We take a long overnight flight from Kuala Lumpur and arrive mid-morning to begin our four-day journey in the capital of Victoria, Melbourne. By the time we reach our Airbnb and shake off the jetlag, we only have time to explore the central business district, buy some camping equipment and devour fresh sushi before the day ends.

Over the next couple of days, we spend time enjoying the rest of the metropolitan area by visiting the Melbourne Cricket Ground, St. Kilda Pier and beach, and the National Gallery of Victoria. Melbourne is referred to as Australia’s “cultural capital” and we see first-hand why — it’s an extremely fun and livable city with a lot to offer for visitors and locals alike.

Unquestionably, the highlight of our time in Melbourne is our day-long wine tour to Yarra Valley with Dancing Kangaroo Tours. Although the wine tour is at the expense of watching the Super Bowl, I am happy to report that it blows away our expectations. Our guide is fun, energetic, knowledgeable, and gives us a great experience while visiting three boutique wineries, a brewery, a chocolatier, and a cheese shop. If you ever plan on visiting Melbourne, we would highly recommend a Yarra Valley wine tour and to book with this company!

The next morning, we take an early flight to the city of Hobart (which we learn via local radio is “the best city in the world”) on the small island state of Tasmania. We pick up a rental car and head straight to a ferry port where we can reach an even tinier island off the southern coast of Tasmania called Bruny Island.

We drive south to visit the national park, and most importantly, we take photos at the famous Neck Lookout. After setting up camp about 100 meters from the beach, we take a stroll and are in awe of how beautiful the beaches/views are and the incredibly clear water. There are also hardly any people around, so we get to enjoy all of this almost exclusively!

The next morning, we take a long drive over to Freycinet National Park, which is most famous for its Wineglass Bay; however, we found equally beautiful spots hiking and driving around the park.

Our time in Freycinet is short and the next big stop on our road trip is Cradle Mountain National Park. Cradle Mountain is basically on the opposite (western) end of the island. We camp one night here and spend all of our time hiking and admiring the stark changes in landscape from the southern and eastern parts of the island. It is amazing how different a few hours of driving can make to the surroundings.

We also spot our first slithering friends here (later discovered to be a Tiger snake)— one passes within about 18 inches of Mary’s foot while we’re on a trail. Luckily she doesn’t even notice (panic would not be a good reaction). A few paces down the path we see another! This about concludes the excitement of bugs & critters — we’re fortunate not to see many snakes/spiders considering Australia’s reputation.

After the trip to Cradle Mountain, our hiking and camping days conclude and I get a very nice treat in the form of playing golf all day at Barnbougle Dunes, which is often rated as one of the top 30 golf courses in the world. I get very lucky with the weather and am able to play two 18-hole rounds before calling it a day. We spend the next two nights in the closest “big city” — Launceston — to catch up after being so disconnected.

The next morning, we take an early flight back to the mainland for a two day stopover in Sydney! Our time in Sydney is brief, but we are efficient and hit most of the important places (the Opera House, Darling Harbour, Harbour Bridge, etc.). We cap it off with a wonderful two-hour cruise of the Sydney Harbour, which allows us to see a lot more than we would’ve on our own.

Ideally, we would spend a couple of months — perhaps longer — in Australia. It’s such a large country with so many places to explore. On this trip, we made a strategic decision to spend about a week in Tasmania. We assume if we go back to Australia, our time would more likely be spent on the mainland.

That decision paid off — Tasmania on par with Iceland in terms of beauty, and it is very accessible once you’re on the island. As one would expect, Melbourne and Sydney certainly did not disappoint either. We found the people in Australia to be the nicest (by far) and most relatable we have encountered on this trip. This was also our “reintroduction” to a more western way of living (AKA having real sidewalks and grocery stores) which was a breath of fresh air.

Every.single.person greeted us with a smile, a hello, or tried to help even if we didn’t need anything. These things don’t go unnoticed when you have passed through as many countries as we have in a short amount of time. The Aussies are good people inhabiting an old, beautiful and diverse land and we hope to make a return trip some day!

This post would not be complete if I did not include pictures of the most hilarious, little dog named Stella we befriended at our Melbourne Airbnb. You’re welcome.

First, a quick ode to our “holiday” beach week in Thailand. After Cambodia, we catch a flight to the very popular Thailand beach destination, Phuket (pronounced poo-ket, as opposed to the obvious alternative). Our purpose here is onefold — relax. Perhaps a learning for us and others: international backpacking for months does not actually leave one rested. It’s an amazing adventure full of epic sights, but things such as basic amenities, comfort and sleep are often sacrificed.

We find a decent value setup at Kata Bai D Guesthouse, south of the very popular party beach, Patong. We’re not here to party (sorry Jimmy — although we may indulge in a few Chang beers) and choose the more mild Kata Beach. Interesting tidbit — Kata is the “unofficial” beach for Russian tourists in Phuket. We hear a lot of Russian language early on, and after chatting with a few locals quickly we discover that this is more than a coincidence.

Phuket serves its purpose. We sleep, eat, drink and catch some rays. The water is warm and heavenly. We participate in zero sightseeing. It is wonderful.

After Phuket, we’re off to the Philippines! The beaches are said to be some of the most beautiful in the world, rivaling even Thailand. The Philippines were never part of our original plan, but we added it after nixing our route to Bali. Bali is a top contender for travel, but in our timing we would hit rainy season and we’re striving for better weather. There is also a lot of uncertainty around the Bali volcano while we are making travel plans. A future trip for sure!

Ironically, as we’re arriving in the Philippines (after a red eye from Phuket through Singapore) — this is happening.

Flights are being cancelled, but lucky for us our route through keeps us hundreds of miles away from danger.

We spend a couple of nights in Manila to recuperate from jet lag. Manila is the largest metro in the Philippines (and pretty much where all international flights arrive). We’re both a bit surprised to find that it’s a fairly pleasant/clean city compared to some of the rumors we’ve heard. We don’t attempt any major sight-seeing other than a bit of walking around.

Our next city is Tagaytay, about a two hour drive south. It’s only 45 miles, but due to the roads and traffic it takes quite long. Tagaytay is also a vacation destination for locals looking to get away from the smog and noise of Manila city life. It has a beautiful, green country vibe.

While in Tagaytay, we do as the locals do and enjoy a bit more rest and pampering. We visit the legendary Dreamland Arts & Crafts Cafe, full of quirky art and creative outlets.

My favorite part of Tagaytay is the Nurture Wellness Village Spa. One of the perks in the Philippines — you can get fabulous spa services at a fraction of the cost in the States. Jimmy and I both enjoy an ancient Filipino healing traditional massage, Hilot Kagalingan. I also throw in a facial (none for Jimmy though, after all, he has a beard now).

The longest and most anticipated part of our travel to the Philippines is the island of Palawan, specifically the northern town of El Nido. El Nido is the launch pad for the famous island hopping tours. From Tagaytay, we return to Manila and fly to the Palawan airport hub, Puerto Princesa. Most travelers fly here and take the winding, seven hour bus ride up to El Nido. Puerto Princesa has beauty of its own and we spend a few days here before catching that (dreaded) bus. We stay at Tenzai Pension House, an adorable little bed & breakfast. I’m in love with the fresh garlic rice every morning. PSA: it’s really hot and sticky in Palawan.

