- 3 months ago
- #cineva
America’s Test Kitchen Season 26 Episode 2
#Cineva USA
https://www.dailymotion.com/Cineva
#Cineva USA
https://www.dailymotion.com/Cineva
Category
😹
FunTranscript
00:00Today on America's Test Kitchen, Keith makes Julia Spaghetti Al Assassina, Jack challenges
00:14Bridget and Julia to a head-to-head tasting of full canned tomatoes, and Elle makes Bridget
00:20triple mushroom pasta.
00:22It's all coming up right here on America's Test Kitchen.
00:30Spaghetti Al Assassina, or the Assassin's Spaghetti, is a dish from the city of Bari in Italy,
00:40which is on the Adriatic coast, and it's a very simple dish, but it has a unique cooking
00:45method, which Keith, Keith the Killer, is going to show us how to make today.
00:49At first glance, this is spaghetti with tomato sauce, but you said a unique technique, and
00:54that unique technique of simmering and frying the pasta in one skillet is what makes it
01:00so great.
01:01It has this super concentrated tomato sauce, and the texture of the pasta runs from soft
01:06to al dente to crunchy.
01:08It's absolutely fantastic.
01:09I can't wait.
01:10So the method is called risotto torta.
01:12So it's cooking the pasta like rice, where you're adding small amounts of broth to pasta,
01:18letting that cook down and reduce, and then adding a little bit more.
01:21So we're going to start with our tomato broth.
01:24So I have six cups of water in that medium sauce pan.
01:27I'm going to add a quarter cup of tomato paste to that.
01:30So this is similar to making risotto, where you'd have a broth going on the side and slowly
01:35add it to the dish.
01:36Correct.
01:37And I'm also going to add a teaspoon of sugar to that.
01:41That will just balance the tomato's acidity, give it a little bit of sweetness.
01:45So I'm going to whisk that in there.
01:49That looks good.
01:50So I'm just going to turn that on medium high.
01:53I'm going to let that come up to a simmer.
01:55Once it's up to a simmer, I'm just going to turn it down to the lowest possible setting
01:58on our burner and put a cover on that.
02:00Okay.
02:00While our broth is coming up to a simmer, we can focus on our skillet and start to cook
02:05some of our aromatics.
02:06I have a third of a cup of olive oil in this 12-inch non-stick skillet.
02:10It sounds like a fair amount of oil, but we're going to be frying at the end, and you're
02:14going to thank me because you're going to have a lot of starch in there, and it will
02:17stick like crazy if you don't have some oil.
02:19To that oil, I'm going to add two cloves of minced garlic.
02:23I'm going to add three-quarters teaspoon of hot red pepper flakes.
02:28Hello.
02:28Hello.
02:29It's spicy.
02:30We want it spicy, and that's where the name of Cecina comes from.
02:33So, I'm just going to turn this skillet on medium, and we're going to cook that until
02:39that's nice and fragrant, which will take about two minutes.
02:44It's been cooking for two minutes, and you can smell that garlic already.
02:48Now, I'm going to add one cup of tomato passada to this.
02:52Interesting.
02:52Now, that's not an ingredient we've called for a lot in the past.
02:55So, it's relatively new to us.
02:57It's similar to a tomato puree, but rather than the tomatoes being cooked, the tomatoes
03:01are raw, so it's a lot brighter, a lot more acidic.
03:04I'm also going to add one and three-quarters teaspoon of table salt, and that's going to
03:08season our pasta.
03:10I just want those flavors to kind of meld for that passada to reduce a little bit, which
03:14will take four minutes.
03:16It's been four minutes, and our passada has been cooking, and it's slightly reduced.
03:21So, now I'm going to add our pasta.
03:23I have 12 ounces of spaghetti here.
03:26Try to get that into an even layer as possible.
03:29You can't get it fully even, but that looks perfect.
03:32And I'm going to start adding our broth.
03:34So, this is our first addition.
03:36I have one cup of tomato broth.
