Why Travel to Colombia Now?
“It sounds like an amazing trip,” the email read, “but I don’t think it is a good time to go to Colombia.”
Honestly, I appreciated the feedback. You send a lot of emails when starting a business, and sometimes I swear I can feel them dissolving into the cloud. Turning myself into a spambot had not yielded the response I was hoping for. This woman, responding to my email advertising a language and cultural immersion trip to Colombia’s coffee region, at least engaged enough to let me know what she was feeling.
I understood — the timing was bad. The tide was finally ebbing on the standoff between US President Trump and Colombian President Gustavo Petro, but it had dominated an entire news cycle in the United States and continues to echo in Colombia. To dramatically oversimplify the conflict, Petro refused to accept deportation flights on military transports and Trump responded by halting visa processing for Colombians, cancelling visas for government staff, and threatening a 25% tariff on all Colombian goods. Ultimately, a flurry of back-channel negotiations resulted in a resolution to the conflict. Customs agents stopped smiling at Colombian travelers, but the cancelled visa appointments for Colombians resumed and thankfully the tariffs did not materialize.
The U.S. State Department increased Colombia’s travel advisory to a Level: 3: Reconsider Travel, citing the dangerous border with Venezuela as well as violence in the departments of Aruaca, Cauca, and Norte de Santander. The reality is that if travelers avoid these areas and exercise normal travel precautions, the country is as safe to visit as any. For a deeper dive into how the war of words between Trump and Petro has impacted travel to Colombia from the United States, check out this article by Kathleen Wong of USA Today.
The past five years has seen an explosion in tourism in Colombia, and expats have been gobbling up real estate in the picturesque highlands around major cities like Medellin, Pereira, and Bogota. I taught at an international school in Santa Marta ten years ago, and I have been blown away by the transformation I’ve seen in travel infrastructure. It has improved so drastically that soon travelers are going to be looking for ways to get off the beaten path.
With all the uncertainty in the world, especially for teachers, I understand the impulse to go into survival mode. I just know that I can’t do four years like that. For me, hunkering down is not the best way to take care of my mental health, to meaningfully resist what is happening in our society, or feed my soul. I know travel is a privilege, and I think we can exercise that privilege for good by being open to other ways of life, making connections with people from other backgrounds, and countering the narrative of division. For those reasons and these ten more, now is a great time to travel to Colombia.
1- Colombians are invested in building a healthy and sustainable tourism economy. Although the country is incredibly diverse, by and large Colombians are famously welcoming to travelers who respect and appreciate their culture. Visit Colombia and you’ll experience a depth of interaction with locals that would take much longer in other countries. However, people take social responsibility very seriously, and those who travel to Colombia for sex or drug tourism are not welcome. There are a myriad of innovative new attractions such as soccer, music, bike, and food-based tours in cities and white water rafting, zip lining, and mountain biking trips in the countryside. There are also SO MANY museums. Explore the country through the lens of literature by visiting the boyhood home of Gabriel Garcia Marquez, art at the Museo Botero, or history visiting the hacienda where Simon Bolivar spent his last days. This website describes MUSZIF, a museum located underwater and the Museum of Gold, which features indigenous artifacts in Bogota as well as several others.
2- En Colombia Todo Es Posible: It’s true of the driving, unfortunately for the politics, and it’s also part of the attitude people have. I’ve seen a parking attendant tilt a parked motorcycle so that a random car could squeeze into a parking spot with millimeters to spare. That would simply never happen in the US. Colombians also somehow manage to work and socialize all day at the same time. The hustle is real, as Colombians wake up earlier than people in almost any country in the world, but making time to talk to and support each other is an equally important value.