The bus ride to El Nido is as long as anticipated and full of twists and turns, but its doable. We’re getting a little too good at lengthy, uncomfortable bus trips. I would, however, advise anyone with motion sickness take a dramamine.

El Nido is as hot and humid as the rest of the island. The town itself isn’t anything too spectacular. It mostly exists for lodging and as a watering hole for tourists doing the island hopping tours. Our Airbnb is far from glamorous, as are most accommodations in El Nido. The town simply hasn’t caught up with the demand, and there is little value for the price. We meet lots of creepy crawly friends. But it’s a small price to pay for the views.

We do discover a gorgeous nearby beach, Las Cabanas, only a ten minute trike ride from our Airbnb (trikes are essentially a motorbike with a covered seat on wheels attached). We end up spending two of our five days at Las Cabanas.

The big to-do in El Nido is, of course, island hop! There are several tour agencies to choose from, but they all offer the same thing: Tour A, B, C, and D. There are dozens of little islands off the coast of Palawan, and they have been organized into routes/clusters and denoted by the A/B/C/D. Whatever agency you choose, you’re getting the same package. We go with Tarawis Agency and choose A & C, the most popular.

The tours all meet at the El Nido beachfront around 9am, and after about 45 minutes of organized chaos there are a dozen+ boats filled with anywhere from 5–25 people headed out for the day. All of the tours include five islands, which you get to stay at for 40–60 minutes.

Tour A is probably the most well known as it includes the “lagoons” —the big and small. The beauty lives up to the hype. The lagoons are absolutely out of this world. The water is a warm, crystal light blue tone. We are surprised to learn that in order to explore the lagoons you are required to rent a kayak (these last minute price add-ins are becoming a bit too common). Just another reason why it’s always good to carry extra cash!

We also meet Sergeant Major. Who is Sergeant Major, you wonder? While crossing some rocks and coral, I see a small striped fish below me. I feel a sharp pain on my leg. Did that fish just bite me? No way, I think. It’s just a little thing. Then I feel another nib. Haul a$$ — the fastest swimming I’ve done in a while. I finally catch up to Jimmy and tell him what happened, “This little striped fish totally just attacked me!” “Yeah,” he says, “that happened to me too, but I didn’t want to freak you out so I didn’t say anything.” Sigh. We come to find out that they are territorial fish known as Sergeant Major!

Tour C includes Helicopter island — which does in fact look exactly like a helicopter from a distance.

Helicopter Island has pristine white sand and lots of good snorkeling. Other islands of the day include Secret Beach, Hidden Beach and more.

The island hopping is without a doubt worth its price, at about $25 USD a head for each tour package. The days last from about 9am-4pm and include a fantastic lunch on the boat. But… given that incredibly affordable price, Jimmy and I both agree, the tours are simply too packed.

Each island we arrive at already has at least a dozen boats with hundreds of tourists pouring out and floating in the water. At times, safety becomes a legitimate concern. Many of the tourists can’t swim and require lifejackets (making the water even more packed). The boats do not actually dock at the islands, meaning you’re swimming/trekking through the water and over rocks to get to the various beaches. I even end up with a couple of bumps and scrapes due to the crowd.

El Nido has an interesting dilemma ahead. The amount of tourism and the revenue it brings is fantastic for the town, but the experience for those visitors is going to diminish. I thoroughly enjoyed the islands, but I probably would have liked it a lot more five years ago when it was still more “under the radar.” And I can’t imagine what will happen in the NEXT five years. Undoubtedly, one inevitable change is that the price for the island tours will go up. I’m curious to see how the town handles itself in the coming years.

El Nido is a wrap, and we make the long bus journey back to Puerto Princesa. We have an early flight the next morning to Kuala Lumpur in Malaysia. We spend a couple of nights here before reaching our final world region — Australia and New Zealand. One month to go. Jimmy best summarizes the proper emotion below. Cheers!

(A little belated) our latest update brings you to the Southeast Asia backpacker path blazed long before us — officially known as the Kingdom of Cambodia, but unofficially recognized as the “Wild West” by me and Mary during our time in Phnom Penh.

Phnom Penh

We arrive in Phnom Penh early afternoon on December 28 and fly through immigration, pop in a new SIM card for the phone, and withdraw USD from an ATM all within 20 minutes. Bang, bang, bang! The icing on the cake is quickly finding the local bus to the city centre. After throwing our luggage down, Mary and I let out a sigh of relief and appreciation for what is our smoothest airport exit on the trip. One might be surprised how much research goes into smoothly exiting airports and getting to your destination in various countries when a taxi isn’t your default method of transportation!

We spend six nights in Phnom Penh and while that may be more nights than we recommend to people with less-flexible schedules, we feel it was appropriate especially since it overlapped with New Year’s. Here are some of the highlights from our time in Phnom Penh:

Marble bar (down the street from our hostel) — Not even international travel is more important than college football for me. After struggling mightily to stream bowl games from my computer due to the weak wifi in the hostel, I find a dive bar down the road streaming the CFB playoff games. I do not watch the ND v. LSU game because it is on at 1:00 am our time and no place is open, but I do show up to this bar at 6:30 am to watch Georgia v. Oklahoma and Alabama v. Clemson. When I show up, it’s just the owner of the bar, the bartender, and me. The bartender and I strike up a chat because we’re both from the States and lo and behold he’s an LSU grad! After only slightly rubbing in the ND victory, we have great conversations over the next several hours talking about topics ranging from college football/NFL to corruption in Cambodia, the negative effects of Chinese investment in the country, and what it’s like being an expat in Southeast Asia (he’s lived in Thailand and Cambodia the last 10 years). A little familiarity can go a long way!

Hostel happy hour — 2 (very good) cocktails for $2.50 and 50 cent draft beers, not much more needs to be said. Cambodia does A LOT to overcharge tourists where they can, but you can always find a good deal on alcohol.

Okay..now onto the cultural stuff:

National Museum of Cambodia — We spend a couple of hours here soaking in loads of information about Cambodia’s history. Over 1,500 historical artifacts teach us about the pre-Angkorian and Angkorian eras and also help us understand Cambodia’s interesting back and forth history with Hinduism and Buddhism.

Central Market and Night Market — the central market is situated inside an odd-looking art deco building. The market itself has an abundance of clothing, food, art, and jewelry. It’s definitely worth a visit if in Phnom Penh. The night market also has some clothes stands, but is better spent enjoying food cooked right in front of you by the locals.

Mekong Riverwalk — pretty self-explanatory, but there’s a long stretch of road parallel to the Mekong river that’s fun to walk because there’s a lot of activity with tourists and locals alike.

Exploration — Phnom Penh is a fascinating city to walk around. Being the capital of Cambodia, it is obviously very large in population and geography; so, there are a ton of neighborhood pockets that present stark contrasts. While it lacks in the skyscrapers you would see in most capital cities, it makes up for in its “Wild West” feel with dirt roads and a saloon on every corner.

Tuol Sleng Genocide museum — Similar to the War Remnants Museum in Saigon, this was a very, very sad and sobering experience as it chronicles the Cambodian Genocide from 1975–1979, which killed an estimated 1.5–3 million people. The museum itself is actually an old high school that was converted to a prison/execution center during the Khmer Rouge (it was 1 of 150 execution centers at the time). It is estimated that ~20,000 “prisoners” came through this camp — people subjected to brain-washing, torture, and ultimately execution at the hands of this regime. The museum explains the conditions that led to the rise of the Khmer Rouge, its role in the Cambodian Genocide, the World’s denial about the Genocide occurring for years, and sadly, the fight for justice that still exists today by convicting those responsible.

