… Swim …
The saltwater stung my eyes. Grains of damp sand dug under my fingernails. The gray, tumultuous water crashed against my legs; I’d only just stepped into the wake but it was already hitting knee-length. Behind me, the instructor, a ruffle-haired local, shouted encouragements at our group in his thickly accented English. I set down my surfboard on the water, climbed onto it the way he’d just taught us just minutes earlier, and paddled out as the rest of the group began to as well.
The sky above was overcast, and though there was a biting chill to the breeze, the water was surprisingly warm — even pleasant. The waves ahead were heavy, even their reverberations close to the shoreline powerful enough to nearly knock me off the board. I wasn’t nervous; instead, excitement and adrenaline coursed through me, marred by the regret that my first time surfing wasn’t on a sunnier day. As the hour went on, I did end up getting knocked off, several times, but the experience was still breathtaking. The warm water, wild — but not too wild — waves, and wondrous view behind me all made it worthwhile. I could only imagine how much more incredible it would be if we had the good fortune of staying in San Sebastian a week earlier or later, during a hot spell.
When the sun is out, the water bright and reflecting warmth, San Sebastian is renowned for having “one of the most beautiful bays in the world” according to National Geographic — who lists it among the world’s best surf towns (check out their list for more destinations that may interest you).
Though there are many reasons to go on vacation, I know — speaking at the very least for myself — that beaches are a great pull and deciding factor. Even though I like vibrant, option-filled city life, there’s nothing like relaxing on hot sand or wading in warm water. Though Spain, in Madrid and Barcelona, offers city life, its beaches are its strongest attraction. I didn’t know if anything could top my experience surfing in San Sebastian — an occurrence that came in the very middle of my trip. However, I still had Barceloneta Beach and the Sitges in store.
The first thing you need to know about Barceloneta Beach is that it is a tourist spot. This comes, like anything, with pros and cons. It’s easy to find delicious beach restaurants like the one I mentioned in my last entry. However, it means fighting for a spot close to the shore to set your towel on the stand. Once you set up camp, slather yourself in either sunscreen or tanning oil, and recline in the sun, you still won’t have peace: Every other minute, a local approaches you, offering henna tattoos or massages, or selling water and donuts. Traveling in packs of young people is like a night light to the moths that are promoters: Groups of adolescent or young adult friends can’t relax on the sand without a different guy squatting down beside you every few minutes asking where you’re from, what you’re doing tonight, how long you’re staying here, and if you’re interested in going to some club, or evening yacht ride, or pool party — for a modest ten euros per person up front, of course. Obviously if a legitimate club is very in demand, it needs a hundred promoters to spend all day going and approaching every 16–26 year old on the beach, right?
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When you get in the water, though, every hassle melts away. A few steps and the water is up to your torso, a few more and it’s at your shoulders: no need to wade too far if you’re afraid of getting swept up in the current or stung by a rumored jellyfish. On one particularly windy day, the waves remind me of San Sebastian, and it’s a simple but unmistakable pleasure to bob on them, letting them carry you back and forth.
Describing water as ‘turquoise’ or ‘cerulean’ is a cliche, but there are few better ways to. The can’t-miss Mediterranean is a clear, vibrant shade as bright and polished as a gem, an entrancing deep blue with hints of sun-dappled green. As nice as swimming in it is, it’s still nice just to stare out at it from the shore, watching it stretch into the horizon, fading into the equally bright midday sky.
The Sitges beach, an hour away, offers something different. There are no frankly-obnoxious vendors offering jacked-up prices for cheap towels or henna that lasts a quarter as long as it’s promised to. You still have to contend with more children and more nude bathers — it’s both a family and a nude beach, somehow — but like the cons of Barceloneta beach, ignoring these has a huge payoff as well.
Sitges is quaint, with a small-town vibe that may feel refreshing after Barcelona’s thick crowds; different bays and beaches are connected by strips of open-patio bars and pizzarias. The water is much shallower, but view — quintessentially Mediterranean and picturesque — is worth wading out for five minutes. Renting a paddleboat with a slide offers up a bit of excitement if too much calm bores you. But it’s hard to feel bored at all with such balmy breezes, golden sun, and long, hilly coastlines around you.
Though one of these beaches may seem more up your alley than others, I recommend trying them all if you’re able. Each has something unique to offer; each has a different vibe; but they all share the stunning beauty that can only be found on Spain’s coasts.
