DMZ
Early start for a trip to the border.
If I'm being honest, the main reason for the swerve to Seoul was to visit the DMZ, in the main inspired by The Orphan Master's Son - a warts and all novel of life in North Korea based on witness testimony, with a dose of artistic licence thrown in.
The border with North Korea is only 50km from Seoul, a city that changed hands four times during the war, so we were there within an hour.
Not worth getting bogged down in the tour or the history, but the high/low light, was undoubtedly The Third Tunnel of Aggression, as they refer to it in the South. This was a cardio workout in a claustrophobe's worst nightmare. Our phones were removed before we entered the tunnel, so no photos or vid, but 500m+ into a tunnel of ever-decreasing height, getting wetter underfoot all the way down, wasn't my Ideal way to spend a Friday afternoon - although it was ace. Coming back, being all uphill, was its own challenge. At least there was air and headroom once back at the surface.
Pleased I did it, but won't again.
After that we went to peer at the North from the observation terrace. It was interesting to do, but I didn't get people trying to spot North Korean residents from the bank of binoculars, lined up for the purpose. Felt quite intrusive. Consequently I focussed on the flags and guard towers, but it all felt quite sad. Again, photos were banned - which seems a bit daft, but maybe it reduces the chances of NK soldiers shooting? One aspect of this bit was a direct view of where Tr*mp met yet another dictator for the sake of his ego, with no discernable positive result for the people affected. Nob.
Anyway, currently in a French bar in Itaewon where I have a front row bar stool for a local DJ doing his thing to nodding admirers. He’s quite good, but I’m not up for a late one tonight.
What a world - and aren’t we fortunate not to live in North Korea? This trip is generally about realising how very, very lucky I am, so point restated.
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In other observations, I know I would love Seoul in different circumstances. But my thing is to wander slightly aimlessly to land on things at random. The cold simply prevents this (snow tomorrow apparently), which is a shame. I can’t imagine coming back, so this will be it. It genuinely feels like (is) a fascinating place. And many many people have been charming and helpful. Especially when the old European bloke is peering at the tube map.
If you’re young, come here one day and party. Seoul is up for it.