3- Diversity of landscapes and cultures: The richness of culture in Colombia has been shaped by its geography. The country has six main geographical regions, each with its own distinct climate, topography, history, and culture. The Region Caribe was the first part of the country settled by Eurpoeans and features beautiful colonial architecture. It is also the home of the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, the world’s highest coastal mountain range as well as The Magdalena River, made famous in Love in the Time of Cholera. The Insular region is made up of stunning islands off Colombia’s coast. The heart of Afrocolombian culture is in Region Pacifica along with many tranquil, gorgeous beaches. See capybaras, anteaters, and giant otters on safari in Los Llanos, which is also home to the country’s cowboy culture. In addition to the open range, the area features forests, wetlands, and savannah teeming with wildlife. In fact, Colombia contains over 10% of the world’s total biodiversity, much of which is located in the Amazonia region. The area is an eco-tourism hotspot, with flora, fauna, and waterfalls unlike anywhere else on Earth. La Region Andina is the most populous. It is divided by three branches of the Andes Mountains range. Bogota, Medellin, and Cali, the three largest cities in the region, are all about 8 hours from each other and are all markedly different. Cheap airline flights connect the major cities, but some of the most spectacular sights are found in the countryside. Surprisingly, the Andean region is also the most biodiverse, perhaps because of its range of altitudes and the segregation engendered by the mountains. It includes the Zona Cafetera, Colombia’s coffee region, described below. In terms of nature, from glacial lakes to birding parks to multicolored waterfalls in the jungle, there is truly something for everyone in Colombia.
4- Diversity of Peoples: There are approximately 1.5 million indigenous people in Colombia representing over 115 different tribes living in every department. There are over 70 different languages spoken in the country. Within this staggering amount of ethnic diversity, many indigenous groups have organized to fight their marginalization and protect their rights. El Movimiento de Autoridades Indígenas de Colombia (AICO) is an indigenous political party. La Organización Nacional Indígena de Colombia (ONIC) is dedicated to indigenous political power in defense of their lands, ancestral knowledge, languages, and ways of life. La Organización Nacional de los Pueblos Indígenas de la Amazonia Colombiana (OPIAC) has a similar mission and is based in the Amazon region. The Ciudad Perdida ruins in the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta were built by the Tayrona People over 600 years prior to the construction of Machu Picchu, and can be reached via a 5-day trek. La Confederación Indígena Tayrona (CIT) represents descendents of those people who still live in the region’s coastal and mountainous areas today. Many other indigenous individuals and organizations are actively working to preserve their traditions, restore biodiversity, and safeguard the environment in their native lands. The Colombian government partners with indigenous and Afro-Colombian artisans in Expoartesano, which is a giant artisanal market held in Medellin and Bogota every year. Another way to learn more about indigenous cultures is to actually visit their communities, but be sure to be respectful and verify that any tourist activities are approved (and hopefully run) by the tribe.
Get Carrie Pilmer’s stories in your inbox
Join Medium for free to get updates from this writer.
Vice President Francia Elena Márquez Mina is the second woman and first Afro-Colombian to hold the position. She cites her People’s history of resistance beginning when the first enslaved Africans were brought to the then Spanish colony of New Granada in the 1500s. The town of San Basilio de Palenque, founded by escaped enslaved people, was the first free town in the Americas and is now an UNESCO World Heritage Site. In fact, all communities of escaped Afro-Colombians were known as palenques, which means barrier. Many Black soldiers served in Simon Bolivar’s army that vanquished the Spanish. Today there is incredible diversity within the Afro-Colombians population, which makes up about 10% percent of the country. Its cuisine, music, and traditions all have been heavily influenced by Afro-Colombian culture. There are many organizations dedicated to celebrating and empowering Afro-Colombian communities such as RedAfro and La Asociación de Mujeres Afrocolombianas. Visit Cali, Cartagena, Nuqui in Choco, or the islands of San Andres and Providencia to experience Afro-Colombian heritage past and present.
5- Music: If you ever wanted to live your life with a soundtrack but no headphones, Colombia is the place to do it. There is always music playing from somewhere. Parks are full of families picnicking with portable speakers. There is a rich and varied musical heritage in Colombia from the mixing of indigenous, African, and Spanish traditions. The city of Cali is considered the world capital of salsa. Other popular genres include reggaeton, which was born in Puerto Rico but went to college in Colombia, vallenato, and cumbia. The Medellín Music Lab, opened up by J Balvin in conjunction with several community organizations, is a free public recording studio meant to be an incubator for local talent. Dance is taught in schools as a central part of PE. If you want to go out dancing, you’ll find innumerable options in all the major cities and many places offering lessons if you’d like to practice your moves.