Most importantly — the museum honors the victims by displaying photos of every single prisoner, thus bringing them to life and reminding each visitor not to forget these men, women, and children who were senselessly killed.

Siem Reap

On January 3, we take a 6-hour bus from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap, also known as the place you stay when visiting Angkor Park to see the ancient temples. After arriving at the hotel, we are greeted by a cute but very lazy golden retriever and a room with a broken fan, broken toilet, and an A/C unit that undoubtedly meets the lowest of international standards for cold air output. These things hardly surprise or phase us at this point in the trip, so we kindly tell the staff and head out to get some food and explore what Siem Reap has to offer…

We are immediately struck by how different it is from Phnom Penh; in fact, I would argue the only common denominators these two cities have are: 1.) Cambodian people 2.) a plethora of tuk-tuk drivers constantly yelling at you and 3.) 50 cent beer happy hours. Don’t get me wrong, you can find plenty of tourists in Phnom Penh in certain locales, but we went from being in the small minority in Phnom Penh to the majority in Siem Reap. Siem Reap is often tabbed as a backpacker haven due to its famous “Pub Street” featuring several bars/restaurants, its cheap Night Markets, and overall party atmosphere.

We know Siem Reap will be a good time, but the biggest benefit it offers is proximity to Angkor Park — home of the infamous Angkor Wat and hundreds of other temples dating back to as early as 900 A.D. Similar to the Taj Mahal, not much can be said about these ruins from the Khmer Empire that hasn’t already been said; one simply has to celebrate the remains and imagine what this Empire looked like back in the day. We broke out our trip to Angkor Park over two long days:

Day 1: Our tuk-tuk driver takes us on the route known as the “small circuit” of temples, which consists of Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom, Ta Keo and Ta Prohm (the Tomb Raider temple). All three of these temples are extremely special in their own ways, but we probably enjoyed Ta Prohm the most. Sadly, I couldn’t get Mary to strike the Angelina Jolie pose from Tomb Raider while at the temple.

Day 2: We follow the “big circuit” of temples, which consists of Banteay Kdei, Sras Srang, Pre Rup, East Mebon, Ta Som, Neak Pean, and Preah Khan. We finished off the day at Phnom Bakheng which offers panoramic views of the archaeological park.

It is true that the best reason to visit Cambodia based solely on our limited experience is to see Angkor Park. I know — it’s one of the great man-made wonders of the world so that’s a pretty obvious conclusion! But Cambodia has many other redeeming qualities and our experience was tourist friendly, meaningful, and rewarding. We witnessed a developing country that struggles to maintain the balance between using tourism as a growth engine and a force that can negatively impact the lives of its citizens.

Cambodia is not alone in this struggle, but its reliance on tourism was higher than anywhere we have been. We won’t soon forget it, and while it wasn’t our favorite country in Southeast Asia, we would still give two thumbs up to those people wondering if it’s worth the trip!

More specifically, welcome to Hanoi. We begin in the capital in the north (the capital since 1976, previously was Saigon/Ho Chi Minh).

Hanoi brings us cooler temperatures than Thailand, and I’m ashamed to say I find myself shivering at 65 degrees (I know, I know, it’s been like the Arctic Circle in the US). We actually need to turn the heater on in the evenings! It’s definitely a change of pace coming from 90 degrees+ for an extended period.

But it’s perfect weather as we walk (and walk, and walk…) exploring the city. Hanoi really is quite beautiful and pedestrian friendly. And by pedestrian friendly, I only mean there are actually sidewalks, which I’ve learned I took for granted.

The traffic, however, is absolutely insane. Traffic = 10,000 motorbikes.

Crossing any street back home, I think there tends to be an unspoken belief that “A: They’re not likely going to hit me B: Because it’s too much of a legal liability.”

Needless to say, neither A nor B are relevant here. You look both ways- REPEATEDLY- before crossing a street. Red lights are only suggestions. And there is no such thing as pedestrian right-of-way, even when the little green man says it’s your turn to cross.

All things considered, the biggest “danger” we face in Hanoi is motorbikes. People are very friendly and it feels like one of the safest places we’ve been.

We’re quite relaxed during our stay with very little sight-seeing. A lot of computer time, travel planning, good food and just enjoying low key vibes leading into the holidays. One of my favorite hangs in Hanoi is Joma Cafe, where I end up a repeat customer of the Oat French Toast w/ Mango.

We also delight in the classic Vietnamese dish, bun cha ta (grilled pork and rice noodles with spring rolls) at Bun Cha Ta (yep, the restaurant is named after the dish). While it’s a small shop with a street food style, it’s one of the highest rated in the city.

One of the main attractions in Hanoi is Hoàn Kiếm Lake, “Lake of the Returned Sword.” It’s in a lively part of town, and we enjoy jogging around the lake on a few occasions. The lake has an interesting origin story:

According to the legend, in early 1428, Emperor Lê Lợi was boating on the lake when a Golden Turtle God surfaced and asked for his magic sword. Lợi concluded that the God had come to reclaim the sword that its master, the Dragon King, had given Lợi some time earlier during his revolt against Ming China. Later, Emperor Lợi gave the sword back to the turtle after he finished fighting off the Chinese. Emperor Lợi renamed the lake to commemorate this event.The Turtle Tower standing on a small island near the centre of lake is linked to the legend. (Wikipedia)

After Hanoi, our travels take us south to the lively metro of Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon). While Hanoi is the capital, Ho Chi Minh undoubtedly feels larger, more urban and all around full of action. And we’re back to 90 degrees! We arrive in Ho Chi Minh two days before Christmas and spend a quick night in an Airbnb before checking into the Windsor Plaza — a real hotel! A Christmas gift to ourselves.

We find ourselves saying, “eh, it’s Christmas” a lot for the next 48 hours. Apparently the Vietnamese agree, because there are Christmas decorations everywhere.

My favorite moment is our visit to the Pasteur Street Brewing Company in the main district. While it obviously caters to the tourists and ex-pats, we decide to check it out on Christmas Eve. The streets in this area are glittered with Christmas lights and alive with people and music. It’s such a wonderful atmosphere to get the holiday spirit going.

And the brewery? I try two of their award winning brews —

Saigon Saison (amazing)

Imperial Chocolate Stout (oh-my-god-amazing)

A very worthwhile treat.

Christmas morning we enjoy a delicious breakfast buffet in our hotel. We have a lazy day followed by a couple of cocktails on the rooftop bar. Not a bad way to spend the holiday!

I’d be lying if I said we didn’t experience homesick pangs during this time of year. It’s tough being away from family, especially for multiple holidays, and especially for Christmas. I’m normally knee deep in Christmas movies, music, decorations, shopping, candles, pajamas, cookies — you name it. But we know that the experience of this journey more than makes up for it. And now we have some new traditions- a chocolate stout every Christmas Eve from now on!

December 26th hits and it’s time for some practical sight seeing. Starting with — the War Remnants Museum. We know this is going to be intense. I intentionally wanted to wait until after Christmas. The Vietnam War isn’t referred to as the “Vietnam War” here — it’s the “American War”. And the museum makes that abundantly clear.

