Montenegro: Disappointment in Paradise
Introduction
When I first arrived in Montenegro in 2021, it felt like paradise, especially compared to the oppressive environment I left behind in Russia. The country’s natural beauty, warm climate, friendly people, and affordable living made it a haven for me and my family. However, my recent visit in July 2024 left me disheartened. Here I share my experiences and the problems that now darken this once idyllic destination
Personal Background
In 2021, I moved to Montenegro to escape the political regime in Russia. Montenegro was a breath of fresh air: the vibrant nature, the Adriatic Sea, and the mountains were a stark contrast to the grey, harsh life in Saint Petersburg. We finally found a sense of security and freedom, and the cost of living was surprisingly low. Learning the local language allowed us to integrate smoothly, and we enjoyed the local cuisine and culture.
After a year, we relocated to Finland for better opportunities for my wife, our son and for me. Our subsequent visit in April 2023 was still filled with admiration, though we noticed subtle signs of decline. This July, our return revealed bigger issues that have significantly impacted our perception of Montenegro so much that we decided not to spent any more vacations there
Downsides
Here are the major problems that have emerged in Montenegro, particularly in Herceg Novi, but also noticeable in other tourist areas:
Expensive
Montenegro was once a haven for affordable living, but prices have surged. A meal that used to cost €10 now rivals Finnish prices. Our grocery bill for three days for a family of 3 was €120, a stark contrast to the past. The average salary in Montenegro by the way is around €800
Rude service
Customer service has declined, reminiscent of old Russian standards. My visit to the hairdresser left me feeling unwelcome, and attempts to make an appointment with the dentist were met with arrogance. This level of rudeness is unacceptable, especially compared to the polite service in Finland.
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I literally had such dialogue (it was in Montenegrin/Serbian by the way)
- Me: Hey
- Barber: Wait (not even hello)
- Me: ???
- Barber: Wait, take a seat
- Me: How long should I wait?
- Barber: ~15 minutes
Another example with a dentist (it was in English):
Dentist: I can do you a favour and take you today at 18:30. No, you don’t understand, I do you a favour to come at that time; otherwise, it’s not possible — not today, not tomorrow, never.
Glovo
Our first day back, we attempted to order essentials via Glovo, the main delivery service. After 4 hours of delays, our order was simply canceled. Glovo is notorious for being unreliable, but this was a new level of frustration
Awful taxi
Taxi service is the worst of them all. Glovo at least has an app with some information. To order a taxi in Herceg Novi, you must call the number, explain where you are (in Serbian), and hope for the best. There is no guarantee of timely service or a taxi arriving at all. Also be prepared to explain to a taxi driver where you want to go
Prices have also doubled in two years
Language Barriers
Continue on that, while we managed with basic Serbian, many tourists will struggle as English is not widely spoken. This language gap affects everything from ordering food to navigating services. One pizza place literally hung up after the question “do you speak English?”
Limited Public Transport
But you cannot just give up on a taxi if you don’t have a car. Because there is barely a public transport in the town. The traffic jams, especially in peak season, add to the inconvenience
Poor Airport Facilities
Tivat Airport is a disappointment. Beyond passport control, there are minimal amenities: one small shop, a vending machine, and a dirty toilet. The waiting area is cramped, and flight delays are common. No wonder people prefer to use the airports of Croatia or Albania
Neglected Buildings
Many buildings, from private houses to large hotels, are in disrepair. These abandoned structures, even in prime locations like the old town or along the coast, detract from the beauty of the surroundings
Pollution, Littering and Overcrowding
Montenegro lacks adequate waste management, leading to pollution in some areas. Litter on beaches, in parks, or around tourist attractions can be disappointing for visitors expecting pristine natural beauty. The Blue Cave, for example, is so overcrowded with boats that it’s hard to breathe
Cash Dependency
Not all shops, establishments, and cafes accept cards in 2024, and tourists often need cash for various transactions. Taxis, again, accept only cash
Accessibility Issues
Herceg Novi is not stroller- or wheelchair-friendly. The town’s hilly terrain, narrow sidewalks, and numerous stairs make it challenging for families with young children and people with mobility issues to navigate the area comfortably
Upsides
Despite the disappointments, Montenegro still has its charms:
Natural Beauty
The stunning landscapes, from the sea to the mountains, remain breathtaking. The blooming nature is a major draw for visitors
Affordable Alcohol
Compared to Finland, alcohol is significantly cheaper. However, don’t expect a big diversity of beer, but you’ll love Nikšićko
Delicious Local Cuisine
Balkan food is a highlight, especially for meat lovers. The rich flavors and traditional dishes are a culinary delight
Cultural and Historical Sites
Montenegro is rich in history and culture. In Herceg Novi alone, there are several castles. Attractions like Ostrog Monastery, Perast, Kotor, and Lovćen offer memorable experiences. Local churches add to the charm
Conclusion
While Montenegro’s natural beauty and cultural richness are undeniable, the rising costs, poor service, and infrastructural issues are significant drawbacks. For those considering a visit, it’s essential to weigh these factors and manage expectations accordingly. Montenegro may no longer be the paradise it once was, but it still holds treasures for those willing to navigate its challenges
Some tips for tourists
- Avoid Tivat and Podgorica airports: Consider flying into airports in Croatia or Albania for a better experience.
- Consider renting a car: Ensure you have a parking lot near your accommodation.
- Book accommodation beforehand: Especially during peak season.
- Bring plenty of cash: Not all places accept cards.
- Learn basic Serbian/Montenegrin: It will greatly enhance your experience and interactions with locals
