Itinerary for Six Days in Nicaragua
- Dates visited: February 2023
- Areas visited: San Juan Del Sur, Granada
- Time Needed: Six days
General Information
Nicaragua, a unique country in Central America, is the only country in Latin America once colonized by both the British and Spanish. Deemed the “land of lakes and volcanoes”, it is known for its two freshwater lakes — Lake Nicaragua and Lake Managua — and twenty-seven volcanoes. It is the largest country on the continent and touches both the Caribbean Sea and Pacific Ocean. Travel wise — it’s very similar to Costa Rica in the sense that it offers both beach and mountain exploration options. However, it’s not as built up as Costa Rica, so get there before it’s fully discovered!
This guide outlines a possible itinerary for one week in the country. Below is a quick overview of the proposal:
- Night 1: San Juan Del Sur
- Night 2: San Juan Del Sur
- Night 3: San Juan Del Sur
- Night 4: Granada
- Night 5: Granada
- Night 6: Granada
Note: The very end of this guide outlines what I’d recommend if time is not an issue, including visiting León and Ometepe. Scroll down to the bottom to view.
Communication
Most Nicaraguans do not speak fluent English, or English at all for that matter. Download the Google Translate app to communicate easier with locals.
Payment
Nicaragua accepts both the Nicaragua Córdoba and US dollar. Debit/credit cards are accepted approximately 25% of the time so it is best to always carry cash. Visit your local bank before leaving your home country to receive the best currency exchange rates.
Weather
Rainy season runs from May through October while the dry season is from November through April. Overall temperatures range from 80°F to 95°F. What’s not favorable, however, are the winds, especially on the beaches for non-surfers. Windy season runs from December through May, with the worst being in January and February. Speeds during this time average almost twelve miles per hour. It’s nothing to deter you from traveling, just something to be aware of before making the trek. We were only really bothered at night when trying to sleep.
Traveling around
Everything worth seeing in Nicaragua is less than three hours from each other, so it’s easy to get around via chicken bus (funky colored repurposed school buses that charge $1 USD regardless of how long you stay on the bus), taxi, or car. Most travelers begin in Nicaragua in either León or San Juan Del Sur based on their proximity to the borders or fly into Managua and leave immediately for those locations or Granada. Uber is unavailable all over the country.
We arrived in San Juan from San Jose, Costa Rica — a travel time of six hours directly door to door. If coming from that direction, the easiest way to travel is by renting a private shuttle (we used and adored Costa Rica Shuttle) that drops you off at the border. A driver will pick you up in a large van with AC and escort you five hours to the border town of Peñas Blancas. After walking through border control, another private shuttle will bring you the final hour to San Juan. The total cost for three people total was $460 USD including tip and tax.
This obviously is not the cheapest option, but we had to do it to avoid taking PTO. Other options to enter the country from Costa Rica include taking the Tica Bus or flying. The Tica Bus, a far less comfortable way to travel, leaves in the morning and takes up to nine hours. We would’ve considered this had the website not been broken upon booking tickets, so we didn’t want to risk it and show up at the bus station without guaranteed seats.
Renting a car is also an option, but only if you plan on returning it in Costa Rica. Rental car companies do not allow renters to take cars across any Central American border. The car would need to be left in Peñas Blancas for the duration of your time in Nicaragua. Several locals allow travelers to park the rental in their driveway for a small daily fee.
Costa Rica / Nicaragua Border Crossing
When arriving at the border, you’ll pass a long line of Mack trucks waiting for inspection on the right hand side. Pass them and head directly to the border’s “exit” building. If traveling with a driver, this is where they will drop you off. You’ll get a completely different driver and vehicle on the other side.
The fee to exit Costa Rica is $8 USD ahead of time online or $10 USD in cash in person. (Pro Tip: The website isn’t easily searchable online, so just scan the QR code at the counter and pay the $8 USD on the spot to save that $2).
After getting your passport stamped, walk across the border to Nicaragua and enter the country’s customs building. As of February 2023, travelers must present an updated Covid-19 vaccination form and pay a $1 USD verification fee (cash). Those traveling from South America must also present a Yellow Fever card if they have entered a country from that continent that is infected with the disease. Visit this website to see the latest entry requirements. Although we were informed we’d need to present our Yellow Fever card, we were never asked to show proof. Sounds like it’s hit or miss.
Follow directions to the next building where you’ll show your passport and pay the $13 USD cash entry fee. After, exit this building, walk across the parking lot and on to a narrow street with shops where you’ll find taxis and if applicable, your new driver. Or get lucky like us and have your driver meet you early at the Covid-19 verification station to walk you through the remaining border entry steps.
