Alto Adige Masterclass
Six Wines From Alpine Italy, Presented by Beatrice Bessi
Alto Adige aka Südtirol is a politically, geologically and historically complex and also very beautiful region of mountains and valleys sited at the foot of the Dolomites — the landscape is dominated by white peaks, green dense forests, rivers, lakes and terraced vineyards.
A mixture of German and Italian-speaking, it has both southerly Mediterranean and northerly Alpine influences, growing indigenous and international grapes at altitudes of between 200m and 1,000m above sea level.
With southerly exposure, long sunshine hours and low overnight temperatures, it has almost perfect growing conditions, resulting in wines that are pure, elegant and complex-yet-structured.
The region is small, just 1% of Italy’s vineyard, and individual vineyard sites are on average under a hectare, so co-ops dominate with about 70% of production. And yet the wines produced are 96% DOC.
Small-scale production and proximity to Italy’s northern cities and Austria mean that the high production costs of a necessarily artisan approach are reflected in selling prices to wealthy local buyers. Think Swiss Alpine elegance, with Latin charisma and Austrian commerciality.
A note on alcohol levels, altitude … and prices
With no shortage of either sunshine for ripeness or altitude for coolness, alcohol levels are relatively high (for alpine Europe) while maintaining freshness and structure.
All the wines were technically very well made, with the higher-altitude / higher alcohol wines showing more complexity.
Prices range from c. €20 ex cellar to almost €150 for the Pinot. As one attendee who had been to the area observed, pretty much every winery in this region lists a €100+ in its line-up. Whether this is reflective of quality or just a price-anchoring technique remains unclear.
The Masterclass — With Sommelier Beatrice Bessi
We started with a pink fizz. Elegant and delicate with citrus, red berries and little autolytic character it was a perfect aperitif.
Cantina Valle Isarco, Eisacktal, Kerner ‘Aristos’ 2024
14%
800m — 970m, 10m on fine lees in steel and old oak
pale translucent gold; citrus, fresh herbs, juicy green apple, poached pear and spice; concentrated, structured, elegant and saline with creamy savoury leesiness.
Very Good.
San Michele Appiano, Sauvignon ‘Sanct Valentin’ 2025
14.5%
450m — 650m, 75% steel / 25% large old oak, 6m lees aging
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pale bright gold; elegant and aromatic with floral elderflower and peach; fresh green herbs, white peach and melon; savoury, complex, concentrated and structured.
Very Good.
Ignaz Niedrist, Pinot Bianco ‘Eppan Berg’ 2024
13.5%
600m, steel, 6m lees aging
very pale translucent gold; rich, floral, exotic and spicy; aromatic with tropical fruits, melon and lychees, ripe orchard fruits and savoury macadamia; complex and elegant.
Very Good
Peter Zemmer, Chardonnay ‘Buchholz’ 2024
400m — 800m
13.5%
some skin contact, fermented in large oak
bright translucent gold; tropical fruit and complex oak, fresh citrus, lime zest and lemon curd with sweet vanilla; savoury oatmeal and macadamia complexity.
Very Good+.
Girlan, Schiava ‘Gschleier Alte Reben ’ 2023
13.5%
450m, steel fermentation, aging in large oak
pale, translucent bright red; fresh, juicy red berries, dried cherries; savoury, adept and structured wither very gentle tannins.
Very Good.
Pfitscher, Pinot Nero ‘Vigna Das Langefeld’ 2021
13.5%
500m, 12m in barriques then 6m in large oak, no filtration
deep translucent red; vegetal with red berries, cherries and cranberries, and complex oaky spice; savoury and structured with very fine tannins. Delicate and elegant.
Very Good Indeed.
Originally published at https://cambridgewineblogger.substack.com on October 17, 2026.