I take a few pictures of old US army vehicles outside the museum, but out of respect & personal preference I choose not to take any photographs inside the building. Much of the imagery is haunting and does not need to be recaptured.

It goes without saying — the Vietnam War is a complicated matter, and it’s one I will not pretend to be abundantly educated on.

It is quite eye opening to see the historical documentation from the Vietnamese perspective. The museum is known for being quite gruesome and intense, and loaded with political references. It’s a very emotional experience, most notably in the sections dedicated to war crimes. Some atrocities are undeniable. I find myself losing composure on more than one occasion.

Despite my poor salesmanship of the museum — I would highly suggest it as a mandatory visit. Why? It’s an important historical lesson, and it’s important to stay open-minded even if you don’t 100% agree with the representation. If nothing else, Jimmy and I both walked away saying “we need to spruce up on our US history.” And how lucky that we were able to see this point of view.

What does one do after visiting a war museum?

1. Sit on a park bench and reflect, because you can’t do much else right away
2. Beer

We’re still riding high from our first craft brew experience in Ho Chi Minh, so why not try some more? We check out Urban Basement for a couple of Jasmine IPAs.

Other famous activities in Ho Chi Minh include:

Saigon Notre Dame Basilica (of course a must visit).

Unfortunately it’s closed for construction to tourism, but we snap a picture outside.

The Ben Thanh market is also another famous spot, but we actually choose to visit a different market since it is also notoriously known for it’s tourist-level pricing. Jimmy finally buys a pair of “nice” shorts — “Ralph Lauren” for about $10.

Vietnam goes by in a blur, probably because of the holidays. As it quickly comes to a close, we both scratch our heads and say, “what exactly did we do here?”

I remind us that the point of our trip isn’t to be the ultimate tourist — it’s to be a traveler. To take in the local moments. And we can’t always be go-go-go (or this would be a much shorter adventure).

And we have some big things heading our way as we take on the final frontier of southeast Asia — Cambodia!

As will become apparent, I clearly favor Thailand among the southeast Asia countries visited. So let’s go back in time…

The flight to Thailand is a fairly big one for us — we’re coming from Kochi, India. We’re on an overnight AirAisa plane (the first of many AirAsia flights to come). Let it be known, it is a budget airline. We flew Ryan Air in Europe several times, and the leg room on AirAsia is even more challenging. We both say a prayer that the third seat in our row will remain unfilled, and it does! Makes a tight, long flight just a bit more bearable. I think I even manage to catch a few zzz’s, which rarely happens on planes.

We get into Bangkok around 7am. The morning includes dropping our bags at Urban Hostel Bangkok (which I definitely would recommend — great value for the cost) and finding a nearby coffee shop since it’s too early to check in. Okay, I admit, it was a Starbucks. But it’s getting close to Christmas, and I’m desperate for a taste of home and reliable wifi.

We eventually settle in and take to exploring the city. We stop in MBK Center for a SIM card, and to witness one of the most busy/yet efficient shopping experiences ever. Jimmy picks up a “Lululemon” top for $6…the beginning of a lot of knockoff brand sightings. It’s all good as long as you know what you’re getting…

We head over to Siam Paragon (fancy shopping mall) for some bougie exposure. I have never, ever seen a more ridiculous food court in my life. For my midwestern friends, you probably think of “food court” the same way I do. Cheap, white tiled, overly fluorescent McDonalds/Orange Julius/Sbarro type environment.

Click here to see pictures of the Siam Paragon Food Hall. A weeee bit different. They even have a Garrett’s Popcorn!

Don’t worry, our time in Bangkok is hardly spent in shopping malls — the highlight is our visit to the Grand Palace and a few nearby temples.

For starters, the Grand Palace compound.

It’s a little expensive to access ($15/each) so we’re both groaning. But once we get in, SO worth it. It is one of the most glamorous sites we’ve seen to date. The palace grounds include the actual palace structure, as well as several others, including the Temple of the Emerald Buddha.

Fun fact: for Buddhist temples, it’s required that all visitors wear clothing covering the shoulder and below the knee (tends to be more of a female concern, naturally). And you must take off your shoes before setting foot inside the temple.

This is fine for most people, but I have what I’ll call a “dirty foot phobia”. As in- I really despise being barefoot when I don’t know if a floor is clean. I usually wear socks, even in my own house. I actually have a few pairs of slipper socks that I wear incessantly (and Jimmy makes fun of me relentlessly).

I quickly learn that I need to carry a pair of socks with me at all times, otherwise I might be unable to enjoy some of the spectacular sights. So I’m prepped on Grand Palace day and we soak up the beautiful buildings.

We end our sight-seeing day at Wat Arun, just a short ferry ride across the river from the Grand Palace.

Our plans after Bangkok include a trip to Chiang Mai in northern Thailand. How are we getting there, you ask? Why, a 12 hour train ride!

All in all, the train could have been a lot worse. But I do learn things about how different train rides can be outside of the western world, involving bugs and really brutal restrooms (mutually exclusive, actually). I’ll leave it at that.

We spend four nights in Chiang Mai. It quickly becomes our favorite. We stay at La Canal Boutique House, which I would tell anyone is a must-stay in Chiang Mai. It’s a great location, just outside the Old City walls and right across the street from one of the best night food markets. And it’s $20–25/night for a huge room & bathroom.

The street food in Chiang Mai is just unbelievable. We develop a meal routine:

• breakfast: fresh, raw fruit smoothies for breakfast from Khunkae
• lunch: veggie friend rice in the old city, unfortunately I don’t have the name of the place but it’s almost kitty-corner from the Three Kings monument
• dinner: pad thai & veggie spring rolls from the Chang Phuak Gate Night Market
• second dinner?: nutella/banana/chocolate/peanut butter crepes. (the lady running the stand remembers us when we come back and basically says “oh back again?” — sorry I’m not sorry

Chiang Mai also has endless beautiful temples or “wats” (a type of Buddhist temple and Hindu temple — the term comes from Sanskrit vāṭa meaning “enclosure”).

We hear another must-do in Chiang Mai is pay a visit to the Women’s Correctional Institution for their massage program. No, I’m not kidding. It’s a job-training rehabilitation program, and you can get a two hour Thai massage for $12 (once again, not kidding). It’s a great cause and the women are very kind and funny. Win win!

While the food and religious sites are top notch, the true highlight of our time in Thailand comes back to nature.

Meet the Asian elephant.

Thailand is known for its elephant adventures. Unfortunately, too often those adventures entail riding elephants or using them for circus-like acts. Most people reading this probably know, I’m passionate about animal welfare. I spent years with Heartland Farm Sanctuary in Madison. So I am really, really picky about going to see the elephants. Luckily, Thailand has a great organization called Elephant Nature Park committed to helping these incredible animals.

Our experience is a little different than visiting the official “park”. We actually go to a site that is individual owner-run, meaning that the owners are currently sponsored by Elephant Nature Park to discontinue use of their elephants for riding/unhealthy purposes.

We meet six beautiful, kind and hilarious beings. We feed them pumpkin, banana and sunflower seeds. Oh my do they LOVE sunflower seeds. It is too cute — they suck them out of the hand with their trunk like a hoover. Such a strange sensation!

We walk together for a while, and then have some fun at bath time in the river.

The entire experience is amazing. I can’t recommend Elephant Nature Park enough. Undoubtedly, it’s still sad that these animals have the past that they do — you can still see the scars from logging on one of the older females. But they are well cared for today and on the mend.

