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        <title><![CDATA[Stories by Courtney Sabo on Medium]]></title>
        <description><![CDATA[Stories by Courtney Sabo on Medium]]></description>
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            <title><![CDATA[17 Days in New Zealand]]></title>
            <link>https://medium.com/@courtneysabo/17-days-in-new-zealand-16d911311e54?source=rss-ef0eba6811d9------2</link>
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            <category><![CDATA[vacation]]></category>
            <category><![CDATA[travel]]></category>
            <category><![CDATA[trip]]></category>
            <category><![CDATA[new-zealand]]></category>
            <dc:creator><![CDATA[Courtney Sabo]]></dc:creator>
            <pubDate>Fri, 26 Jan 2018 14:01:04 GMT</pubDate>
            <atom:updated>2018-01-26T14:38:46.225Z</atom:updated>
            <content:encoded><![CDATA[<h4>So much to do, so little time.</h4><p>My boyfriend Jack and I were drawn to New Zealand to escape city life and see the rolling green hills and snow-capped peaks. We recognized that two weeks in New Zealand would be challenging, but we both had limited time off from work. We wanted to see both islands. We were determined. We looked at blogs, news articles, Tripadvisor, and everything we could find, and at the end of our trip, we were quite satisfied with our planning.</p><p><em>Note: We included costs in USD for most activities of our trip.</em></p><h4>Avoiding tourist season</h4><p>We booked our flights ($990/pp for SFO → Auckland and Queenstown → Auckland → SFO) for Nov. 25 – Dec. 10. Peak tourist season falls between late December and end of January. This was perfect timing; during our trip, we did not encounter heavy tourism. The weather was also unseasonably sunny and warm while we were there; this time of year tends to be rainier than we experienced.</p><h4>Planning around a <a href="http://www.doc.govt.nz/parks-and-recreation/things-to-do/walking-and-tramping/great-walks/">Great Walk</a></h4><p>There are 10 Great Walks across New Zealand, and each of these multi-day, lengthier (ranging from 32–145km), and well-maintained hiking trails take you through diverse, stunning scenery. We heard that Milford Track (52.5km), Routeburn (32km), Kepler (60km), and Abel Tasman (60km) were the top recs.</p><p>To secure a spot, you book huts and/or campsites for each night of the walk. You can only do this through the <a href="https://booking.doc.govt.nz/">New Zealand Department of Conservation booking website</a>. When we looked at availability, Routeburn Track was the only Great Walk that had more than one night available, so we chose that one. (There are tons of other hikes that aren’t categorized as a Great Walk; you can hike and stay in over 900 huts, most of which are free.)</p><figure><img alt="" src="https://cdn-images-1.medium.com/max/1024/1*h1H5oB16TKc2RwplSCKz_g.png" /><figcaption>The highlighted days show an example of how you could book. The huts on the left side are in order from the start to finish of the hike, so you book in order. Most Great Walks can be done in reverse, too. In the example shown, the two middle nights are not available. So, check the Great Walk maps to see how far you’ll have to hike between each hut. You don’t need to stay at every hut listed, and by the way, staying at each hut costs money. (We only stayed at the Routeburn Falls Hut and the Lake Howden Hut.)</figcaption></figure><h4>Researching and booking in advance</h4><p>About four months before our trip, we began the rest of our planning by marking all the places that interested us on a custom <a href="https://www.google.com/maps/about/mymaps/">Google Map</a>. We added images for the locations to help jog our memory throughout the planning process.</p><iframe src="https://cdn.embedly.com/widgets/media.html?src=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.google.com%2Fmaps%2Fd%2Fembed%3Fmid%3D1nnyy28Xqpc6vHiMTvpG0ilFADgk%26hl%3Den_US&amp;url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.google.com%2Fmaps%2Fd%2Fviewer%3Fmid%3D1nnyy28Xqpc6vHiMTvpG0ilFADgk%26hl%3Den_US&amp;image=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.google.com%2Fmaps%2Fd%2Fthumbnail%3Fmid%3D1nnyy28Xqpc6vHiMTvpG0ilFADgk%26hl%3Den_US&amp;key=a19fcc184b9711e1b4764040d3dc5c07&amp;type=text%2Fhtml&amp;schema=google" width="600" height="450" frameborder="0" scrolling="no"><a href="https://medium.com/media/9315991acd99d19d6eb8562edc1970ad/href">https://medium.com/media/9315991acd99d19d6eb8562edc1970ad/href</a></iframe><p>We each highlighted the areas we <em>really</em> wanted to visit, and as a solo traveler, this was a great way to discuss compromises. We then put those spots into <a href="https://roadtrippers.com/map?a2=t!19399485&amp;lat=-39.96742265113311&amp;lng=171.65957700077593&amp;utm_campaign=trip&amp;utm_medium=share&amp;utm_source=copy&amp;z=6.200085137160895">Roadtrippers</a> to gauge the travel time to and from each destination. This helped us plan our timeline and book most of our activities in advance. (Since it was near peak tourist season, we wanted to make sure we booked as much as we could to ensure a spot for each activity on the right date.)</p><h4>Debating camper van or rental car</h4><p>Definitely no camper van. Jack nor I wanted to spend 17 days in a tiny space (and we wanted to meet more locals), so we opted to rent a car and stay at Airbnbs along the way. We later met folks who rented camper vans and regretted it due to the high cost of petrol (at roughly $8.10/gallon).