03:38It's really important to kind of be diligent about stirring at the beginning.
03:42Get that sauce in between there and stir.
03:44And this is going to take four to five minutes for that to start absorbing in there, and then
03:49it will come back and add a little bit more broth.
03:52Okay, you can see a lot of that moisture has been absorbed into the pasta, and the pasta
03:57is actually starting to soften a little bit, so it's shaping into the form of the skillet.
04:02And you can also see the oil starting to break a little bit and sizzle around the edges.
04:06Yeah, you can hear it.
04:08So, that is the first cup.
04:10So, now I'll add another cup, and I'll continue to stir this and kind of separate the strands,
04:17making sure the sauce is in between those strands and it's not sticking, especially up
04:22here and here where they're kind of pinched together.
04:26This is so interesting.
04:28I have to say, I have never cooked pasta like this.
04:30Yeah.
04:30It takes a little while because you have to keep stirring it, but it's well worth it.
04:34Promise.
04:35Okay.
04:36So, I'm just going to continue stirring this, making sure that I shake the skillet and get
04:40in between the layers of pasta for about five to seven minutes until that liquid is almost
04:45all absorbed.
04:46Our second edition of broth has reduced down, and now it's time to do a little flip.
04:53So, I want to flip this to make sure that the pasta is cooking evenly.
04:56Most of the cooking is happening in the bottom.
04:58Yeah.
04:58So, I want to make sure that the top pieces go to the bottom, bottom pieces come to the
05:02top.
05:02So, the easiest way is to take two thin spatulas, and I'm going to separate them and
05:06do it in two batches.
05:13Wow.
05:14Yeah.
05:14And you can see we're getting some caramelization in there.
05:17Yeah.
05:18And that's exactly what we want.
05:20That's going to add a ton of flavor to this dish.
05:22I'll flip the second side over, like that.
05:26Straighten that up a little bit, like so.
05:30More broth.
05:32This is our third cup of broth.
05:34Add that.
05:37Just like we've been doing in the past.
05:39Make sure we separate those strands.
05:42And then wait another five to seven minutes.
05:44Okay.
05:46Third edition of broth has been absorbed by the pasta, and now it's time for another cup.
05:51This is fascinating.
05:57Even though it's just broth going on pasta, how the pasta is reacting is really unusual.
06:03Yeah, it's a transformative process that's really fun to watch.
06:08Okay.
06:08Again, another five to seven minutes.
06:10We'll come back, and we'll do a second flip at that point.
06:13Okay.
06:14Fourth cup of broth is now absorbed, and we've been cooking for about 20, 25 minutes, and now
06:20it's time for a second turn, just like last time.
06:25And again, turning is going to even out the cook and also even out some of that browning.
06:30That browning looks delicious, by the way.
06:32I think that's the best part of this dish.
06:35Okay.
06:37Because the pasta's starting to cook, it's not going to stay in these nice, perfectly long
06:41strands, but that's okay.
06:42So I'm going to add one more cup of broth here.
06:47Now, after the fifth cup of broth, it's getting really pretty close, and so what I'll do is
06:52I'll let this cook down, and as it's cooking down, I'll keep testing for doneness.
06:56If it ends in five or seven minutes, it needs a little bit more time, I'll add a little bit
07:01more broth, half a cup at a time, but this might be it.
07:04Okay.
07:05So this dish is perfect for spill-prone eaters like myself, because the sauce winds up inside
07:12the pasta.
07:12Let's take a closer look.
07:14When you cook pasta the traditional way, heat and moisture work together to cook the pasta's
07:20starch, allowing it to soften and absorb water from the outside in.
07:24In fact, 12 ounces of pasta will absorb about 18 ounces of water during cooking.
07:30For spaghetti al-assassina, instead of boiling the noodles in water, we cook them directly
07:35in a brothy sauce of tomato paste, tomato passada, and water.
07:40The spaghetti still absorbs 18 ounces of liquid, but now the tomato sauce is inside the pasta.