Note: Only Customs officials are allowed to park in the building’s lot so you won’t find taxis or a driver until you hit the tiny main road.
Safety
Nicaragua is a very safe country, though it’s best to stay alert at all times. Avoid walking at night, be wary of pickpockets, and overall practice good judgment.
Most travelers focus on Granada, San Juan Del Sur, Ometepe, and León. All of these are tourist-friendly. The only place to skip is Managua as it is known for higher crime rates and less things to do.
Drinking Water
Tap water is not safe to drink in the entire country apart from Managua. Save money by purchasing large water bottles and filling up a reusable bottle at your accommodation.
Tipping
For tipping in most restaurants and bars, round the bill up to the nearest dollar. Fancier locations automatically charge 10% gratuity. Tip all tour guides at least 10%.
Wifi
Wifi is available in most areas of the country, though not always strong. We worked and took Zoom calls from both San Juan Del Sur and Granada with no issues. Most restaurants and bars offer free wifi as well. Confirm the signal strength with your accommodations ahead of time if wifi is a priority.
San Juan Del Sur
- Time Needed: 3 days and nights
- Neighborhoods to Stay In: Maderas Beach, downtown
General Information
San Juan Del Sur is a surfer’s paradise. Known for its exceptional waves, surf schools, and laid back atmosphere — it is truly the place to hop on a surfboard, hang by the beach, and just relax under the sun. No wonder why the area has such a large expat community! For reality TV fans, it’s also the place where Survivor: Nicaragua and Survivor: Redemption Island were filmed.
Places to stay
The best place to stay in San Juan Del Sur is not downtown but along the coveted beaches on the outskirts. Located twenty minutes from San Juan on Maderas Beach is Hush Maderas, a true oasis and must-do, especially for backpackers and young professionals because of its hip and lively vibe. Hush offers affordable rooms with ocean views, free breakfast, live music, an infinity pool, and a ten minute walk to the beach. It also has a shuttle that takes guests into town several times a day for $5 USD round trip. The only downfalls to this accommodation are the crazy winds at night during windy season which consistently woke us up. Regardless, I wouldn’t stay anywhere else.
If staying downtown is non-negotiable, book a room at Hola Ola Hostel to meet like-minded travelers and be in proximity to most bars and restaurants.
Traveling around
Downtown San Juan is pedestrian friendly. It takes approximately twenty minutes to walk through all of it. To visit nearby beaches such as Playa Maderas or Playa Hermosa located twenty minutes from town, utilize the shuttle offered from Hola Ola Hostel or hop in one of the many taxis. It’s worth mentioning that not all taxis have a “taxi” sign displayed on the roof. Some drivers use personal cars. But don’t worry — getting in someone’s car is oddly..perfectly normal. That’s Nicaragua for you! We loved our drivers and had great conversation. Regardless of the car, negotiate prices ahead of time and bring cash as cards are often not accepted.
HOW TO BEST SPEND YOUR TIME:
DAY ONE: Playa Maderas
One of the main reasons to visit San Juan Del Sur is to relax and enjoy the beaches. Devote a full day or several hours to Playa Maderas, one of the prettiest beaches on the Nicaraguan coast. Book a surf lesson ($35 USD cash) upon arrival or rent a surfboard for $10 USD and try it yourself. Walk the long stretch of beach and admire the beautiful rock formations and wildlife circling about. Then eat at one of the several restaurants available on the shore, including Tacos Locos and Tuanita’s Kitchen.
If not staying at Hush Maderas, make a point to walk the ten minutes up the private trail to the hotel for a drink, dinner, and sunset views. The place offers the most beautiful viewing point over its infinity pool that can’t be missed.
DAY TWO: Playa Hermosa
In the morning, eat brunch at Dale Pues in town then take a taxi or shuttle to another gorgeous beach — Playa Hermosa — where Survivor: Nicaragua was filmed. Spend the day enjoying the waves then eventually make your way back to town to explore the tiny oasis. San Juan isn’t known for its beaches (those are a bit dirty and unappealing), but it has made a name for itself when it comes to bars and partying. If partying is what you’re looking for, start the night off at Tio Milton Bar and Cafe with a $6 USD delicious espresso martini. Continue the crawl at El Timon where happy hour is all day every day for both beverages and food. Make your way down the strip of bars and restaurants along the water, enjoying the view of the Pacific.