</p><p>Most rental car agencies don’t let you rent a car on one island and return it on the other. (The 3-hour Cook Strait ferry takes you to/from Wellington and Picton and is known as one of the most scenic ferry rides in the world, so if you have a camper van, go for it.) We decided to fly across to Christchurch and skip the north part of the south island. We did miss out on a few spots, including Nelson, the West Coast, and Abel Tasman National Park.</p><figure><img alt="" src="https://cdn-images-1.medium.com/max/1024/1*ZoYY3MdNMbcoSumP0kgrCg.jpeg" /><figcaption>The walk to Cathedral Cove lent some pretty beautiful views.</figcaption></figure><h3>Day 1: Hot Water Beach,<strong> </strong>Cathedral Cove, and Otorohanga</h3><p>Jack and I arrived in Auckland at 6:00 a.m. NZDT. We hadn’t planned anything for that day since we figured we’d be exhausted after the 12-hour red-eye. We picked up our rental car from <a href="https://www.rentalcar.co.nz/">About Rentals</a> and excitedly drove three hours to the Coromandel Peninsula.</p><h4>Playing in warm waters at <a href="https://www.google.com/maps/place/Te+Whanganui-A-Hei+Marine+Reserve/@-36.827588,175.7894388,18z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x6d724319b869a4ff:0x2a00ef6166599c50!8m2!3d-36.827535!4d175.7903459?sa=X&amp;ved=0ahUKEwim8cDFk_TYAhVQmeAKHaI_AmAQ8gEIkwEwEQ">Cathedral Cove</a></h4><p>The walk from the parking area to the cove took about 40 minutes. Once we arrived, we saw the jaw-dropping cove. We walked around the cove to a beach area (officially named Te Whanganui-A-Hei Marine Reserve) where we splashed in crystal clear, turquoise water. We swam out to a nearby rock and started a trend of jumping off it.</p><h4>Digging holes at <a href="https://www.google.com/maps/place/Hot+Water+Beach+3591,+New+Zealand/@-36.8832711,175.8030674,13.8z/data=!4m5!3m4!1s0x6d7269d8f73c27cb:0x500ef6143a2cec0!8m2!3d-36.8902497!4d175.8221313">Hot Water Beach</a></h4><p>From 3:00–4:00pm (in November, anyway), hot springs above the beach flow underneath the sand near the ocean. Once you dig into some sand, a natural hot tub reveals itself. (No jacuzzi jets, sorry.) Dozens of people rent shovels on the beach and begin digging. We found holes that others had dug, but after touching our toes in and feeling cold water, someone told us that the water varies in heat day-by-day. We dug another, which was way too hot. We eventually found one that was just right.</p><p><strong>Lunch:</strong> <a href="https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g4007418-d9569933-Reviews-Hotties-Hot_Water_Beach_Coromandel_Peninsula_Waikato_Region_North_Island.html">Hotties</a> (Hot Water Beach) for fish and chips and fish tacos <br><strong>Dinner: </strong><a href="http://www.paradisepizza.co.nz/">Paradise Pizza</a> (Paeroa) for super cheap pizza. Go to nearby bank of Ohinemuri River to hang out and eat.<br><strong>Accommodation: </strong>Otorohanga</p><figure><img alt="" src="https://cdn-images-1.medium.com/max/1024/1*rI1MLUrYB7haocRDuXvlng.jpeg" /><figcaption>Hobbiton, even on a cloudy day, amazes visitors. While no Hobbits reside here, 42 of their homes sit on the grassy green hills.</figcaption></figure><h3>Day 2: Waitomo Caves and Hobbiton</h3><h4>Spelunking to find glowworms in Waitomo Caves</h4><p>From Otorohanga, we drove 30 minutes to Waitomo for our previously booked <a href="https://www.tripadvisor.com/AttractionProductDetail-g616349-d11469501-Glowworm_Caving_Adventure_Tour_in_Waitomo-Waitomo_Caves_Waikato_Region_North_Island.html">glowworm tour</a> ($118/pp). The guides, who started the family-run business, provided us with clothes: hilarious PJ-like underclothes, shorts, fleece jacket, boots, and a headlamp for the cold, wet, and dark caves.</p><figure><img alt="" src="https://cdn-images-1.medium.com/max/1024/1*eU9psZtpUpnXNW1rIQs82g.jpeg" /><figcaption>Some areas of the cave had much larger ceilings than other areas.</figcaption></figure><p>We made our way over rolling green hills and down into the caves, not an activity for claustrophobics. We made our way into a cavern area, about 50m beneath the surface, turned off our headlamps, and gazed up at thousands of glowworms. We heard of other tours that take you on a 45-minute boat ride through other caves, but this experience was clearly better.</p><h4>Finding precious views at Hobbiton</h4><p>Jack nor I are obsessed with <em>The Hobbit</em> or <em>Lord of the Rings</em>, but we saw the movies and figured when in New Zealand, you visit Hobbiton. We booked our 3-hour <a href="https://www.tripadvisor.com/AttractionProductDetail-g255111-d11451305-Lord_of_the_Rings_Hobbiton_Movie_Set_Tour-Rotorua_Rotorua_District_Bay_of_Plenty_Region_North_Island.html">Hobbiton tour</a> ($85/pp) about a month in advance. We didn’t realize until the day of that you can’t actually drive to Hobbiton; your tour includes a bus ride from a nearby town (i.e. Matamata). Our Scottish — and serious Tolkien fan—tour guide educated us about the 42 hobbit holes and the filming of the movies. The tour neared its end with a complimentary beer at the Green Dragon Inn, which was both tasty and delightful.</p><h4>Fooled by “fires” in Rotorua</h4><p>As Jack and I drove into Rotorua that night, we saw a fence on fire; the fence was black on the bottom, and smoke rose from behind it. We drove by later, and it was still on fire! We realized later as we saw more things “on fire” that Rotorua is known for geothermal activity. It was only steam. (Facepalm.)</p><p><strong>Accommodation: </strong>Rotorua lakeside</p><figure><img alt="" src="https://cdn-images-1.medium.com/max/1024/1*0xLSy0gYwMRDsOo9bUhJgw.jpeg" /><figcaption>Visitors at the Whakarewarewa (Living Maori Village) can purchase sweet corn that was boiled in the hot pools.</figcaption></figure><h3>Day 3: Whakarewarewa and Rotorua</h3><p>We ate our breakfast with an awesome view of Lake Rotorua. We didn’t have many plans for the town and heard about a nearby Maori village offering on-site tour bookings.