07:45This allows us to get noodles that are jam-packed with flavor, without any extra sauce on top
07:51or on my shirt.
07:52Okay.
07:53Our fifth cup of broth has been absorbed by the pasta, and I just want to go in and grab
07:58a strand to see if it is ready.
08:02Perfect.
08:03Just a perfect al dente.
08:04So, at this point, we don't need any more broth.
08:07We're actually going to increase the heat, and we want to promote more browning.
08:11So, I'm going to go up to high.
08:13I'm just going to leave the pasta without stirring it for three to five minutes until
08:17that bottom is nice and brown and crisp.
08:20And actually, if we get some charring on there, that's a good thing.
08:24I've been cooking this for about three minutes, and I've been kind of periodically checking
08:27underneath there with a spatula to see how it's going.
08:30And it looks beautiful.
08:31So, I'm going to cut the heat.
08:34You can smell it, too.
08:35You can smell the change in the pasta.
08:38You can smell, oh, that's what I smelled.
08:40Yeah.
08:40Is that all right?
08:41Yeah, that's okay.
08:42That charring is a good thing.
08:43Okay.
08:44You want some charring there.
08:45So, I'm just going to kind of stir this in so we get a wide range of textures when we
08:49serve this.
08:50Okay.
08:51So, I'm just going to have one final addition of two tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil.
08:56I'm going to add a nice fruity flavor to this.
08:59Ooh.
09:01That looks so good.
09:02You know, you usually think of charring on pieces of meat, like out on the grill.
09:06You think char is good.
09:08Rarely do you think charred pasta is good.
09:10So, this is kind of a first for me.
09:11I think you will enjoy it.
09:13All right.
09:22Mmm.
09:25There is so much more flavor in this dish than it looks like.
09:29It is packed with tomato flavor.
09:31I got the kick of the heat.
09:33Yeah, it does have a kick to it, doesn't it?
09:35The garlic.
09:35But it's the texture of the pasta.
09:38There's some al dente bits, some tender bits.
09:40And then you get a crunchy bit like that.
09:42Kind of mixed in.
09:44I know.
09:45Mm, mm, mm.
09:46Yeah, it really does pack a punch.
09:47Yeah.
09:49Welcome.
09:50If you want to make this killer pasta dish, start by making a tomato broth and a tomato
09:55sauce in separate pans.
09:57Cook the spaghetti in the sauce, periodically adding broth and flipping it over.
10:02Finish cooking over high heat until the spaghetti begins to char.
10:05From America's Test Kitchen.
10:07A terrific recipe for spaghetti al assassino.
10:11You don't even need, like, cheese or anything on this.
10:15It is perfect as is.
10:16So I have some news.
10:23I've changed my mind about something earth-shattering.
10:27Okay.
10:28Intrigued.
10:29For years, I've been telling people on America's Test Kitchen, you should just buy American canned
10:33tomatoes.
10:34Mm-hmm.
10:34Right.
10:34I think I may have been wrong.
10:36Really?
10:37No.
10:38Yeah.
10:38No, it's not really my fault.
10:39Okay.
10:40The way we were tasting the tomatoes gave the American brands a leg up.
10:44So these are San Marzano tomatoes from Italy.
10:47You see, they're long and skinny.
10:49They have very thin walls, so you get more of the flavorful jelly inside.
10:53But they're much softer.
10:54There's no calcium chloride, that firming agent, that the American tomatoes, which look nice
11:00and firm, is because they've got this calcium chloride.
11:04What you can't see is they also have four times as much salt, and they have citric acid
11:08to make them punchier.
11:09And so when you do a tasting right from the can, as you guys know, saltier foods always
11:15win taste tests.
11:16Mm-hmm.
11:16That's right.
11:17And when we did the taste test then with sauce, which is what you're tasting now, it's
11:20a very basic, simple sauce, the results flipped on their head.
11:23And we decided we should really just be prioritizing the sauce tasting, because who eats canned
11:28tomatoes right from the can?
