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Peter Mc

Peter Mc

A Surfers Way

4 min readJan 31, 2017
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Every surfer has their own unique vision of what it means to be a surfer. For some, surfing is an extension of their personalities or lifestyle. For others it is a way to express themselves. Every surfer may be different but the underlying feature which unites us all is the love for the ocean. The ocean is the very life force by which all surfers shape their lives. By choosing this ocean based life style, surfers have carved a niche for themselves. To most outsiders, surfers are known as free thinkers and free spirits. This open minded attitude towards alternative life styles and travel has pushed surfers to become modern day explorers. Some surfers are searching for the perfect waves while others are looking for their own versions of freedom. Regardless of the different desires and motivations spurring surfers forward most are guided by a set of core principles. Below are a sampling of five common characteristics that constitute the internal make up of surfers such as myself who keep surfing in their hearts and minds.

One of the driving characteristics of surfers worldwide is the desire to live a simple life. Surfers know that they do not need a ton of stuff to be content. Instead, simplicity helps one to realize what is important and to focus in on those experiences that truly matter. In surfing and in life, having a clear mind free of mental clutter helps immensely. Simplicity also helps surfers in other areas such as saving money, health, reducing your ecological footprint, low stress, low bills and becoming more efficient. The surfer life style almost enforces simplicity because traveling is such an integral part of catching waves. The whole idea of being able to move freely without the burden of too much stuff makes life so much easier. Simplicity has many forms but most surfers utilize most if not all of them.

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One of the most powerful characteristics found among surfers is the ingrained desire to explore. Exploring the world with a surfboard has led many creative people to discover more about themselves and the world around them. This desire to explore fosters internal growth while also creating a sense of empathy for different cultures. Surfers have become explorers to bring them in touch with the ultimate experience of waves, culture and personal growth. Exploring foreign coasts is akin to exploring the depths of ones being. Both are linked to gaining a greater understanding of what is important in this life.

Another characteristic of surfers is the need to be independent or free. Free in the sense that one is able to control ones own destiny. Freedom is not easily won but it is created over time through hard work. Work that is scheduled around surfing. Most surfers freelance their talents so they can then control their time. Which means if expenses are low, then freelancing enough to be comfortable provides excess time to surf. Freelancing also provides a means for which surfers can work within an industry they are passionate about. Waking up everyday and being able to control your time and loving what you do is by far the ideal independent life style.

In addition to the above characteristics, surfers also relish challenges. Challenges push surfers to hone their craft while also rewarding them for their hard work. Surfers are known for getting outside their comfort zone to see what they are capable of doing. What better way to make yourself feel alive than doing something you did not think was possible. Constant challenges also build up an individuals confidence. The very essence of surfing is defined by those who challenged themselves to think differently about what wave riding is capable of. The pioneers of surfing knew that to progress and grow they had to surf bigger and better waves.

One more characteristic that defines surfers is the need for adventure. Adventure makes life worth living. Constant adventure feeds the need for an adrenaline rush. Surfers by nature are adrenaline junkies. If the waves are flat chances are you can find any surfer trying to get his or her dose of adrenaline by doing something to make his heart beat a little faster. Adventure is also extremely exciting. Thinking about unknown waves and planning a trip to a foreign coast is what makes going on an adventure so appealing. One could argue that just going for a dawn patrol with your best friend to check the conditions make surfing an adventure. Being that the ocean is dynamic, you never know what to expect.

In conclusion, what defines the tribe of surfers worldwide is a willingness to focus in on their craft so much that it becomes their way of life. Surfers understand that to explore, challenge themselves, go on adventures, live a simple life and to be independent or free one has to be resourceful and adapt to different situations. It is no surprise then that surfers are inventing new ways of living. This willingness to be open to new possibilities is what makes the surfing life style so appealing.

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