What You Actually Need to Fight Dark Spots/Melasma/Hyperpigmentation
(FROM DR CHARLES MD, BOARD-CERTIFIED DERMATOLOGIST)
Jan 23, 2026
Hello friends! Today, we’re talking pigment. If you’ve ever looked in the mirror and thought:
“Why are these dark spots STILL here??”
…trust me, you’re not alone.
Dark spots, melasma (stubborn patchy pigment, often triggered by sun + hormones), and hyperpigmentation are some of the most common things I see in-clinic. They’re also some of the most frustrating to treat because people are doing a lot… but missing the few things that actually move the needle.
So, let’s keep this simple:
You don’t need 12 brightening serums.
You need the right core routine.
Here’s what I actually recommend as a dermatologist, if you’re trying to get pigment under control.
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- Tinted Sunscreen (yes, tinted)
Most people know UV light worsens dark spots.
What they don’t realize? Visible light can make melasma and pigmentation worse too. Research shows that simple visible light exposure contributes to pigmentation issues, and can lead to worsening discoloration over time.
That’s why I’m a big fan of tinted sunscreen, specifically formulas with iron oxides, because they help protect against visible light exposure.
So yes… if we’re treating melasma or stubborn hyperpigmentation and you’re skipping tinted SPF… you’re making this harder than it needs to be.
Great option: Beauty of Joseon Tinted SPF
Dr. Charles Hot Take: If your sunscreen isn’t daily, nothing else matters. Brightening products without sunscreen is basically chasing your tail.
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2) Azelaic Acid
Azelaic acid is one of my favorite ingredients for hyperpigmentation because it’s both anti-inflammatory and shuts down the pigment production pathway.
It targets:
- pigment
- inflammation
- redness
- acne
And for melasma, that “anti-inflammatory” piece is a big deal because inflammation is one of the main reasons pigmentation sticks around.
This isn’t always the ingredient that gives you that instant “wow” by day 3… but used consistently, it’s one of the most reliable tools we have.
My suggestion: Anua Azelaic Acid
Dr. Charles Hot Take: If your skin is sensitive or you’ve wrecked your barrier before, azelaic acid is usually a smarter move than trying to go the aggressive route right away.
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3. Exfoliation (to clear the “stained” skin cells)
Here’s the simplest way to think about exfoliation: hyperpigmentation lives in the skin, and some of those darker “stained” skin cells need to shed off over time.
That’s where exfoliation helps.
Not because exfoliation is magical… but because it helps your skin cycle through pigment more efficiently and improves tone and texture.
BUT (big but):
Over-exfoliating can inflame your skin… and what did we learn earlier? Inflammation can worsen pigmentation. So please, don’t go crazy with it every day.
Try out: The Ordinary Peeling Solution
Dr. Charles Hot Take: Exfoliation should be a tool, not a lifestyle. A lot of people ruin their barrier trying to “scrub pigment away.”
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4) A Brightening Agent
This is where you can add a targeted brightener to directly support a more even tone.
Some of my favorites include:
- Kojic acid
- Vitamin C
But they work best when your basics are already handled: sunscreen + inflammation control + healthy barrier.
Awesome example: Clinique Even Better Serum
Dr. Charles Hot Take: People love brightening serums because they feel productive. The real results come from consistency + protection.
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**Bonus: Polypodium Supplement
This one’s more of an “extra credit” option.
Polypodium (often polypodium leucotomos) is sometimes used as an internal support for people dealing with pigment or sun-triggered issues.
This is NOT a substitute for sunscreen.
But in certain patients it can be a helpful add-on to a full plan.
Dr Charles Hot Take: Supplements are the cherry on top. If you’re not already doing daily SPF, start there first.
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Final Thoughts
If you’re trying to fight dark spots and melasma, here’s the simplified plan:
✅ Tinted sunscreen daily
✅ Azelaic acid for inflammation + pigment control
✅ Exfoliation (carefully, not aggressively)
✅ A solid brightening serum
If you’ve tried any of these (or have one you swear by), drop a comment! I love hearing what actually worked for you.
XO,
Dr. Charles
