FISH TALE
Walking around Sapporo’s Nijō Market, everything smelled fresh, with that briny hint of the sea. The sushi that people were eating looked great. At a 5-chair shop, we paused, we nodded, we knew. The girl made us a reservation … 20 minutes, she said … and I wrote my name on her paper. “I can write it in Japanese, if you want.” She shook her head, smiling. Name over this kitchen, TA KE E SUSHI, at Minami 3 Johigashi.
As we waited, we chatted with the owner at the next shop, along with his wife and, probably, mother or MIL. He said everything was delicious. We believed him, but explained we were leaving soon and couldn’t bring fish with us. “Try this salted squid, it’s delicious,” he said as he pointed to a package with shredded contents. He then produced a disheveled plastic bag, which he opened and held out to me, saying “Try it.” I hear you all gasping (and often, my gasp would be the loudest), but I reached inside and grabbed some. It was … delicious. Salty, gently chewy. “Arigatō.” We bought a small package of salted salmon … “for the train tomorrow,” we said. The wrapper said Marusuda Shoten (which I am guessing is the name of this shop). His wife was smiling and charming. She and I carried on quite a conversation with nods, smiles, and quasi-Google translations.
Back at home, the thin slices of salmon had a deep infusion of shoyu. Too jerky-esque to eat as is, the re-hydrated piece’s umani-ness made them ideal to nibble with a glass of wine.
Our seats were ready. Let the feast begin.
I had a 10-piece omakase. David got a 12er … and though there was no ebi, there was kani (crab) which the chef immediately switched out … and handed kani to me! For about $45 total, we savored sensational sushi. Each slice of fish was generous, thickly cut, and overlapping the rice. And super tender. We had meltingly-soft toro at TOKOSHIE (in Tokyo) and amazing abalone at MIKI (in Kyoto), so our standards were not at the California level, but Japan high. The crab was tender perfection … shrimp, delicate … uni, salmon eggs, squid, ahi all amazing. We ate leisurely, chatting with a couple on nearby stools. Epic success! It was better than the fish we ate at Tokyo’s Tsukiji Market a few days later.
There are two expansive underground malls, both connecting with the main train station, and it was great to wander around on a rainy day.
We happened upon a food store called CAKELAND with flours, dried fruit and nuts, and equipment. I found 3 cat cookie cutters, in tin. I picked up two recipe cards … let’s see how well Google Translate does. (Classic Pound Cake … Rice Flour Pound Cake.
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Dinner was at USHINOYA, a Yakiniku restaurant on Minami Jonishi (Chuo Ward). Since it’s a yakiniku eatery, each table has a griddle.
Upstairs in the crowded room with small tables, we nibbled on edamame while the grill heated. Large plates with food, small plates for eating, tiny bowls with shoyu, a tall cylinder with tongs, and glasses with water was a constantly-moving … yet fun … puzzle around the now-hot griddle.
Leeks, onions, carrots, cabbage (we’ll be adding this to our veggies-on-the-BBQ list!), and sweet potatoes were the fresh vegetables we enjoyed. We picked the pork assortment … thinly cut pancetta, roast, shoulder. Everything was tender and enjoyable. And fun.
We had to go to SORRISO DELL’ ORSO … a natural hat trick, a trifecta, a threesome, a trio of lactic love.
I had “the usual” of sweet potato and roasted green tea … who knows when I’ll enjoy these fabulous flavors again. David had pistachio, milk, and coffee for total deliciousness.
When we’d finished, the gentleman-owner gave David a grappa. We thanked him and his assistant (who we guessed was his granddaughter or niece). They were both so kind, always smiling … I’m sorry we didn’t ask their names.
Hakodate was another one-night stand … a city on the south shore of Hokkaido. It was a good option since that is where one changes from the regular train to the Shinkansen.
Again, we wanted a hotel close to the station, and JR Inn Hakodate (in Wakamatsu-Cho) was next door. Sweet. But without a compass, it took us a few minutes to “take the west exit.”
The hotel is very modern, with a subtle train theme (not a surprise, since JR is the Japanese Rail). It was the first place that had a room where guests could pick from one of 16 or so special pillows. Our room wasn’t spacious, but up-to-date … with an amazing view over the tracks and to the ocean beyond.
Out we went … no route, no plan. It was a limited tour, but it seemed like a nice town. It will always hold a place in our hearts since it’s where we discovered baumkuchen.
… to be continued …
LET THE BAUMKUCHEN BEGIN
CHOCOLATE-PEANUT BUTTER BISCOTTI (CANTUCCI)
When Reese’s met Italy.
¼ cup oil
½ cup sugar
½ cup natural peanut butter
1 oz. (2 Tbl.) cocoa
2 eggs
2 c. flour
1 cup oatmeal, lightly ground
1 tsp. vanilla extract
1 tsp. baking soda
½ cup peanuts
½ cup milk chocolate chips
- Preheat the oven to 325°F (160° C). Line a cookie sheet with a silpat or parchment paper.
- In a large bowl, combine sugar, eggs, oil, peanut butter, cocoa, and vanilla.
- Add the flour, oatmeal, baking soda, and salt, mixing until it forms a stiff dough.
- Add the peanuts and chocolate chips.
- If the mixture seems too dry, add 1 Tbl. water.
- With hands, form dough into 2 logs, approx. 3 inches wide and 1 inch high. (Wet your hands with water if the dough is sticky.) Place on cookie sheet.
- Bake for 15 minutes until slightly firm to touch.
- When cool enough to handle, transfer to a cutting board. Slice each log on the diagonal into pieces about 1/2 inches wide.
- Return slices to cookie sheets, bottoms down … stagger each row so the cut surfaces overlap only slightly) to keep the cookies upright).
- Bake for 5 minutes. The cookies should have a softer texture.
Makes 30 to 40 cookies.
Enjoy!