Their personalities are undeniable.

After Chiang Mai we catch a bus to Chiang Rai, a smaller, more laid back town about three hours northeast of Chiang Mai.

We’re only in Chiang Rai for two nights before catching a flight to Hanoi, Vietnam (I’m shocked to learn Chiang Rai has an airport, meaning we don’t have to double back to Chiang Mai for the plane).

Our first night happens to be a Saturday evening, which means that the Saturday Night Market is in full effect. It’s pretty impressive, especially for a smaller town! It takes us at least an hour to see the majority, including stops for street food snacking. My favorite snack of the night is a coconut/date pancake. Delish.

The highlight of Chiang Rai for us is unequivocally Wat Rong Khun, or the White Temple. Wat Rong Khun is a contemporary art exhibit Buddhist temple. It does have an interesting history, however, given its modern design.

My understanding is that there was the original Wat Rong Khun that was in a bad state, and the artist Chalermchai Kositpipat came in with the vision of rebuilding the temple in a grandeur way (with his own funds, no less). It’s really more of a compound than just a temple, as he has many other structures in play/being built. His vision is that it will be a sanctuary for education and meditation. Construction is still underway and may not be completed for decades.

There was also an earthquake in the region back in 2014, almost shutting down the temple permanently. Luckily it was deemed safe shortly after the event.

The temple design has a fascinating tale.

First, you cross a bridge symbolizing the “cycle of rebirth”. White hands and contorted faces reach up from the grounds below, “unrestrained desire”, a rather literal visualization of death/hell/underworld. The way to happiness is by foregoing our desires.

You then pass through the Gate of Heaven, where one’s fate is decided.

Inside the temple itself is quite different. The walls are full of colorful murals (different than the stark white exterior) incorporating flames, stars, solar systems, devils, and….. Harry Potter, the Terminator, Neo from the Matrix, and of course, Michael Jackson. In short, lots of pop culture. Why?

It’s all supposed to tie back to the inherent wickedness of humanity, in some way.

No pictures allowed from inside the temple, unfortunately.

We end this Thailand stint by visiting the Night Bazaar, which is a different take in the Saturday Night market (except this happens every night). It’s basically a big beer garden party surrounded by street shopping and food vendors. We have one last go at Thai food via cashew rice stir fry, fried spring rolls (of course) and a mango/orange/pineapple smoothie. We are not disappointed.

Can you tell we ate, a LOT, in Thailand?

Alas, our time in Thailand comes to an end (for now). We’re headed to much cooler Hanoi (60 degrees vs. 90 degrees). But we’ll be back, come mid January we head to Phuket to see firsthand exactly how gorgeous these Thailand white sand beaches do appear!

Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year!

With Greece — and now Europe as a whole — in the rear-view mirror, we are excited for a change of pace and for a place that offers new adventures and challenges

Hello, India!

The cheapest flight we find from Athens to Delhi that doesn’t require 30+ hours of travel time is through a Russian based airline, Aeroflot. Russia is not on our list of places to visit, but we figure a layover in Moscow won’t be so bad; maybe we’ll even find out if President Trump is on the news as much in Russia as he is in Europe.

Our layover in Moscow is uneventful and instead of Trump’s face being plastered on the news stations, we see large photos of Will Smith, the Beatles, Madonna, and others hanging from the walls of the airport lounge. Kind of weird décor for a lounge, but it’s better than pictures of Lenin, Stalin, and Che Guevara!

We arrive in Delhi early morning November 27, both jetlagged and with half-functioning brains. We’re able to catch a few winks at Mary’s good friend, Siri’s, home before heading out for the day (Mary and Siri have been close friends since freshman year in high school, and Siri living in Delhi is a large reason why we decide to visit India in the first place).

We grab lunch at a Persian-India fusion restaurant in Khan market before making trips to Lodi Garden and Humayan’s Tomb. In Lodi Garden, one can enjoy greenery with several tomb and mosque structures mixed in. We find out it’s also a very popular spot for couples taking pre-wedding photos and teenagers taking countless selfies. This is where we begin to understand just how important the art of the selfie is to the Indian population (more on that later).

After Lodi Garden, we stop at Humayan’s Tomb, which is supposedly the inspiration for the Taj Mahal. We are instantly in awe of this building and can see the similarities with the Taj — it is a beautiful site and our most highly recommended place to visit in Delhi. After Humayan’s Tomb, we drive by the parliamentary buildings and India gate before going to a Bharatanatyam dance performance. Per Wikipedia, Bharatanatyam is “noted for its fixed upper torso, legs bent or knees flexed out combined with spectacular footwork, a sophisticated vocabulary of sign language based on gestures of hands, eyes and face muscles.” A very active and enjoyable first day for us!

The next morning, we wake up early for the 3-hour drive to Agra to see none other than the most famous of Indian monuments, the Taj Mahal. There is nothing I can say about the Taj that hasn’t been said — it carries immense beauty and presence. Whether viewing it from afar or up-close, one cannot help but be amazed at this human feat.

After the Taj, we eat lunch at Café Sheroes, a restaurant run by female survivors of acid attacks. Sadly, these abhorrent acid attacks are still a reality in many parts of the world and we feel fortunate to have stumbled upon a place that works toward supporting a good cause. After lunch, we make our way over to Agra fort, which I initially understood as being a place that offers a cool view of the Taj, but the fort has much more to offer than that. Large in structure and still in very good condition, the fort is also worth a visit if in the Agra area. It is also the first place I see a monkey! Although this monkey was very mean, had large fangs and one arm…

After a few very busy days and not much sleep, we take some time to breathe over the next couple days by balancing time spent on future travel planning with seeing some more areas of Delhi and getting to meet some of Siri’s wonderful friends over drinks and dinner. Oh, and I get a haircut while Mary laughs and takes pictures.

With Delhi wrapped up, we take a flight to a smaller city named Udaipur (500,000 people is small by Indian standards). Udaipur is a city built around several lakes, hence the name, “the City of Lakes” and is known for its City Palace and as being the filming site for Octopussy. We only spend about a day here, so most of the time is spent walking around the city, taking an early morning bike tour of the area, and enjoying the City Palace grounds before leaving the next day for Bangalore.

Because Udaipur is a smaller city, there are not many, if any, direct flights to Bangalore so we need to fly through Bombay first. Normally this is not something worth mentioning, except for the fact I see Salman Khan during the layover. Admittedly, I am not familiar with Bollywood movies or actors/actresses and have no idea who this man is; all I see is 4–5 people trying to take a selfie with Salman and a grown man following him like a groupie and rocking a smile that somehow balances creepiness and childlike excitement. I figure maybe this guy is some athlete or C-list actor and don’t think much about it until my curiosity gets the best of me and I google “most famous Indian actors.” Guess whose face I see #1 on the list? When I return and tell Mary and Siri who I saw, Siri is in disbelief I didn’t get a picture with the man. Lesson learned: never be afraid to take a selfie in India — you never know who it could be.

After the Salman Khan sighting, we catch our flight from Bombay to Bangalore and spend 3 days here. Since Delhi, Siri has been telling us how great Bangalore is (she lived there for several years), so it has quite the reputation to live up to. In Bangalore, we welcome the sight of sidewalks (seriously, there are no sidewalks in Delhi or Udaipur), nice cafes, shops, restaurants, and perhaps most importantly — real breweries! It has the perfect balance of amenities valued by westerners while still pushing you out of your comfort zone. Oh, and selfie advertisements around every street corner in case you need a phone that carries 24 MP photo quality for selfies.