</p><h4>Going back in time at <a href="https://www.google.com/maps/place/Whakarewarewa+-+The+Living+Maori+Village/@-38.161131,176.256495,15z/data=!4m5!3m4!1s0x0:0x93ecd87e0a8cf8d7!8m2!3d-38.161131!4d176.256495">Whakarewarewa</a></h4><p>Pronounced “Fah-kah-ree-wah-ree-wah,” the <a href="https://www.whakarewarewa.com/">Whakarewarewa Village</a> is a 300-year old village built on top of geothermal springs. Also known as the Living Maori Village, 60 resident natives live here and use the bubbling hot pools for cooking and bathing. We watched the Maoris perform dances including the Haka, an intimidation chant used before battle and now a ritual completed by the All Blacks before their games. Behind the village, we walked 20 minutes throughout the small valley containing blue pools and boiling mud pools, where they used to lay the dead to rest.</p><h4>Hiking through the redwoods of the <a href="https://www.google.com/maps/place/Whakarewarewa+Forest/@-38.1930237,176.3126673,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x6d6e9e97daf65ebd:0xf00ef62249d40a0!8m2!3d-38.1930237!4d176.314856">Whakarewarewa Forest</a></h4><p>We drove 15 minutes to the Whakarewarewa Forest, where we walked the Pohaturoa track (7.5km, 2 hours round trip) to view the Maori village from a higher elevation. In New Zealand, hikes take as long as (or sometimes, even longer than) the given time. The Pohatura track takes two hours; it took us over three. We literally ran the rest of our hike to make it to Ogo before their closing time.</p><figure><img alt="" src="https://cdn-images-1.medium.com/max/1024/1*Bf4WOfvz7ErHL1TBaqwIfQ.jpeg" /></figure><h4>Zorbing at <a href="https://www.google.com/maps/place/OGO+Rotorua/@-38.1050368,176.2179833,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x6d6c27c959e82781:0x64011ae2dda00053!8m2!3d-38.105041!4d176.220172">Ogo</a></h4><p>Zorbing is a New Zealand creation involving you (and a friend, if you desire) in a giant ball filled with warm water that rolls down a hill. Two companies fight for customers: Zorb and Ogo. While Zorb came first, the founder actually started Ogo, too.</p><p>Hot tubs at the bottom and top of the runs helped us get warm in the chilly, 60ºF weather. We dove inside our ball, were zipped inside, and started rolling. We did both runs — the straight and the curvy — and ended up purchasing the footage from our Ogo-provided GoPro, too.</p><p><strong>Dinner: </strong>Splurged on <a href="http://atticusfinch.co.nz/">Atticus Finch</a> (Rotorua) for healthy, shareable plates. Reserve a table online or via phone; otherwise you’ll have to wait ~30 minutes at dinner time. <br><strong>Accommodation: </strong>Rotorua lakeside</p><figure><img alt="" src="https://cdn-images-1.medium.com/max/1024/1*YagLJSDRX78oe7D44R9Ucg.jpeg" /></figure><h3>Day 4: Tongariro and Foxton Beach</h3><p>We woke up and checked the weather for that day’s hike at Tongariro Crossing. It was predicted to thunderstorm and hail all day. We decided to go anyway.</p><h4>Not seeing anything in Tongariro in November</h4><p>The weather was misty and gray when we arrived at the Tongariro trailhead. We thought, “Wow, this is going to be a fitting scene for a glimpse of Mount Doom.” The dense greenery protected us from the rain as we made our way up dozens of sets of stairs until we found ourselves on an uncovered hill with a non-stop slight incline.</p><figure><img alt="" src="https://cdn-images-1.medium.com/max/1024/1*z4DMEcTwxyeslYeVBUAKZA.jpeg" /><figcaption>We were sure beautiful Tongariro views were somewhere out there.</figcaption></figure><p>We had walked for ~90 minutes, it was still misty and windy, and we could only see 30m away. We had hit our first day of subpar weather; we had been blessed with sunny, hot days until then. Hikers walked from the other direction and told us they hadn’t been able to see, either. We thought, “Do we give up now?” We had made it over halfway to the peak. We decided to err on the side of saving our day and see something else, so we turned around to go back to our car. In hindsight, it was the right move.</p><h4>Chasing sunsets at Foxton Beach</h4><p>We made it to Foxton beach after a four-hour drive through rainy and then yes!—sunny weather. Foxton is a thriving metropolis with a population of 2,000 people. We stopped at the only non-residential place we saw, a convenient store that happened to sell ice cream. We bought a scoop of Hokey Pokey: vanilla ice-cream with crunchy bits of honeycomb. While everywhere else in New Zealand accepted credit cards, this place did not.</p><p>Our Airbnb host recommended heading to the beach for sunset, so we took his word and walked three minutes to our destination. We took dozens of photos that night and finally enjoyed some relaxation time after a few eventful days.</p><p><strong>Dinner: </strong><a href="https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g255368-d12266312-Reviews-Kapadokya-Palmerston_North_Manawatu_Wanganui_Region_North_Island.html">Kapadokya</a> (Palmerston North) for kebabs and falafel <br><strong>Accommodation: </strong>Foxton Beach</p><figure><img alt="" src="https://cdn-images-1.medium.com/max/1024/1*UFvpJZUUS3DxLmOlCIAMtg.jpeg" /><figcaption>Lupins line the lakeside of Tekapo during November and December.</figcaption></figure><h3><strong>Day 5: Wellington, Christchurch, and Lake Tekapo</strong></h3><p>We woke up at 5:45am in our Foxton accommodation and grabbed our stuff to head to Wellington. We hit Wellington rush hour traffic (which was the only time we encountered real traffic in New Zealand) and zoomed to return our car before heading to the airport. Luckily, the Wellington airport doesn’t have security, which we found fascinating and convenient.