking for an Airbnb but could not decide on one, then I mentioned my plans in passing to a longtime friend, who said I should absolutely experience Cotonou from the comfort of Sofitel.
After that conversation, nowhere else appealed to me.
A few days after my 30th birthday, I was on my way to Cotonou.
The journey had its complications, but as soon as we crossed into Benin Republic, I was completely distracted by the sight that greeted me.
THE IMMEDIATE BURST OF COLOUR!
I felt delirious for a full minute. I could not believe my eyes. The trip was already the best decision ever!
Driving into the city, sculptures and plants lined the roads, their colours standing out against the heavily pigmented sky. The Cathédrale Notre-Dame-de-Miséricorde de Cotonou stood proudly, welcoming us with its bright red and white stripes.
There was art and greenery everywhere. The roads were clean and wide, with separate lanes for motorcycles and cars.
The city looked intentionally created.
I was in awe.
My eyes could not see this alone, my phone camera had to capture it all too.
This was the only time I thought perhaps a new phone would have been better before the trip, but I was experiencing this dream come true, and the pictures were great regardless.
Getting into Sofitel hotel, the grounds were breathtaking under the setting sun. The helpfulness, courtesy and warmth of the staff before we even uttered a word were incredibly refreshing.
Everything about the hotel looked like something from a movie. The interiors, the service, the greenery, the high ceilings, the poolside…between the city and the hotel, I felt as though I had stepped into an AI-generated film.
I had planned to start exploring the moment I dropped my luggage and freshened up, but the arrangements made with the travel agency had not gone as expected. Thankfully, I had a friend who lived in Cotonou and she was happy to help me find my way around the city.
She took on the role of my guide throughout my stay.
I will forever be thankful for the gift of people.
After the day’s hiccups and having to navigate the city myself that first evening, all I wanted was a nice shower, some food and drinks, and my bed.
Using the fancy shower knob was a struggle, but as a five-star baby, I figured it out, freshened up and went to Erevan mall to get some snacks.
Erevan mall has the widest selection of groceries I have ever seen. I even saw a whole wheel of cheese for the first time!
I was so overwhelmed, all I left with was a bowl of mixed fruits.
Back at the hotel, I decided against sleep, changed into a halter neck adire dress and headed to the poolside bar for drinks before checking out Byblos Bar in the same compound.
After a few hours of drinking and dancing to house music, I returned to my room, and found a goodnight card on my bed and chamomile tea on the table.
Once again, my soul leapt for joy that I had chosen this experience instead.
I drank my tea, slept on the softest bed and woke up to the sound of birds chirping.
My room’s balcony opened onto the most beautiful sunrise and the most magnificent lawn. I completely forgot that I had preferred the pool view.
It was my only full day in the city, and it was time to explore!
I wanted to see everything seeable, but with how short my trip was, I knew I had to be intentional about the places I visited.
My main goal was the beach.
An untamed beach, iconic wreckage and free entry? I needed to see it and bask in the sun there!
But first, there was a city to explore.
My friend arrived early with sunscreen to combat the sun and change for motorcycle rides. We were ready.
Our first stop was Monument Amazone, the enormous statue honouring the women warriors, Agojie, of the former Kingdom of Dahomey.
I do not know when I convinced myself that it was made of stone, but I was more than slightly disappointed to discover that it had a metal structure covered in bronze.
Still, it was a magnificent sight.
I took pictures of and with the statue while holding the flags of Benin Republic and Nigeria, the sun blinding me and adding to the beauty of the landscape.
From there, we walked to the middle of the long graffiti wall along the Port of Cotonou, taking in the cohesion of the artwork despite having so many artists involved.
It looked far more immersive than any picture or video I had seen of it.
The colours, patterns, portraits and stories flowed into one another, yet each section had something different to offer.
Next, it was time to head to the art market to see what Beninese art looked like, and maybe get my hands on some souvenirs.
We took my second motorcycle ride in the country.
The motorcycle-taxi riders, known as zémidjans, wore yellow shirts. All motorcycles had spare helmets for passengers.
Man, Cotonou roads! I honestly cannot stop raving about the roads!
You bet my phone was out, capturing every single bit of my tour.
Very few locals I encountered spoke any English, but there was zero hassle getting around. What patient, warm-hearted people!
The art market was neither empty nor crowded. It felt like the kind of market I could live in.
There were so many keepsakes to be found, and besides food, I think I spent most of my money in the market.
I got a bronze bracelet, fridge magnets, a dress and waist beads.
I also found that haggling was not particularly successful with the traders I met. Perhaps bargaining was not popular among them, or maybe I was just deep in my tourist bag.
After a successful market run, we went to Cornetto for Italian gelato to cool our heads from the sun before heading to the promised land.
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I had two scoops: citron and Oreos and cream.
I do not know what I expected of citron, but the flavour kick was insane. Just as tangy as lemon, but not quite as sour.
A very interesting and refreshing flavour that I will absolutely not be trying again.
Please, I love my ice cream very sweet and crunchy.
Finally, it was time for the beach!
The long, winding coastal road leading to the beach was breathtaking, lined with palm trees.
And then we arrived.
The beach stunned me.
It was completely public. The entrance had been thoughtfully paved with red sand, making it easier for people to walk towards the beach without struggling through loose sand.
But that was it.
There was no gate, talk more of a gate fee. No barriers, no cabanas, no shops.
Just trees, sand and sea.
Sand and water, water and more water.
There were no stones or demarcations interrupting the shoreline, nothing obstructing the view of the ocean stretching endlessly before me.
Oh, how I love beaches. I am almost always on one whenever I get the chance, but this was different.