6- Coffee: Like music, coffee is part of the fabric of life for many Colombians. Many have their first cup of tinto as kids. Colombian Arabica beans are considered by many the best in the world. Colombians take a lot of pride in the quality of their coffee. Visit Tanta Tinta in El Retiro or Tambos Café in Rionegro to dive into coffee shop culture. To trace the journey of your cup of coffee from bean to cup, you’ll have to start by exploring the Coffee Triangle found in the departments of Cauca, Quindio, and Risaralda. The region has the optimal altitude, soil, and climate for growing beans. The coffee growing process here is low-tech, in a large part due to the steep hillsides on which many farmers grow their crops. Over 90% of coffee farms in the region are small. Cooperatives, like Asocafe Tatama in Risaralda, have allowed farmers to band together to lower logistical costs (collection, storage, and transportation) and to bargain for fair prices for their incredible product.
Nestled in the foothills of the Andes, the Eje Cafetero also features many national parks including Parque Natural Nacional Los Nevados (meaning snowy peaks). Inside the park, the Cocora Valley is famous for its wildlife, stunning vistas, and the world’s highest wax palm tree.
7- Soccer: I’ll put money on the Colombian Women’s soccer team bringing home a medal in the next World Cup. The side features many world-class players, like Mayra Ramírez and Leicy Santos. If you’re a fan of the game, you have to start watching Linda Caicedo. She’s a 19-year-old footballer and cancer survivor who plays for Real Madrid and who may become the best player in the world within five years. This goal got her nominated for a FIFA Puskas Award. The men’s team is pretty good too. The country shuts down when a game is on. Buy a jersey in the street for $10, put it on, and you’ll immediately have tons of friends.
8- Sustainable agriculture: You’ll see all kinds of things repurposed in Colombia. There is much less waste in general than in the United States, and that extends to agriculture. As the impact of climate change on farmers becomes more apparent, sustainable agriculture has emerged as a path to improved food security. Circular agriculture is practiced by many small farmers in the country and farm-to-table is a way of life in many rural communities. For example, on a small coffee finca nothing is wasted. The coffee cherries (fruit around the coffee bean, which is actually a seed) are composted, as is the coffee bean shell. Coffee plants need to be cut down as fields are rotated every four years. The wood is then used to build all sorts of things, but furniture is one of the most popular. It is rare to see small coffee farmers who are not also using the land to grow their own food. Aquaponics has allowed other farmers to raise tilapia and lettuce side-by-side. Organic, Fair Trade, Bird Friendly and Rainforest Alliance aligned agricultural practices are common even in places where farmers do not have the costly certification. You can read more about agroforestry and other sustainable agriculture initiatives here.
9- Food: I can’t list the vast amount of incredible Colombian dishes, so I’ll limit myself to talking about arepas, fruit, pescado a la plancha con arroz de coco y patacones… it’s hopeless. The breadth and depth of cuisine that has evolved from the intersection of Colombia’s indigenous, African, and European roots is impossible to capture. Let’s talk a little bit about lunch. In Colombia, el almuerzo is the largest meal of the day. While ingredients vary by region, it usually consists of a soup, rice, beans, fish or meat, salad, platanos, fresh juice, and small dessert. The hearty meal evolved in order to meet the needs of farmworkers and features fresh ingredients to maximize nutritional value. The bandeja paisa from the department of Antioquia exemplifies this. Rice, beans, plantains, chorizo, ground beef, a fried egg, chicharrón, arepa, and avocado make up what is now considered Colombia’s national meal. Soups, especially ajiaco and sancocho, are also extremely popular, even in sweltering cities like Cartagena. I know I’m not doing the food of Colombia justice here. There are at least thirteen different types of arepas. When I lived in Santa Marta my favorite dish was pescado a la plancha con patacones and coconut rice.
10- Colombians have a lot to teach about responding to adversity. Yes, the country is now safe to visit, but it endured decades of violence fueled by drug trafficking, paramilitary groups, and guerrilla forces. Resilience is certainly a national trait. The revitalization of neighborhoods like Comuna Trece in Medellin, once one of the most dangerous places in the world and now a center of art and culture, show what is possible when a meaningful investment in people and communities is combined with the optimism to imagine something different.
Although the current crisis has passed, it is very possible that the presidents will circle back and resume feuding. If that happens, the sun will keep rising about 6 am in the morning and setting and 6 pm in the evening the way it does everyday all year. Across the country people will keep waking up in the morning absurdly early, going to work, and eating gigantic lunches, and it will still be a great time to visit Colombia.