</p><figure><img alt="" src="https://cdn-images-1.medium.com/max/1024/1*dRool1K7U2FpmAbhmkiuuQ.jpeg" /><figcaption>We chowed down at Black Betty’s and loved the quirky vibe. (Note the table filled with love notes, poems, and trinkets.)</figcaption></figure><h4>Chowing down in Christchurch</h4><p>We made it to Christchurch, grabbed our next rental car from About Rentals, and headed to a much-needed brunch in the city before embarking on our 3-hour car ride.</p><h4>Finally finding the lupins of Lake Tekapo</h4><p>As we neared Lake Tekapo, we realized why we had had such a hard time booking a space near the town — there wasn’t much around! Lake Tekapo was home to <a href="http://e to relatively few houses and">relatively few houses and shops</a>.</p><p>We also realized this place is incredible. The crystal clear, blue glacial lake looks unreal. Lake Tekapo was #1 on my list because lupins, a purple flower that’s actually an invasive (but beautiful) species, bloom in New Zealand during November and December. Jack and I attempted a dip in the lake, and it was chilly. “Chilly” … meaning it made our feet go numb.</p><figure><img alt="" src="https://cdn-images-1.medium.com/max/1024/1*tyu6VDd2T8UNuQlo1FdyMw.jpeg" /><figcaption>A quick dip in Lake Tekapo left my feet feeling frozen but my sense of accomplishment quite high.</figcaption></figure><p><strong>Brunch: </strong><a href="http://blackbetty.co.nz/breakfast-menu/">Black Betty’s</a> avocado smash toast and waffles with maple ice cream <br><strong>Accommodation: </strong>Twizel (~1 hour drive from Tekapo and Pukaki)</p><figure><img alt="" src="https://cdn-images-1.medium.com/max/1024/1*vZb6-0JF6G0eXNgVq4ydGQ.jpeg" /><figcaption>Hooker Valley Track at Aoraki Mt. Cook National Park.</figcaption></figure><h3><strong>Day 6:</strong> Hooker Valley Track and Mount John Observatory</h3><p>Jack and I woke up early and drove an hour to Lake Pukaki.</p><h4>Wobbling over swingbridges at Hooker Valley Track</h4><p>Multiple people had recommended the Hooker Valley Track (10km, 3 hours round trip). The track took us through uncovered and relatively flat land, and it was hot that day. (Pro tip: Always have a bottle of water with you.)</p><p>While wooden boardwalks covered much of the trail, we did cross a number of swingbridges. Swingbridges are exactly what they sound like — bridges that swing with any amount of weight. It was nerve-wracking and a little bit exciting, but that was enough of those.</p><figure><img alt="" src="https://cdn-images-1.medium.com/max/1024/1*tXAfQWJg4JWqU7_JQa268Q.jpeg" /><figcaption>Like most other hikes in New Zealand, the Hooker Valley Track was well-maintained.</figcaption></figure><h4>Observing from the observatory</h4><p>After finishing our hike, we drove to the <a href="https://www.google.com/maps/place/University+of+Canterbury+Mt+John+Observatory/@-43.9852537,170.4641473,15z/data=!4m5!3m4!1s0x0:0x7145019a25a6a78b!8m2!3d-43.9852537!4d170.4641473?sa=X&amp;ved=0ahUKEwifkZLSluPYAhVG7GMKHduoBNEQ_BIIowEwCg">University of Canterbury Mount John Observatory</a>, which sits at the top of Lake Tekapo. The road was one-lane and incredibly windy, so catch up on your driving skills before you go! The observatory closes at 5:30pm, so we made the most of our 30 minutes at the top. Again, lupins covered the land around us, and ginormous clouds rolled over the mountains.</p><figure><img alt="" src="https://cdn-images-1.medium.com/max/1024/1*amY3Gu4GcMFGEkn3N-GQKg.jpeg" /><figcaption>Look at the size of those clouds over Lake Tekapo!</figcaption></figure><p><strong>Dinner: </strong><a href="https://www.tekapotinplate.com/">Tin Plate</a> for chicken caesar salad pizza and gelato<br><strong>Accommodation: </strong>Twizel</p><figure><img alt="" src="https://cdn-images-1.medium.com/max/1024/1*lKdg9UqbVx5XG-uh1YuH5A.jpeg" /><figcaption>The itsy bitsy ski lodge sat on top the mountain. Down came the helicopter and dropped the skiers off…</figcaption></figure><h3><strong>Day 7:</strong> Aoraki Mount Cook National Park</h3><h4>Flying like Gandalf over the Tasman Glacier</h4><p>We booked our Glacier Highlights scenic 45-minute helicopter tour ($370/pp) with <a href="https://www.mtcookskiplanes.com/">Mount Cook Ski Planes and Helicopters</a>, which had decent availability for only booking a day in advance. We paid significantly more for this activity compared to any others that we did, but it was worth it. For all you skiers: you can hire these planes to take you up to ski on the glaciers. Crazy, I know.</p><figure><img alt="" src="https://cdn-images-1.medium.com/max/1024/1*Rl7SnAdy0tk1fr6jm-zpmg.jpeg" /><figcaption>Helicopters land on the Tasman Glacier for photo opportunities, along with a chance to ski for those willing to pay.</figcaption></figure><p>We took off around 8:15 a.m. since morning light tends to present better landscape photos. (Dusk lighting is also great, but tours weren’t offered for that time.) The captain flew us over the Tasman Glacier and landed at the top so we could throw some snowballs at each other and take photographs. On our return flight, we saw Mount Cook, New Zealand’s tallest mountain at 12,000 feet.</p><figure><img alt="" src="https://cdn-images-1.medium.com/max/1024/1*CsgPT4OLjoBIAXozfKUVTQ.jpeg" /><figcaption>You get quite a view from the Old Mountaineer’s Lodge.</figcaption></figure><h4>Hanging out in Aoraki Mount Cook National Park</h4><p>After landing, we drove over to the DOC parking area and walked the short trip to Kea Point (2.8km, 1 hour round trip). We got back and needed to kill some time. The areas are beautiful, but there’s not much to do besides hiking. We hung out at the <a href="https://www.google.com/maps/place/The+Old+Mountaineer&#39;s+Cafe/@-43.733275,170.095739,15z/data=!4m5!3m4!1s0x0:0xd9befb6f2ccfdbb1!8m2!3d-43.733275!4d170.095739?sa=X&amp;ved=0ahUKEwiKpPCj1vTYAhUFhuAKHWBIBCgQ_BIIiAEwDg">Old Mountaineers’ Cafe, Bar and Restaurant</a>. While we weren’t intrigued by the expensive food, we did take advantage of a decent cell signal to catch up with friends and family. You don’t need to eat there to hang out there, either.