We spend our time frequenting various cafes so I can get coffee and Mary can get juices/teas, restaurants so Siri can get nachos, shops so Mary and I can look at nice things but not actually buy them, and breweries so we can enjoy a beer that isn’t a classic pilsner or lager. We also take a couple strolls through Cubbon Park, which has some of the coolest trees I’ve ever seen.

Of the three breweries we went to -Hoit, Arbor, and Biere Club — I hate to admit Arbor was the best in terms of quality and selection. Many of you reading this may understand my angst when I remind you that Arbor is short for ANN ARBOR. Yep, the founders of this brewery in Bangalore, India have ties to Ann Arbor, Michigan. I try not to let the Michigan banner hanging in the bar ruin the taste of the good beer. All said and done, Bangalore was just the place we needed to experience before going to our final destination in India, Kochi.

Upon arriving in Kochi, we are met with high temperatures and humidity reminding us that we are indeed in South India. Our first day is spent walking around Fort Kochi visiting all of the top attractions: Santa Cruz Cathedral, the Chinese fishing nets, spice markets, and a now-favorite, Kashi Art Cafe. In addition to the temperatures being much more extreme than Delhi/Udaipur/Bangalore, we also notice A LOT more tourists in Kochi. While this fact itself is not a problem, it means we get heckled a lot more by the locals who depend on tourism. The next couple days are spent trying to explore the remaining Fort Kochi area, fighting off the annoying vendors and tuk-tuks, and finding shaded or air-conditioned cafes so we can wrap up some lingering travel plans for our time in Southeast Asia.

In summary, perhaps no other quote better describes India than from the great American author, Mark Twain, “This is indeed India; the land of dreams and romance, of fabulous wealth and poverty, of splendor and rags, of palaces and hovels, of famine and pestilence, of genii and giants and Aladdin lamps, of tigers and elephants, the cobra and the jungle, the country of a thousand nations and a hundred tongues, of a thousand religions and two million gods, cradle of the human race, birthplace of human speech, mother of history, grandmother of legend, great-grandmother of tradition, whose yesterdays bear date with the moldering antiquities of the rest of nations — the one sole country under the sun that is endowed with an imperishable interest for lettered and ignorant, wise and fool, rich and poor, bond and free, the one land that all men desire to see, and having seen once, by even a glimpse, would not give that glimpse for the shows of all the rest of the globe combined.”

The last few weeks passed by in a blink. Current location: India!

But what happened between Malta and India? Greece.

And there is so much to say about Greece. Starting with— pitas.

I’m not a huge meat eater, but this needed to happen. When in Greece, must eat gyros with tzatziki sauce. The delicious pita bread alone could be a meal.

The Greece itinerary begins in Athens. We heard negative feedback from fellow travelers about the famous city before our arrival — being dirty, rundown, a little underwhelming. Many visitors fly in and hop straight to the islands, namely Santorini.

Unfortunately for Athens, I agree with a lot of the commentary. There isn’t a ton of wonder to be had in the city beyond the obvious ancient sites. That being said, I would still recommend it to anyone because — duh, the Acropolis. But you don’t need more than a couple of days.

The Acropolis is pretty amazing. It is important to go in with the proper expectations — it is VERY beat up. The Parthenon is under major rehabilitation (most of the time, I think). But its magnitude is astonishing. I can only imagine its splendor back in time.

My textbook learning of Greek history is quite far in my past. I’m surprised to (re)learn that the Parthenon was a temple dedicated to the goddess Athena (which should have been obvious, given the name ATHENS, heh). It is considered the most important surviving structure of classical Greece. Construction was completed in 438 BC. It at one time had a roof, which after multiple wounds was ultimately destroyed in 1638 during the Great Turkish War. The Ottoman Turks controlled the Acropolis and used the Parthenon to store gunpowder. What could go wrong, right? In addition to the roof, three of the four walls were seriously damaged.

The views from the Acropolis hilltop are wonderful. We’re both surprised how enormous Athens appears.

Other famous sites in Athens include the Temple of Olympian Zeus, which only stood for about 100 years before being largely destroyed in the 3rd century AD.

We encounter a huge marathon in Athens right near the Temple. Both being runners, we love soaking up the “race atmosphere”.

After a few days in Athens, we catch a ferry to the island of Hydra. The Greek islands are quite famous and there are endless options to choose from. We picked Hydra because 1) it is a relatively short ferry trip 2) it’s a bit more “off the radar” than some of the popular islands (e.g. Santorini, Crete).

Hydra is very rural, with one major town centre called “Hydra Town”. There are no vehicles allowed except emergency autos and essentially garbage trucks. So how do people get around?

Walk, or take a donkey. Seriously.

We’re really excited for our visit to Hydra. Unfortunately, Hydra is not so excited to see us.

We spend three nights on Hydra- the majority of that time indoors. It rains. And rains. And then rains some more.

It actually gets so bad that ferries back to the mainland are cancelled. We aren’t even sure we’ll be able to get off the island. The storms are so severe back in Athens that they caused deadly street floods.

We do get a break in the clouds one afternoon and are able to hike up a little mountain to the Profitis Ilias Monastery.

We’re lucky to get off of the island between downpours, and take a quick ferry over to the Peloponnese.

Peloponnese? It’s a peninsula/geographic region in southern Greece, separated from the central part of the country by an isthmus.

We’re both considerably “less than chipper” after the dreary and inconvenient weather.

Our travels require a ferry, a taxi, an hour wait at a bus station followed by a long bus ride. We’re toeing the line of sanity by the time we arrive in Nafplio, and are about to curse Greece indefinitely.

BUT — thank goodness Nafplio is oh-so-cute. And the weather takes a turn for the better.

We stay in a very comfortable Airbnb about 15 minute walk from the downtown/coast. There is an abundance of cute restaurants, pleasant walks, bakeries, and quality grocery stores.

Favorites here include:

Palamidi — a fortress atop a hill overlooking the gulf. It was built by the Venetians between 1711 and 1714. We choose to access the fortress via the 900 some step ascent up the mountainside versus the taxi road route. Every step is worth it — I can’t get enough of the views.

Our other favorite is a simple jog along the coast. Nafplio has a great running trail that leaves via the downtown boardwalk and follows a stone path hugging the coastline, ultimately turning into a dirt trail. Unfortunately we do not have our phones with us on our run, hence, no pictures :(

For anyone visiting Greece — Nafplio would be my #1 recommendation.

We end our time in Greece with a 6 night stay in Kalamata, land of the olives! Why Kalamata? It’s a larger city with a central location, easy to get around to archeological sites and coastal towns in the west of the Peloponnese.

We rent a car for two days and make day trips.

It’s strangely liberating being able to drive ourselves around after being so dependent on buses and other public transport. The Olympian Gods continue to smile upon us after our less than stellar introduction to Greece — the sun shines for six days straight and our drive is full of magnificent scenery.

We visit the coastal towns of Methoni and Pylos, both of which are very quiet due to the “winter season”. Winter here is 70 and sunny, apparently.

We wrap up an afternoon at Voidokilia beach, a semi-circular beach in the shape of the Greek letter omega. Not a bad way to end the day.