DAY THREE: Explore further
I could have stayed in San Juan for a week just enjoying the beaches. Spend at least two nights here and consider extending for longer if exploring and lounging is on your to-do list. If it’s a Sunday, participate in the town’s Sunday Funday Pool Crawl that starts at Pachamama Hostel. Every seven days, the town turns into a backpacker party haven. For $25 USD, receive entry into five bars, a t-shirt, free shots, and transportation to the final stop at Naked Tiger. If partying isn’t your forte, take a yoga class at Zen Yoga Studio then hike an hour to Cristo de la Misericordia, one of the world’s ten tallest Jesus statues. End the night on a catamaran at sunset with Nica Sail Charters.
RESTAURANT/BAR OUTLINE
- Dale Pues — Brunch
- El Timon — Great for dinner and sunset, nonstop happy hour food & bev deals
- Maderas Cafe — On the road leading to Playa Maderas, offers wifi
- Tacos Locos — Playa Maderas, offers $10 surfboard rentals
- Tio Milton Bar and Cafe — Upbeat yet small bar with great espresso martinis
- Tuanita’s Kitchen — Playa Maderas
Getting to Granada
The drive from San Juan to Granada takes approximately two hours. Schedule a taxi ahead of time with your accommodation or pick up one downtown. Typical fare costs around $65 total per car one way.
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Take your time leaving San Juan that morning. The important thing is to arrive in Granada for the Masaya Volcano night tour that typically departs from the colonial city around 4pm — so there’s no rush to leave San Juan early.
Note: I wish we had known ahead of time to spend several days in Ometepe, an island 2.5 hours (incl. ferry) from San Juan and 3 hours (incl. ferry) from Granada. It is the world’s largest island on a freshwater lake. The views and reviews of this place are absolutely spectacular — so if we had more time, I would’ve gone out of my way to spend at least two days on the island.
Granada
- Time Needed: 3 days and nights
- Neighborhoods to Stay In: Centro Historico
General Information
Granada was conquered by the Spaniards in 1523 and because of this, boasts incredible Spanish-style architecture and bold colors across town. At over 500 years old, it is one of the country’s two colonial cities — the second one being León — and is on the list to become a UNESCO World Heritage site. It is less than an hour drive from the capital, Managua, and is situated on Lake Nicaragua, the only lake in the world that contains sharks. This city is an absolute must-see when visiting the country and its day trips are very close and accessible from downtown, making it a great one-stop-shop for adventure and history.
Places to stay
Most visitors stay around Centro Historico to be at the center of the action (and safety). Airbnb offers great and affordable accommodations, including this two bed, two bath Spanish-colonial house with an indoor pool.
Selina Hostel is another exceptional option, offering numerous day trips, happy hour specials, and massages, all from a large Spanish-style building in the main square.
For a more refined stay, book a room at the Hotel Dario or Hotel Secret Garden.
Traveling around
Granada is a small pedestrian city so it’s very walkable. To visit key attractions on the outskirts, either book a tour or hire a taxi. If going the taxi route, negotiate the fare ahead of time and bring cash.
HOW TO BEST SPEND YOUR TIME:
DAY ONE: Masaya Volcano
Arrive in Granada after leaving San Juan Del Sur or Ometepe sometime in the late morning or early afternoon. Get situated at your accommodation then walk around the main square, Parque Central, and observe the locals playing chess, teaching their children how to ride a bike, and enjoying the sunshine. Walk five minutes to El Mercado Municipal, a local, often tourist-free market known as the cheapest in all of Central America, to people watch and purchase yummy snacks.
After, stroll down to the water to take your first glimpse of Lake Nicaragua, then stop at Los Mangos Food Park, a brand new open air food court, for a late lunch.
Be ready for your guide to pick you up at your accommodation at 4pm for the famous night tour of Masaya Volcano. Granada has many different tour companies that offer essentially the same tours for similar prices. Golden Tours Nicaragua is one of the best in the area, with extremely knowledgeable and communicative guides. Fun N’ Sun Travels based in León is another great option. Regardless of which company you choose, book the tour at least a day in advance. Another option is to rent a car and complete these tours on your own, but you’ll miss out on all the invaluable local knowledge so I wouldn’t recommend it.
The Masaya Volcano is located just thirty minutes from the main city center in the country’s first, largest, and most visited national park. Out of the twenty seven volcanoes, Masaya is the most active, though it hasn’t erupted fully since 1772. It is imperative to tour this area at night in order to see the beautiful red colors of the 2000°F magma chamber in the lava lake in the dark. This is one of two lava lakes in all of the Americas, the second one being Kīlauea in Hawaii. The tour takes travelers on a ten minute walk to the top of the hill overlooking the volcano to watch the sun set, then down closer to the volcano itself to look into the magma chamber and witness mini eruptions.