</p><h4>Eating the local food</h4><p>Our Airbnb host mentioned he worked as a salmon farmer at a nearby man-made channel created from the lakes. We found <a href="https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attraction_Review-g612499-d2478104-Reviews-Mt_Cook_Alpine_Salmon_Shop-Twizel_Mackenzie_District_Canterbury_Region_South_Isla.html">Mt. Cook Alpine Salmon Shop</a>, near Lake Pukaki and picked up two salmon fillets for dinner, along with some veggies from a nearby Four Square (which is the main grocery store, along with Countdown, throughout New Zealand).</p><p><strong>Accommodation: </strong>Twizel</p><figure><img alt="" src="https://cdn-images-1.medium.com/max/1024/1*awY6cjGY7zyN5MfzooLN3Q.jpeg" /><figcaption>The hike up Roy’s Peak was tough; the local sheep must have a hard time roaming these hills.</figcaption></figure><h3><strong>Day 8: Wanaka</strong></h3><h4>Peaking sunshine at Roy’s Peak</h4><p>We arrived in Wanaka around noon, the perfect time for a the Roy’s Peak hike in sunny 85º weather. (<em>Kidding. </em>Avoid peak sun hours if you can.) We zigzagged through switchbacks in a relentless incline to the 1,200m peak. This hike was more mentally and physically challenging than being down 16–17 in a squash match tied at 2–2. (Any squash players out there?) It was brutal. But, we made it to the top after some crankiness and were enlightened with amazing views of the lake and hills. Needless to say, the hike down felt much easier than the way up.</p><figure><img alt="" src="https://cdn-images-1.medium.com/max/1024/1*zSGJadOTXIZjDwCvzsWdnQ.jpeg" /><figcaption>Jack and I were much happier after reaching Roy’s Peak.</figcaption></figure><h4>When in Wanaka, visit <a href="https://www.google.com/maps/place/That+Wanaka+Tree+(%23thatwanakatree)/@-44.6443133,168.765047,10.17z/data=!4m8!1m2!2m1!1sWanaka+Tree!3m4!1s0x0:0x394008aedefe80b4!8m2!3d-44.6998977!4d169.1194153">#ThatWanakaTree</a>.</h4><p>This infamous tree grows alone in Lake Wanaka. You’ll find it by starting at the town area and moving west along the lake to find dozens of people photographing it. For the best photos, go at sunrise when the water is calm, or go at sunset with takeaway (not “takeout”) from a restaurant downtown.</p><figure><img alt="" src="https://cdn-images-1.medium.com/max/1024/1*173_LY2Ej0BDnMkdcJ_l0Q.jpeg" /></figure><p><strong>Dinner:</strong> Big Fig <br><strong>Accommodation:</strong> Lake Hawea (~15 minutes from Wanaka)</p><figure><img alt="" src="https://cdn-images-1.medium.com/max/1024/1*iUBrwZdTS9r1nAQ4V9UyNw.jpeg" /><figcaption>Fergburgers and some of the best french fries I’ve ever had ... before getting kicked out of this seating area outside Patagonia Chocolates. (Whoops.)</figcaption></figure><h3><strong>Day 9: Wanaka and Queenstown</strong></h3><h4>Shopping ’til we drop</h4><p>In the morning, we stopped by shops in Wanaka to buy Christmas presents. We avoided some of the typical tourist shops and found quirky gifts at <a href="https://www.google.com/maps/place/Wonder+Room/@-44.6937302,169.1346003,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0xa9d54f44446546ad:0x95254c1fc9410db8!8m2!3d-44.693734!4d169.136789">Wonder Room</a>.</p><p>We ventured to Queenstown and continued our shopping spree. Queenstown is a small city; you can easily walk through most of it in an hour. We found handmade pottery and jewelry (amongst many other items) at <a href="https://www.google.com/maps/place/Vesta+Design+Store/@-45.0334656,168.6594474,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0xa9d51d86d9db9a41:0xac33fd72050b3b61!8m2!3d-45.0334694!4d168.6616414">Vesta Design Store</a> and punny, New Zealand themed t-shirts at <a href="https://www.google.com/maps/place/Global+Culture/@-45.0319148,168.6597149,17.64z/data=!4m5!3m4!1s0xa9d51d83fd41adaf:0x94e70360f3233d8c!8m2!3d-45.031267!4d168.6609402">Global Culture</a>.</p><p>Each Saturday at Earnslaw Park, two dozen local artists come together at the <a href="http://www.queenstownmarket.com/">Queenstown Market</a>. The items differ from paintings to mugs to wooden bowls to photography. If you buy unframed art, head to a bookstore for a small tube so it doesn’t get damaged throughout your travels.</p><p><strong>Dinner: </strong>Fergburger for Mr. Big Stuff and Tropical Swine burgers <strong><br>Accommodation:</strong> Frankton (~15 minutes from Queenstown) <a href="https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/10292453">in the best Airbnb of the trip</a></p><figure><img alt="" src="https://cdn-images-1.medium.com/max/1024/1*8txlqoB1l1OqJg0XFehf-A.jpeg" /><figcaption>Day 1 was pretty easy and had great lunch views at Routeburn Flats.</figcaption></figure><h3>Day 10: Routeburn Day #1</h3><h4>Getting to the trailhead</h4><p>Routeburn is challenging to plan because you start and end the hike in two different places, a drive that takes four hours. We decided to leave our car at the Queenstown Gardens and booked a <a href="http://tracknet.net/timetables-prices/">Tracknet bus</a> for Queenstown → Routeburn, The Divide (end of Routeburn) → Milford Sound, and Milford Sound → Queenstown. We ended up calling them to book because their site was a bit overwhelming. We added in a boat tour of Milford Sound, which brought the total to $145/pp. Alternatively, we heard of runners who you pay to drive your car from the start to end of the trail for a similar price. No matter what, planning ahead is key here; there is no cell service within an hour of each end of the Routeburn Trail.