September’s Here Again
A wine soaked look at what’s to come
This month I am thinking about:
The annual wine grape harvest in the Northern Hemisphere is always exciting. This year, however, while some wine growers are enjoying the best of times — social media reports from Burgundy and the Loire are praising the potential of the 2023 crop, which is great to see—many, many more around the world are trying to avoid the absolute worst of times; facing greatly reduced crops due to frost, dealing with disease (downy mildew, powered mildew, black rot, you name it), worried about the aftermath of wildfires…. Social media accounts allow us to follow various producers and pundits around the world to track the progress and prospects, but remember the final word on the quality of a vintage is based on what’s in the bottle. A rough growing season is no reason to write off an entire region. A great vintage doesn’t mean every bottle produced is stellar. Good producers thrive and manage to weather the weather, whatever the weather, whether they like it or not.
Wine of the Week
Henry of Pelham Speck Family Reserve Cabernet/Merlot 2020
Short Hills Bench, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario $47.95
The Speck Family Reserve label represents the top-of-the-line for family-owned winery in west St. Catharines. This cabernet and merlot blend combines merlot and both cabernet varieties, and includes fruit from plantings dating back to 1988. Fermentation took place in a 5,000 L oak tank, with aging happening in small barrels; the house style usually opts for a mix of American and French oak. The resulting wine is generous and approachable right out of the gate. It brilliantly displays the ripe character of the 2020 vintage in Ontario — not just ripe fruit, but in the polished tannins and juicy acidity—with its structure and rich texture as well as the balance between fruit and acid. (There’s also significantly less oak derived notes on display compared to the wines made in 2012 and 2016, other celebrated “warm” vintages.) This style is built to last, but I’m thinking most bottles are going to be enjoyed in the next few years to take advantage of the vibrant primary and secondary flavours on display. Drink now-2033. (93/100)
Grape Days Ahead
September 8 | National Chianti Day Normally celebrated on the first Friday of September. #ChiantiDay
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September 10 | National Port Wine Day #PortWineDay
September 15 | International Always held on the third Friday of September #GrenacheDay
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