11:30Not too many people.
11:31So in addition to San Marzano tomatoes, D.O.P., from Italy, they've got the label, they're
11:37more expensive, and the classic American style.
11:40There is a third choice on the table.
11:42There are now San Marzano-style tomatoes from the U.S.
11:47We thought this was really kind of confusing, because they're kind of halfway in price point
11:51between the more expensive Italian tomatoes and the cheaper American.
11:54Some of the brands are closer to the Italian tomatoes in the sense they're longer and skinnier.
11:59One brand didn't have the calcium chloride, the firming agent.
12:03But a lot of the brands were like, okay, this is the same as their American product.
12:06Right.
12:06And in most cases, we thought San Marzano-style.
12:09If you really want San Marzano tomatoes, you should be getting the thing from Italy, not
12:13the faux product from the U.S.
12:15Right.
12:16We still like American tomatoes, you know, especially if you want something that's got
12:21more acidity to it.
12:23But our winner is actually from Italy.
12:26So you've been tasting the sauces.
12:28So these are very simple sauces, obviously.
12:30My shirt's been tasting, too.
12:33I can count on you for that, Julia.
12:35You want to go first and tell me what you're thinking about the samples in front of you?
12:39First of all, the sauce is delicious.
12:40Yeah, it's a great...
12:41It's all passable.
12:43The second one is my least favorite.
12:45It's a bit watery.
12:47It's just it has a little less flavor than the others.
12:49I like all the others.
12:50I really like number one.
12:53It's lovely.
12:54I like the texture of it.
12:57And what about the texture?
12:58The texture's just a bit smoother.
12:59Okay.
13:00And some of these, there are chunks, which I'm guessing is the calcium chloride.
13:03And I don't like that in my sauce.
13:05They still taste a little raw.
13:06Whereas the others, it feels like a cooked sauce.
13:09And so I like the texture.
13:11It tastes like a sweet tomato.
13:13Okay.
13:13And so I like that.
13:14C is good.
13:15D, I get more of those chunky bits.
13:17But the flavor of D is better than the flavor of B.
13:20But they're...
13:21So I guess A and C are kind of my favorites.
13:23D is great.
13:24B, least favorite.
13:25But I'd still eat it for dinner.
13:27Yeah.
13:27Well, Bridget?
13:29Ditto.
13:31What, you're making her do all the work?
13:32Yeah, kind of.
13:34I mean, she nailed it.
13:36I was thinking the same thing.
13:38The chunkier D, I would maybe make a salsa, like a put together salsa with it because you
13:43want that chunkier texture.
13:45But again, same thing.
13:46This one had the least amount of flavor.
13:48Okay.
13:49Still delicious.
13:50I am going to switch these two.
13:51I really like these two.
13:52This one was a little too sweet for me.
13:54Okay.
13:55This one I found, I don't know, it tastes like stewed tomato sauce, which I just love.
14:01I should say everything on the table is recommended.
14:03So the good news is there are no bad choices here.
14:06So let's start with our winner, which was actually A, the Cento.
14:10Now, this is a San Marzano tomato from Italy.
14:12You said it was smoother, and that's because it doesn't have that calcium chloride.
14:16And so one of the advantages of the Italian tomatoes is they break down much faster than
14:21the American tomatoes.
14:22So if you want a really smooth sauce, Cento, besides having a wonderful flavor, will get
14:27you there much faster.
14:29Let's go to B.
14:31Okay.
14:31So B is the red gold.
14:33This was actually the runner up.
14:34Now, I will say tomatoes will change, right?
14:37It's a crop.
14:37And so this was our best buy.
14:39It was second place.
14:40This is an American tomato, the red gold.
14:42You both were less enthusiastic about the red gold here.
14:47C is the Hunt's San Marzano style.
14:50So this is a tomato.
14:52It's from California.
14:53It's not from Italy.