</p><h4>Limiting our packing and feel good about it</h4><p>Besides some changes of clothes and sleeping bags, we brought peanut butter and jelly sandwiches for our lunches and Cup Noodles for our dinners. We made friends with someone who lent us a match and a saucepan. (The huts provide cold running water.)</p><h4>Taking our time</h4><p>We discovered that the “Great Walks” are just that – they are more walks than hikes. That means we could leisurely walk through the woods and stop to photograph the area; we only walked four hours our first day.</p><p><strong>Breakfast:</strong> Fergbaker for a breakfast wrap <br><strong>Lunch:</strong> PB&amp;J on Vogel’s Fruit &amp; Spice Bread (seriously try it when in New Zealand), trail mix, and an apple <br><strong>Dinner:</strong> Cup Noodles</p><figure><img alt="" src="https://cdn-images-1.medium.com/max/1024/1*qFMXjbgprS3-_Nfo96TQ4A.jpeg" /><figcaption>From Key Summit (Routeburn Trail), we saw all-around views of the Humboldt and Darran Mountains.</figcaption></figure><h3>Day 11: Routeburn Day #2</h3><p>We departed Routeburn Falls hut at 7:30am and started our 20km journey to Howden Hut. After an hour of incline in the morning sun, we reached Harris Saddle, and from there, it was all downhill (in a good way). It was now early December, and while the chilly winds blew, it was sunny enough to need only a light jacket and pants. Since it was a long hike and we fortunately had Airpods with us, we listened to the <a href="https://www.npr.org/podcasts/510313/how-i-built-this">How I Built This</a> podcast to pass time. (We highly recommend if you’ve never listened to it.)</p><h4>Walking, walking, and more walking</h4><p>We reached the Mackenzie Hut at noon and enjoyed our day-old but still delicious PB&amp;J by the turquoise waters and then continued on our journey. We shockingly weren’t too tired and enjoyed surprises along the way, including an insanely perfect waterfall and swimming pool. We didn’t bring swimsuits and regretted it. We trekked on to Howden Hut and made it there within a few hours. The ease of this all made us realize why they’re called Great <em>Walks</em>, not Great <em>Hikes</em>.</p><h4>Embracing the sunshine on Key Summit</h4><p>Jack and I already hiked about 8 hours that day, but because the sun still shined, we left our things at Howden Hut and climbed up to Key Summit, where you get a 360º view of the mountains around you. The view shocked us; we could see where we hiked from and had a sense of the huge glaciers that once covered the land.</p><p><strong>Lunch:</strong> PB&amp;J, trail mix, and an apple <br><strong>Dinner:</strong> Cup Noodles</p><figure><img alt="" src="https://cdn-images-1.medium.com/max/1024/1*t5L_0yUVHpg-nBkOlSGv4Q.jpeg" /><figcaption>Milford Valley is quite ominous on a rainy, dreary day.</figcaption></figure><h3>Day 12: Routeburn Day #3</h3><p>We woke up to rain pelting the hut roof and were relieved we hiked Key Summit the prior day. Within an hour, we made it out of the eery, moss-covered forest. While waiting for our Tracknet bus, we <em>finally</em> saw a Kea, a native New Zealand parrot that danced on a nearby bench.</p><h4>Almost seeing Milford Sound</h4><p>Our driver arrived early, and we made our way to Milford Sound. As we passed through giant mountains, we looked up through the mist to gaze at the waterfalls.</p><p>We made our way through the Homer Tunnel and towards Milford Sound, where it was still raining and visibility was pretty low. We hopped on our Mitre Peak tour boat, and while we couldn’t really see the beautiful green colors and pristine blue water, we did see the eery <a href="https://youtu.be/Pyy_FIYE7EE?">misty mountains</a>. These mountains were created by an glacier from the Ice Age that was 1,500m thick, and their sides are incredibly steep. We boated up to the waterfalls to see them up close, admiring the millions of mussels lined against the rocks at water level. Although it was still a great experience, we recommend taking a tour company besides Mitre Peak Cruises; the tour guides were not especially passionate and didn’t offer much information.</p><p><strong>Dinner:</strong> <a href="https://www.google.com/maps/place/Atlas+Beer+Cafe/@-45.033429,168.657332,15z/data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x0:0x7bc49d5c5de17e9b?sa=X&amp;ved=0ahUKEwi9p8eg2_TYAhURNd8KHdTiBoYQ_BIIhQEwCg">Atlas Beer Cafe</a> for steak and veggie tacos <br><strong>Dessert:</strong> <a href="https://www.google.com/maps/place/Patagonia+Chocolates/@-45.0327324,168.6591411,17.2z/data=!4m12!1m6!3m5!1s0x0:0x1bf1dce40559189e!2sPatagonia+Chocolates!8m2!3d-45.0326018!4d168.6591747!3m4!1s0x0:0x1bf1dce40559189e!8m2!3d-45.0326018!4d168.6591747">Patagonia Chocolates</a> for dark chocolate hazelnut ice cream</p><figure><img alt="" src="https://cdn-images-1.medium.com/max/1024/1*-dpBIb4oowmO3We_fR172Q.jpeg" /></figure><h3>Day 13: Wanaka</h3><p>Our plans were a bit scattered because we needed to fit Routeburn in on specific dates, so we went back to Wanaka for a second time. Luckily, Wanaka is only one hour away from Queenstown.</p><h4>Kayaking on the Clutha River</h4><p>Jack loves kayaking. I don’t. The water itself was quite beautiful; at even 30m deep, we could see the bottom of the river. However, that day, a dam released 250 tons of water to help bring up river water levels from the recent dry spell. Needless to say, water moved too quick for my comfort levels. (I ended up tipping, too.)</p><p>Our guide stopped our small group for a picnic on the riverside with tea and brownies and gave us a brief history of New Zealand, teaching us about giant Haast eagles and cannibalism that happened only 400–500 years ago. Overall, Jack had a great time. I enjoyed the picnic.