I had never seen an ocean that blue or so open. The sheer cleanliness of the water was astonishing.
The waves were wild from a distance, yet gentle at our feet.
There were marks and tiny holes in the sand showing signs of a population of crabs, and seashells were littered everywhere.
I even found a pink seashell!
There were horses, trees, beach keepsakes and curious sights along the shore, including an abandoned boat and what appeared to be the wreckage of an aeroplane.
So many things to see, yet nothing distracted from the beauty of the ocean.
I was happy.
I was free.
I was in awe.
I felt like I could breathe.
My friend had brought a blanket, which we laid on the shore.
We played music, took pictures and enjoyed the beauty of the ocean, then I settled down for the deepest sleep.
For three hours straight, under the scorching sun and with the sound of the waves in my ears, I slept.
A sleep that fulfilled all my sleep needs.
A well-deserved nap.
I had wanted to bask in the sun, and that was exactly what I did.
There was no rush to leave, no disturbance, no need to squeeze in another activity before I had fully enjoyed this one.
For those hours, the beach was all I needed.
I woke up as the sun began to set, and it was time to eat.
We walked the roads of Cotonou for about twenty-five minutes, just taking in the roads and enjoying the cool breeze till we got to a small restaurant where we ordered pasta and their version of suya.
The meal came with lots of vegetables, potatoes and plantains.
I did not get to try many indigenous dishes because of my hotel’s buffet, but from the meals I had, I noticed Benin people prefer milder flavours, way less pepper and sugar than I was accustomed to, and plenty of fruits and vegetables.
Soon after, it was time to experience nightlife in Cotonou, and I was not disappointed!
The Nigerian influence was evident in the music played, but you could tell that the people also thoroughly loved to have a great time.
At midnight, Code Bar was packed full of dancing bodies, drinks in the air and people from different nationalities and backgrounds.
It was a fitting end to a full day in the city.
Suddenly, it was departure day.
I woke up pleased but a little grumpy, I did not want to leave so I made sure to spend my morning lingering around, exploring the length and breadth of Sofitel.
I had used the gym throughout my stay, visited the bar and seen the poolside at night, but I had no idea what else I could do in the hotel. I decided to inquire and use up all the complementary features that came with my room booking.
After breakfast at the poolside bar, I visited the indoor pool, boutique, sauna and spa, walked around the exquisitely tended premises, and saw the tennis court and parking space for motorcycles.
Eventually, it was time to say goodbye.
Throughout my stay, I had tried my hardest to enjoy Cotonou without making comparisons with Nigeria.
The people who said you have never breathed properly if you have not left Nigeria did not lie.
I used to think it was figurative till this trip. Nothing had prepared me for the glaring differences I noticed as soon as we crossed into Cotonou.
You literally breathe proper air when you leave Nigeria!
No dust from untarred roads clogging your nostrils, no generator fumes adding flavour to the air, no burning refuse, just an abundance of greenery along the roads, giving the city a warm, homely feel.
I have to mention the greenery again.
Trees, flowers and plants lined the roads, not tiny sprouts but full roadside lawns, very intentionally planned and grown.
Even I felt green, with envy.
Again, the roads!
NO POTHOLES!
NO DIRT!
Not even piles of dead leaves from the plants. No dying plants!
There were separate lanes for motorcycles and cars, streetlights, clear directions and road signs. From the landscaping alone, it was obvious how much thought had gone into the city’s public spaces.
Of course, two nights in Cotonou, particularly from the comfort of a luxury hotel, could not tell me everything about what it meant to live there, but it was enough to make me question some of the things I had become accustomed to accepting at home.
Throughout my trip, I wore my absolute shortest dresses and shorts, and not once was I catcalled, insulted or looked at weirdly.
For the first time in my life, I walked freely along stretches of road without being chased down, spoken to or begged for money.
It was such a simple thing, yet it meant so much to me. I could not stop thinking about how ordinary these things should be.
Perhaps that was why Cotonou had made such an impression on me.
It was not just the luxury of Sofitel, the art, the beach or the nightlife. It was the culture of ease, respect and warmth, and the thought that seemed to have gone into making the city pleasant to experience.
I wish I could talk about my Cotonou trip without including the distasteful details, because none of them came from Cotonou or its people. Still, they are important to mention.
It was honestly hiccup galore trying to get into Cotonou; from having my passport seized and held for almost two hours at the Nigerian side of the border, to being abandoned to my own whims, having no standby driver and discovering that no reservations had been made for the planned night out, it was a mess.
Two things I learnt were not to take pictures at the Nigerian side of the border, and the fact that you do not need a travel agency to visit another West African country. With proper research and planning, you can organize your own trip.
I absolutely refused to let anything or anyone ruin my 30th birthday present. I had given myself two nights in a new city full of colourful, rich experiences and a real getaway from my responsibilities.
Nobody could steal my joy, and my joy remains untold and constant. It has been weeks since my return, and I have not lost any of it. Every time I think of Cotonou roads, the turquoise ocean or the waving trees, an unwavering smile spreads across my face.
Every day since I returned, I have given myself a pat on the back for not getting a new phone instead.
The phone would have been lovely, no doubt, but experiencing something I had always dreamed of was nothing short of amazing.
My trip to Cotonou is my best experience yet, and I barely scratched the surface in my exploration of Benin Republic.
There are so many landmarks and places I could not visit, including the fruit market and Ouidah town, which, according to my findings, promises a completely different, immersive and culturally rich experience.
I will definitely go back to finish what I started.
My appetite is whetted, my curiosity is more intense than ever, and I cannot wait to see what my next adventure will be.