Our next excursion is a visit to Ancient Messini, founded in 371 BC. Messini gets far fewer visitors than more popular sites such as Olympia (for no apparent reason), and we found it to be spectacular. It’s nestled in a beautiful green hillside and seems to extend on forever. It has arguably the most intact structure of an ancient Greek stadium. Excavations are still ongoing.

Our week in Kalamata is the perfect way to end our time in Greece. The sunshine and warmth, combined with our ridiculously awesome Airbnb terrace makes for a perfect Thanksgiving. What do we do for the holiday? We cook in! Butternut squash risotto, sweet potato/corn/carrot mash, green beans and of course fresh bread with local olive oil.

As is typical during the holiday season, the past few weeks have been a time for reflection.

Three months into our trip is a pivotal moment. It marks the intended “halfway” point of our international travels. To my surprise, I’ve felt the weight of this milestone in a strange way.

Nervous, due to the obvious “what’s next?”

Excited in a way, also because of the “what’s next?”

Maybe overall a bit freaked out.

It’s no secret to our friends & family back home, we’re not sure what happens when we return. Jobs, residence — unknown.

During the first couple months of travel, it felt very natural and easy to live in the moment, not looking too far in front or behind. We were finally there, living the dream of travel we’d be longing to achieve!

As we approached the halfway point to returning home, we both began to sense the metaphorical peak of our travels- there would soon be more behind us than ahead.

But the holidays are the perfect reminder to be thankful. The sites we’ve seen and the memories we’ve made are already beyond anything I could have imagined. We try to remember this every day, and to stay present each day remaining.

A belated Happy Thanksgiving to all!

“Malta…where exactly is that?” — a question posed to us on more than one occasion. If we are being honest, the geographical location is about all we knew (by the way, it’s a small island in the Mediterranean in between Italy and North Africa). That and the fact that it has some mystical references to being the lost Atlantis.

Due to its proximity to larger and more powerful countries and its strategic position, Malta carries a rich history influenced (some would argue, forced) by the Greeks, Romans, Arabs, Sicilians, French, and English. Influences not only documented in artifacts and records, but also in its culture and its native tongue — Maltese, which is a complex blend of Arabic, Italian and English.

Speaking of the language, Mary and I joked a couple of times about how this wonderful island shares only two things in common with one of our other favorites, Iceland — 1.) both are roughly the same population and 2.) we have absolutely NO IDEA what anyone is saying when speaking the national language. Thankfully the overwhelmingly majority of Maltese people speak English, due in large part to its English colonial past.

We spent a total of nine days in Malta broken up between six days in Gozo and three days in main island of Malta. It was the perfect amount of time for us to recharge and enjoy what the island has to offer at our own pace.

The first and longer leg of our trip is spent in Gozo, which is the second largest island in the Malta archipelago. It is perhaps best known for the Azure Window, which tragically crumbled during a sea storm earlier this year. Here, we enjoy one of our best Airbnb experiences to date at the self-titled, “Zen House on the Sea.” My wife uses this clever “Zen House” moniker as a chance to impose martial-law like restrictions on cell phone use and to amplify our efforts in adopting healthy practices. Always the planner, she documents daily rules for our stay in Gozo: no email before noon, no social media, physical activity required, reading for at least an hour, learn something new, meditate, no alcohol — you get the gist. As much as I huff and puff about these restrictions, it provides opportunity for further clarity about why we are doing this trip and how to approach the remaining journey.

Among scholars and Europeans, Malta and Gozo are well known for their archaeological remains, particularly the Megalithic Temples of Malta, which are some of the oldest freestanding structures in the world dating back to 5600 BC (older than Stonehenge and the Egyptian Pyramids). The Megalithic Temples were constructed in phases over time, but we visit in the oldest of the Temples known as Ġgantija or “Giants’ Tower.” According to local Gozitan folklore, a giantess who ate nothing but broad beans and honey bore a child from a man of the common people. With the child hanging from her shoulder, she built these temples and used them as places of worship. Although the Temples have deteriorated due to the natural elements and most sadly, human destruction, we are inspired by these feats of human ingenuity.

After Ġgantija we go to Victoria, the capital city of Gozo, to visit Cittadella (“the Citadel”). Positioned in the center of Gozo, the perimeter of Cittadella has likely been inhabited since the Stone Age and offers a panoramic view across the island (Gozo is only 26 square miles in size). Because of this viewpoint, Cittadella has received significant fortifications over the years and has served as a focal defense point going back to the Medieval period. Here, we observe the various informational displays and learn more about Maltese history, specifically from the sixteenth century to present day.

The day wraps up with a visit to Xlendi on the western side of Gozo, whose views somehow mirror a wonderful hybrid of Ireland’s Cliffs of Moher and Croatia’s coast. We enjoy some time hiking the cliffs before catching the bus back to our side of the island.

The rest of our time in Gozo is spent enjoying the neighboring area of Marsalforn Bay, which is known for its salt pans and snorkeling.

And on the seventh day, we rest…just kidding we take a bumpy ferry and a sweaty bus to Malta for the next leg of our journey. Still riding the high from our “Zen retreat” and the inspiration derived from prehistoric sites and beautiful scenery, we look forward to what the main island has to offer. Rainy conditions force us to be efficient with our time, so the first thing we do is explore a couple top attractions — Valletta City Gate and the Blue Grotto.

Valletta reminds us a bit of Dubrovnik, Croatia — very cool and a must see attraction, but also very touristy and consequently, in much better condition than the areas surrounding it.

The Blue Grotto is neat and offers a panoramic view from the southern part of the island.

The next day is spent planning travel for southeast Asia at one of Mary’s new favorite spots, the Grassy Hopper (vegetarian/vegan cafe), before making a trip to St. Julian’s once the rain subsides. We learn St. Julian’s is a vibrant area with an abundance of bars and restaurants and enjoy simply walking around the area. We sit down for a couple drinks at a tavern and talk with an old Irishman who we can only understand about 10% of the time.

Worth mentioning, we made a couple of new friends during our time on mainland Malta. Meet Ruby and Skye. Other residents of our Airbnb.

Mary also continued her love affair with these peanut snacks she originally discovered in Croatia. The name fits.

On our final day in Malta, we go to mass at the stunning St. John’s Cathedral in Valletta before catching our flight to Athens. Next up is travel in Athens, Hydra, and Peloponnese!

It’s just the right size, gorgeous and WARM. The only thing that can be considered missing is access to a beach, but I’m not complaining.

Almost every day is mid-80s and sunny. It’s the kind of weather where you can sit outside at night with only a t-shirt, not a bit chilly.

The streets are narrow and charming. Around every corner are outdoor dining tables. Our first evening we sit outside at a small Italian bistro (hard to admit, but at a certain point I need sustenance other than patatas bravas). We drink this bottle and proceed to look for it at every grocery store thereafter to no avail. Nothing fancy, but for some reason all of the vino tastes better across the Atlantic.

The highlight of our visit to Sevilla is undoubtedly the Real Alcázar. The Alcázar is now a royal palace originally founded around 913 as a Moorish fort. It has evolved ownership and design over the years, and is an absolute beauty with a mesmerizing blend of architectural styles. The Alcázar is said to be the best example of Mudéjar architecture in Spain.

Get ready for picture-overload, apparently I’ve recovered from my photo-taking-fatigue. Pictures to follow are from the Alcázar.