</p><p><strong>Dinner:</strong> <a href="https://www.google.com/maps/place/Burrito+Craft/@-44.6955987,169.1363509,15.51z/data=!4m5!3m4!1s0x0:0xa0eea35684ace748!8m2!3d-44.6961841!4d169.1369432">Burrito Craft</a> in food truck area</p><figure><img alt="" src="https://cdn-images-1.medium.com/max/1024/1*3oVp9oK4SyFhQS8B5hEd-A.jpeg" /></figure><h3>Day 14: Wanaka</h3><h4><strong>Skydiving from 12,000 feet</strong></h4><p>We arrived at <a href="https://www.skydivewanaka.com/">Skydive Wanaka</a> ($256/pp) around 10am. Recently, a larger Australian business acquired Skydive Wanaka, and it definitely felt like a business. People in, people out. The front staff really pushed the video packages (from $145-$245/pp), and we politely declined multiple times. We agreed to spend that money on something better and to be each other’s witnesses.</p><p>Our pilot took us up into the perfect blue, cloudless sky. The tandem jumpers jump 5–10 times a day, so we felt pretty good about the situation. My tandem jumper led me to the side of the plane, and without a chance to say “Don’t jump!” we were already falling. She pointed out landmarks in the beautiful scenery — we could see everywhere from Lake Wanaka to Mount Cook. The whole process took less than an hour.</p><h4>Being a kid at the Toy Museum and Puzzling World</h4><p>We headed next to the nearby Toy Museum shop, which had lots of unique toys to purchase. We decided to skip the museum portion ($14/pp) and go to <a href="https://www.google.com/maps/place/Puzzling+World/@-44.696992,169.1595093,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0xa9d54f268575edf9:0xfa66441c199b7fcf!8m2!3d-44.696992!4d169.161698%20?">Puzzling World</a> ($17/pp), where we were illuminated with puzzles, various kinds of optical illusions, and an outdoors maze.</p><h4>More shopping for handmade goods</h4><p>Back in town, we found the <a href="https://www.wanakaartisanmarket.co.nz/">Wanaka Artisan Market</a>, held every Thursday from 3–6 p.m. New Zealand’s art scene is quite good; the mountain and lake scenery influence everything from mugs to illustrations.</p><p><strong>Lunch.</strong> <a href="https://www.google.com/maps/place/The+Bakery+Wanaka/@-44.6953938,169.1342244,15z/data=!4m5!3m4!1s0x0:0x41ad072230858c1d!8m2!3d-44.6953938!4d169.1342244?sa=X&amp;ved=0ahUKEwjlku2arfPYAhWmS98KHepuBtwQ_BIIhwEwCg">Doughbin</a> for award-winning veggie pot pie <br><strong>Dinner. </strong><a href="https://www.google.com/maps/place/Big+Fig/@-44.694971,169.1330851,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0xa9d54f45064b7cf7:0xb6d1d633c2f78bf5!8m2!3d-44.6949748!4d169.1352738">Big Fig</a> for everything</p><figure><img alt="" src="https://cdn-images-1.medium.com/max/1024/1*i-BNQmfOnNl9RPDoeZTBgg.jpeg" /></figure><h3>Day 15: Blue Pools Walk and Queenstown</h3><h4>Avoiding sand flies at Blue Pools Walk</h4><p>We backtracked on our trip to Queenstown and visited the Blue Pools Walk. The walk itself took ~15 minutes to reach the pools. A few brave souls jumped off the main bridge into the freezing water beneath it while we tried our best not to get eaten alive by the sand flies. (Seriously, bring bug spray if you go here.) The pools were lovely, but there wasn’t much to do here besides snap a few photos. We only spent 20 minutes here before heading back and driving to Queenstown.</p><h4>Looking like absolute fools at the Skyline Luge</h4><p>We felt a light drizzle and weren’t sure what to do with our time; we had seen much of Queenstown already. After many recommendations for the <a href="https://www.skyline.co.nz/en/queenstown/things-to-do/skyline-luge-queenstown">Skyline Luge</a>, we bought tickets for 5 luge runs at <a href="https://www.google.com/maps/place/The+Station+Information+and+Booking+Centre/@-45.0311299,168.6605326,17.88z/data=!4m8!1m2!2m1!1stour+booking+queenstown!3m4!1s0x0:0x31259b007d2684b9!8m2!3d-45.0307929!4d168.660319">The Station Information and Booking Centre</a>. Here, you can purchase tickets for nearly every activity in New Zealand. We rode the gondola up to the base of the track, hopped on our luges for run #1, and zoomed down the track. You can go as fast or as slow as you’d like, but Jack and I clearly raced. (He won best of 5, of course.) We even purchased three photos for $20US before leaving.</p><figure><img alt="" src="https://cdn-images-1.medium.com/max/1024/1*bIChVxfZ88gknOX1DM9g8A.jpeg" /><figcaption>No wonder you can’t take your own car; the AJ Hackett bus bumped and chugged along the tiny, windy roads up to the Kawarau Bungy Centre.</figcaption></figure><h3>Day 16: Queenstown</h3><h4>Letting the swings drop</h4><p>In the adventure capital of the world, we wanted more adventure. We booked tickets for the <a href="https://www.bungy.co.nz/queenstown/nevis/nevis-swing/">Nevis Swing</a> the day before and headed to our bus pickup for our 90-minute journey to the gorge, where we’d be jumping. The gravel road up was steep and windy, requiring four-wheel drive for our bus. At the top, the employees attached our harnesses and sent us to the suspension bridge. (Dare I say there was a lot of suspension on that suspension bridge?)</p><figure><img alt="" src="https://cdn-images-1.medium.com/max/1024/1*fJbIOK5OM9jpL9yUT7plCg.jpeg" /></figure><p>Only one jump happens at a time, and since we were swinging together, we asked someone else to take a video of us on our phone. For a more frightening experience, hang upside down so you can see the gorge nearing you as you fall. That’s what we did, and we’re still alive.</p><h4>Eating way too much sugar</h4><p>We had seen Cookie Time cookies on airplanes and in gift shops, so we visited their store in Queenstown. They sell cookies (obviously), along with scoops of cookie dough, ice cream, milkshakes, and every sweet concoction you can imagine. We entered our email addresses on an iPad in the front of their store for a chance to win something, and we got both a free cookie and a free cookie milkshake. Free stuff for the win!