CMT: SILVER SURF MOTEL, SAN SIMEON, CA
$62.81
I wanted to spend some time on a stretch of the California Coast where I’d never stayed before. A laborious search of state campgrounds yielded 3 nights at San Simeon State Park, a few miles from the Hearst Castle. Coastal camping plus a tour! I had one night before my camping reservation kicked in.
The listing for Silver Surf Motel on Expedia is for $63 total, exclusive of a $150 deposit. That qualified as the Cheapest Motel in Town. The guy checking in before me was a chronic complainer. The lady at the check-in desk knew him quite well, a seemingly frequent visitor with Texas license plates. He didn’t sound Texan, so maybe the auto tags were a tax dodge. If you’re a member of the military, odds are you can register your vehicle in Texas or Oregon to avoid taxes, or even Alaska, so you can cash in on the annual “Permanent Fund Dividend” from the state’s oil revenue. Anyway, he bitched about every detail that came out of her mouth, to which she sweetly and repeatedly replied, “You should have called me on my cell phone ahead of time.” You can’t get much more hospitable than that.
The motel is a two-story, three-sided affair, done in Pacific Northwest plain drab siding. On the outside of the U, there is parking all the way around. The doors have all the appeal of a labor camp dorm. I wasn’t expecting much when I hauled my gear up one flight of stairs.
Inside, a shockingly nice room, not the usual CMT accommodations. At the far end, the sliding glass doors and balcony look out on a well-maintained lawn. Not the usual vertical blinds, either. Big white plantation shutters, and none of them were broken. I spied the usual functional faux-wood sheet flooring in the foyer — yes, a foyer — and bathroom. There’s an open closet in the foyer too, with plenty of hangers. The bedroom itself has nice, clean, non-shag carpeting. The wall-mounted flatscreen works well, as do the overhead and wall-mounted bedside lights. The refrigerator was chilly and silent. For morning libations, the management provides a real coffee maker with a glass pot and Kahvi coffee inserts. There is an old-timey microwave for reheating those yummy Circle K leftovers.
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The writing area is just below the flat screen, between the refrigerator and shelf unit with coffee maker and microwave. It’s not as comfortable as a separate writing table and chair, but if you’re motivated, it’ll work. There are plenty of electrical outlets throughout the room and bathroom. I couldn’t find a thermostat for A/C; apparently global warming hasn’t made it this far yet. There is a cute little heater built into an inside wall that comes on with the twist of a single knob. The king bed is nice and firm, 4 good pillows. I didn’t spot or hear any bedbugs. Everything in the room looked new and well-maintained.
The bathroom is equipped with a shower stall and plenty of hot water. They have dispensers in the shower and next to the sink for the usual cleaning products. Three bath towels, hand towels and wash cloths. The only feature not in perfect condition is the toilet paper dispenser. It’s not stuck on the drywall, so every time you unroll a square, the top edge tips forward. I thought about mentioning it at checkout, but the last time I played the helpful guest, I ended up getting charged for a lamp that didn’t work. As for aesthetic touches, there is a phone in the room, looks like it’s from the 1980s, that phlegmy beige model that haunts every office worker’s dreams until they retire. Other than that, a couple of nice floral prints on the walls and a full-length mirror where I could check my wardrobe before venturing out. Yup, very GQ.
Outside on the central lawn there are a few picnic tables, chairs, a bench or two. Last night I saw a fire going, assumed it is from a fire pit, but when I looked this morning, all that remained is a circular bare spot in the grass, as if a team of sled dogs had all peed in the same spot.
No stay at a CMT is complete without the human element. In general, the Silver Surf is a quiet place, especially after dark. There’s a bar and grill nearby, but no live music on a Sunday night. The neighbors on the other side of the wall from my headboard talked and coughed and snored all night long. That’s so common that they don’t bother mentioning it in the Expedia amenities section. There is only one disconcerting element: Two guys in their 30s hanging outside their front door a few doors down from me. There is a little girl with them who looked to be 3 or so. I assume, which is always hazardous, that one of them is her dad and the other her uncle or his buddy. Maybe dad’s weekend. From time to time they’d take their beers and cigs and go down to the smoking area, which I thought is courteous. They were loud, of course. The little girl is an energetic giggler, and louder than the grownups. She ran up and down the wooden front walkway. That is nice, I like hearing little kids having fun doing little kid stuff. The only odd thing is that I woke up at 11:00 PM to her running and giggling past my front door. I thought that a tad odd, maybe a little late for a toddler to be up. It went on for about a half-hour, then stopped. I had dreams of her screaming and banging on doors while the two guys were passed out, their cigs starting a bed fire.
In terms of quality and price, this is the best CMT deal I’ve come across in my two years of restless wandering. In California, no less; not much more than a gallon of gas.
PS: Because the gentleman at the front desk was friendly, I mentioned the toilet paper dispenser. He made a note (hopefully not to deduct it from my security deposit), thanked me, and bid me adieu.