Every detail is so beautiful — the tiles, ceramic, I find myself taking pictures of stairs and windows…

I’m a big fan of the massive gardens as well.

We spend about two hours exploring the grounds. It’s a must must must see in Spain.

Other honorable mentions in Sevilla:

A small (but worthy) highlight is our visit to Bodega Santa Cruz for lunch. It has a really authentic old school tapas vibe. Tiny seating area with many people standing to eat. Tapas around 2 euro each. It’s delicious and the staff are hilarious.

Sevilla is THE place in Spain to see a flamenco show. We choose Casa de la Memoria since it has great reviews and is easy walking distance. It’s a very small space intended to create a personal, emotional energy. The dancers are about 5 feet in front of us. The performance is very intense and impressive. Unfortunately they don’t allow photography except the last 5 minutes or so.

The Catedral de Sevilla is enormous, and like all cathedrals, very ornate. Like everything else in Spain, it too is under construction. In lieu of paying 20 euro to get inside as a normal tourist, we opt to attend a Friday morning mass for the experience.

Sevilla is also home to a microbrewery named Maquila which I would recommend to anyone visiting. Surprisingly great beer (and we’re difficult to impress) and yummy, unique tapas menu.

Lastly for Sevilla — check out the Plaza de Espana. Today the buildings function mostly as government offices. The presence is stunning.

Onto our final destinations in Spain! Granada and Madrid.

Granada has similarities to Sevilla (adorable old winding roads, tons of bars/restaurants), but overall it feels more crowded. Maybe that’s because it’s smaller, yet just as many tourists want to come here.

The main attraction in Granada is La Alhambra. It is a giant fortress/palace located on a hill overlooking the entire city. You can’t miss it. It reminds me a bit of the Alcázar and has similar history, beginning with the Moorish heritage and bouncing to Christian after the Reconquista.

Also like the Alcázar, we can’t stop taking pictures. Ceilings, floors, doorways, it’s all beautiful. Here is a little peek into La Alhambra.

Another recommendation in Granada is the view from Mirador de San Nicolas. This is actually the only way to get a somewhat complete look at La Alhambra’s profile!

Our time in Madrid flies by. It comes at the tail end of our two week trek throughout Spain. We are catching our breath before heading off to Malta. It’s another major city of course, with more of a Chicago feel. Lots of shopping and plazas. We intentionally don’t attempt to “see it all” in three days, for fear of losing our minds (or patience) trying.

My favorite part of Madrid is undoubtedly the Buen Retiro Park. It’s a HUGE park, 350 acres, right at the edge of the city centre. As you stroll down the path it feels like you’re leaving the busy world behind.

And this time of year, with the leaves, I was in a state of bliss. I probably took 50 pictures trying to capture the essence of fall. Jimmy says, “You must be in heaven.”

We come back to the park two days in a row, and sitting on a bench we enjoy our books for a couple of hours.

And don’t worry, they start celebrating the holidays very early in Spain too. We saw this going up on November 1st.

What’s up next for us?

Malta, followed by Greece!

I read a statistic that tourism had slowed down in the Catalonia region (namely, Barcelona) about 15–20% compared to this time in prior years. I’m sure everyone-not-living-under-a-rock is aware, Catalonia recently voted for independence from Spain. And so ensues protests/rallies/a bit of chaos.

Jimmy and I are a bit apprehensive as our journey throughout Spain begins. Stop 1: Barcelona.

To spoil the drama, other than seeing a large number of Catalonian flags hanging from balconies, we feel no wind of the political happenings. The streets are busy. The sights are packed. The bars are full…and so are our bellies. In Spain, we eat. Tapas. Wine. Pizza. Indian cuisine. More tapas. Empanadas. More wine.

And that’s just the first three days.

Barcelona, like many big cities, has a cosmopolitan vibe but with a splatter of art and history. The weather decides to completely wash out our first full day in a total downpour. I’m a midwest-grown girl, and this rainstorm is high up on the list. This is how I spend most of the day.

A bit of an exaggeration, but not far off. We wait until we think the rain is slowing and venture outside. Fake out. The rain falls, and we make a mad dash for a nearby cafe. I sip this cappuccino for a loooong time.

We hang out at the CosmoCaixa Science Museum for a while. The rain isn’t letting up and we give in and eventually arrive back home, completely soaked. Oh well!

Day 2 the sun is (almost) shining. We have a big day ahead of us since we didn’t get much accomplished yesterday. Starting out with, the beach. I demand a pit stop at this acai bowl bar near the water. The rain is still lingering off the coast.

After the beach we head to La Sagrada Familia. If anyone in Barcelona is asking, “Where have the tourists gone?” — they are HERE. Understandably so. The architecture and detail are unreal. There is never-ending construction, which is very visible in the pictures. We can’t get a great shot, unfortunately.

I won’t get into the lengthy history and detail on its architecture and construction, but you can read more here.

We hop on a bus and head to Park Güell. It’s a public park with a famous terrace / monument. The terrace contains a colorful, wavy bench often making up tourist photos. Once again, construction is significant at this sight and a good portion of the terrace is closed. I snap this picture from a distance.

Park Güell is sprawling, and climbs a hill providing a great view of the city.

The next day is largely consumed by our bus trip to Valencia. It’s strange how 4 hour bus ride is starting to feel normal!

I immediately sense that Valencia will be a different experience. It’s a little bit slower paced, more walkable of course. The neighborhoods are very distinct…the old town, the beach area, the art/science region, shopping district…the list goes on. I really enjoy the manageable feeling.

“Walkable” translates into us walking 10–15 miles a day, which is actually pretty common for us now. The days seems to go by more quickly all the time, and I must confess Jimmy and I are both suffering from a bit of a picture fatigue. But here are some highlights from Valencia:

The City of Arts & Sciences
Ahhhmazing architecture and beautiful use of white color. Its main attractions are an aquarium (largest in Europe), a science museum, and an IMAX style theatre.

Parque Natural de la Albufera
No pictures :(
Alas, this is probably my favorite day in Valencia, and I fail to take pictures. That’s because we spend the majority of it biking!

There is a nature reserve area about 10–15 km south of Valencia and I get it in my head that Jimmy and I should ‘make a day of it’ and bike there. Neither of us have ridden a bike (or barely) in oh..fifteen years. Nevertheless, we LOVE it. After spending so much time on our feet, being on a bike feels like flying. We bike all the way to a small town on the south end of the preserve called El Palmer and enjoy some authentic paella. Paella is native to Valencia, and to get the “true experience” it’s demanded to be tried in this region.

All said and done we bike close to 30 miles.

Jardí del Túria (gardens)
Stretching across the belly of Valencia is a dried up sunken riverbed known as the gardens of Turia. Notorious for flooding the streets of Valencia, the Turia river sadly met its demise in 1969 upon completion of a water diversion project. The good news is now pedestrians/joggers/bikers can enjoy access across much of the city in a beautiful green space without the hassle of vehicles. It is really something to see. We take several walks through the park and use it to access much of the city.

Of course, there is also the Old Town City Centre full of historical sights and cute bars & tapas restaurants. We make the rounds.

That’s a quick wrap on Barcelona and Valencia.

Current status: on our last leg in Spain, arriving in Madrid just today. Which means updates on our time in Sevilla and Granada to come very soon as well!