Once back in Granada, grab dinner at Pita Pita, a delicious Mediterranean restaurant.
DAY TWO: Free walking tour, Laguna de Apoyo
Start the day with an early breakfast at the Garden Cafe, an Instagram-worthy, open air restaurant. Then head to Selina Hostel to meet the guide for the free walking tour, running every day for two hours at 9:30am.
Although the tour isn’t one of my favorites (perhaps my guide was just..slightly boring), it was still worth taking time to learn the history of the area.
Hop in a taxi and head twenty five minutes back towards Masaya Volcano to Laguna de Apoyo, the clearest lake in Central America. Heated by thermal springs from the volcano, the lake is warm year round with beautiful landscape views. Paradiso Hotel offers $7 USD day passes that include access to the lake, kayaks, wifi, a bar/restaurant, floating dock, and more.
Note: Some people skip the walking tour and pair Laguna de Apoyo with the night tour of Masaya Volcano. We ran out of time to do Laguna de Apoyo and I regret it. Squeeze all these activities in for the full experience.
Return to Granada to watch the sunset from the bell tower atop Iglesia La Merced near Parque Central. The views are incredible. Tickets cost $1 USD.
To cap off the night, eat a traditional Nicaraguan dinner at Comidas Typicas y Mas.
DAY THREE: Mombacho Cloud Forest and Las Isletas Boat Tour
Book a two part tour for the day with Golden Tours Nicaragua. A driver will pick you up around 7:45 am at your accommodation and travel one hour to the entrance of Mombacho Volcano Natural Reserve and Cloud Forest. The cloud forest is far colder and mistier than in town as you are quite literally in the clouds, so wear a rain jacket and pants. Hop on an open air truck that weaves through coffee farms as it treks thirty minutes up the mountain to a small tourist center. Here, you’ll meet a guide who will walk with you for an hour through the forest along the Crater Trail, pointing out local flora and fauna. If it’s sunny, enjoy a spectacular bird’s eye view of Granada and Lake Nicaragua.
The reserve offers two additional hiking trails — one that’s two and a half hours and another that’s four (both requiring a guide). The views and trails don’t change much between the three options so the one hour trek is sufficient. It’s also possible to do this smaller trail without a guide, though it’s preferred to go with someone knowledgeable in order to learn more about the surroundings.
Arrive back in Granada around 11:30 am for a break before the second tour at 4pm. Enjoy a healthy lunch at Cafe Verde then grab a quick nap or walk around the town a bit more.
The second tour involves a boat trip to Las Isletas, a group of 365 islands on Lake Nicaragua made 2,000 years ago after the eruption of Mombacho Volcano. The guide from Golden Tours Nicaragua will pick you up at your accommodation again and drive ten minutes to the docks where you’ll jump in a small private boat to putz in and out of the little islands. See over thirty species of birds, local fisherman tossing nets into the water, and family houses on tiny plots of land. Convince your guide to stop by Vista Del Sol, a bar on one of the small islands, for a beer and view before heading back towards shore to watch the sunset over the volcano in the distance.
RESTAURANT/BAR OUTLINE
- Cafe Verde — Yummy and healthy
- Comidas Typicas y Mas — Traditional Nicaraguan fare
- Garden Cafe — Great for breakfast and lunch with solid wifi
- Los Mangos Food Park — Open air food stalls
- Pita Pita — Mediterranean cuisine with outdoor patio
Full Itinerary Proposal
If we had more time, I would’ve loved to travel the two hours by car to visit León after Granada, the second colonial city in the country. León is known for its Spanish architecture and volcano sand boarding at Cerro Negro and requires about two full days to explore. Pencil this in if time permits.
As mentioned previously, I would have also loved to do several days on Ometepe. That being said, if you have a good chunk of time, here’s the full country itinerary I’d recommend:
- Night 1: San Juan Del Sur
- Night 2: San Juan Del Sur
- Night 3: San Juan Del Sur
- Night 4: Ometepe
- Night 5: Ometepe
- Night 6: Granada
- Night 7: Granada
- Night 8: Granada
- Night 9: León
- Night 10: León
Regardless of what you’re able to do — Nicaragua is an incredible country that is worth going out of your way to visit.
SPEND MORE TIME IN CENTRAL AMERICA
Continuing to travel through Central America? Check out my guides on El Salvador, Guatemala, and Roatan, Honduras!