</p><h4>Kind of playing disc golf</h4><p>Although it was raining, we wanted to be outside to work off all the sugar we consumed and headed to the Queenstown Gardens to play disc golf. You can rent frisbees from the nearby ice rink, but we didn’t know that at the time. We played stick golf instead. Basically, we threw sticks at the holes until we hit the chains. (Tips: Don’t forget to remove the sticks, and don’t play this while people play disc golf.)</p><h4>Onsen Hot Pools</h4><p>Jack and I are not luxurious people by any means. About 6 weeks before our trip, we came across the <a href="http://www.onsen.co.nz/">Onsen Hot Pools</a> online. It looked epic, and we decided to book “The Ultimate Relaxation Experience” ($159/pp) at 7:00p.m. for our last night in Queenstown. The evening included an hour in the hot pool with champagne, chocolates, and an incredible view of the Shotover River, followed by an hour massage and then an hour relaxation with chocolates, cake, and tea. We felt like royalty.</p><figure><img alt="" src="https://cdn-images-1.medium.com/max/1024/1*lpGSGLRNGYUdAmdKwMZNmQ.jpeg" /><figcaption>We spent our last night in Queenstown at the lovely Onsen Hot Pools.</figcaption></figure><p><strong>Breakfast: </strong>Fergbaker for Boston Creme Donut <br><strong>Dinner: </strong>Fergberger (again; we couldn’t resist)</p><figure><img alt="" src="https://cdn-images-1.medium.com/max/1024/1*h-czdS2G_FcPjYo6JpFObg.jpeg" /><figcaption>Pay $10 for a ticket down to the Underwater Observatory to feed the hundreds of trout and a few eels.</figcaption></figure><h3>Day 17: Queenstown</h3><h4>Spending our last few hours in Kiwi land</h4><p>Our flight didn’t depart until 2:30pm, so we took a stroll downtown. At the <a href="https://www.google.com/maps/place/KJet+Queenstown/@-45.032897,168.659929,15z/data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x0:0xbab8b456d32be930?sa=X&amp;ved=0ahUKEwi519mt3_TYAhVMNd8KHQh6CqgQ_BIIhwEwDg">Underwater Observatory at KJet</a> ($8/pp), we watched little kids feed rainbow trout, brown trout, and eels swimming in the Queenstown Bay. We wandered around town, bought sandwiches at Fergbaker, dropped off our car, and hopped on our flight, gazing out the window at our last views of New Zealand.</p><h3>TL;DR:</h3><h4>Day-by-day highlights</h4><p><strong>Day 1:</strong> Coromandel Cove, Hot Water Beach <br><strong>Day 2:</strong> Waitomo Caves and Hobbiton <br><strong>Day 3:</strong> Living Maori Village, Redwoods, OGO Zorbing (Rotorua) <br><strong>Day 4: </strong>Tongaririo Crossing, Foxton Beach <br><strong>Day 5: </strong>Wellington → Christchurch, drove to Lake Tekapo<br><strong>Day 6: </strong>Hooker Valley Track (Aoraki Mt. Cook National Park) <br><strong>Day 7:</strong> Helicopter ride over Tasman Glacier (Aoraki Mt. Cook National Park) <br><strong>Day 8:</strong> Roy’s Peak and Wanaka Tree (Wanaka) <br><strong>Day 9:</strong> Queenstown <br><strong>Day 10:</strong> Routeburn (stayed at Routeburn Falls Hut) <br><strong>Day 11:</strong> Routeburn with Key Summit addition (stayed at Howden Hut)<br><strong>Day 12:</strong> Ended Routeburn, saw Milford Sound, and returned to Queenstown<br><strong>Day 13:</strong> Kayaking the Clutha River (Wanaka)<br><strong>Day 14: </strong>Skydiving and Puzzling World (Wanaka) <br><strong>Day 15: </strong>Blue Pools Walk (Wanaka) and Skyline Luge (Queenstown) <br><strong>Day 16: </strong>Nevis Swing and Onsen Hot Pools (Queenstown) <br><strong>Day 17: </strong>Underwater Observatory</p><h4>If we could have stayed longer, we would have explored:</h4><ul><li>Ninety Mile Beach</li><li>Wellington (maybe one full day)</li><li>Abel Tasman National Park</li><li>Arthur’s Pass</li><li>Milford Sound on a sunny day</li><li>Stewart Island</li></ul><h4>Pro tips</h4><ul><li>Renting a camper van can be more expensive than staying in hostels and renting a car due to the price of petrol in New Zealand.</li><li>Be careful driving. A lot of tourists crash because 1. the roads are windy, 2. you drive on the left side, and 3. the roads aren’t well lit at night.</li><li>Look into other walks/hikes that aren’t a “Great Walk.” There are about 1,000 huts in NZ — most are free. Typically, you bring a sleeping bag, and if there’s room, you get a bunk. If not, you sleep on the floor. (Not bad.) You have to pay for every Great Walk.</li><li>Use bug spray and sunscreen. Sand flies bite you endlessly near water, and the sun is strong here.</li><li>Be smart, but relax and know that New Zealand is a pretty safe place. People are very nice and welcoming.</li><li>Don’t take out a ton of NZD. We took out $100NZD at the airport, and that’s all the cash we needed throughout our trip.</li></ul><h4><strong>Fun facts</strong></h4><ul><li>There are no predators in New Zealand. The only animals that came here naturally were birds and fish; humans introduced all other animals, including those 30 million sheep. There are also 40 million possums.</li><li>Great Walks were the routes explored by Maori people to search for greenstone and other precious materials.</li><li>You can drink from most rivers, streams, and definitely waterfalls.</li><li>Most houses don’t have window screens, so be prepared to encounter some bugs.</li></ul><p><a href="https://imgur.com/r/highqualitygifs/IlJq1c9">Going on an adventure</a> far away can seem challenging whether you’re a planner or not. New Zealand is a huge area with diverse climates and environments; if you have a short amount of time to go on holiday, try to plan out major places you’d like to go and be flexible with the rest.</p><img src="https://medium.com/_/stat?event=post.clientViewed&referrerSource=full_rss&postId=16d911311e54" width="1" height="1" alt="">]]></content:encoded>
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