14:54Of the American San Marzano style, this was the one that we felt like was the closest to
14:59the real thing from Italy.
15:01It was a little softer because it didn't have that calcium chloride, and you thought
15:06it was, you know, delicious.
15:08You loved it as well.
15:10And so I also then D put the regular hunts in here just so you could see the difference.
15:15This has got the calcium chloride, and it's a sort of traditional, what we would think
15:21of as an American canned tomato.
15:23So really interesting.
15:25I love that you both liked A.
15:27Yes.
15:28You know, you're validating that.
15:29Now, the bad news is those San Marzano tomatoes are probably two bucks more a can.
15:34Right.
15:34Okay.
15:35Yeah.
15:36So, well, it costs money to get a can of tomatoes from Italy to Boston.
15:40Yes, that is true.
15:41That is true.
15:43But interesting that if we really think about how to taste these differently, we came up
15:47with different results.
15:49I also love that you can't make a wrong choice.
15:50They're all recommended.
15:52Yeah, that is good news.
15:53And so, you know, if you see something on sale or they don't have the brand, this is
15:57a case where you won't make a mistake at the supermarket.
16:06Some people refer to mushrooms as superfoods.
16:10They're full of nutrients, sure, but they're also full of flavor.
16:14And that's why I call them a mega food.
16:16Now, here to make a pasta dish that's going to bring out the very best of mushrooms is
16:21the Wizard Elm.
16:21Oh, that's right.
16:22And what better way to achieve that earthy, savory profile than by using three mushrooms?
16:29Oh, triple mushroom fret.
16:31Oh, yeah.
16:31Oh, yeah.
16:32And we're going to start by making a crispy mushroom, which is going to add a little
16:36flair to our pasta dish.
16:38Love it.
16:38And we're using our first star mushroom, the maitake.
16:43I love these.
16:44Also known as hen of the woods.
16:45And if you don't have this, you can replace them with cremini mushrooms.
16:48Okay, great.
16:49So these look really good.
16:51You will need to do just a little trimming.
16:53I kind of try to take out like that big bone piece, but to keep the good leaves, right?
16:58And tear them apart.
16:59We need half inch pieces here.
17:01So I'm going to just like tear some of these pieces that seem big.
17:05I have two tablespoons of olive oil in there.
17:08All right.
17:08So our oil is shimmering.
17:10It's time to put the mushrooms in.
17:11Great.
17:13So I'm just going to move these around to make sure that they're all kind of on the surface.
17:18We don't want to stir these very much.
17:20We're just going to let them cook for about two to three minutes.
17:23Follow me over here to my special project called Making Duxelles.
17:29Oh, gorgeous.
17:30Yes, it's a French preparation of mushrooms, but we're also going to start with our second mushroom.
17:35Okay.
17:36This is a dried porcini mushroom, and it is not unusual that we would soak a dried porcini mushroom.
17:41In this case, we don't need to.
17:43We just gave it a rinse to get the porcini dust off.
17:46Right.
17:46Right.
17:46And I have about a quarter of an ounce here.
17:48I'm just going to add that to the food processor.
17:50I have one shallot and three cloves of garlic.
17:57Nice.
17:58And I'm going to process it for about 10 to 15 seconds.
18:04That looks good, and it smells good, too.
18:07Let's hop back over here to our mushrooms.
18:10They are actually doing exactly what we need them to do, which is to just brown around the edges.
18:15And now that it's done that, we can give it a stir.
18:18Okay.
18:18And then just let them go for another seven to nine minutes.
18:22All right.
18:23Let's come back over to the food processor.
18:26So I'm going to scrape down the sides of this bowl.
18:29Our third and final mushroom.
18:33This is a pound of white mushrooms.
18:35And we're just going to go right into the food processor here.
18:38Yeah, they are the workhorse, I think, of the mushroom world.
18:41They are.
18:41And I think the most adaptable.
18:43These mushrooms can actually take on any flavor.
18:45Sure.
18:45And I love that about white mushrooms.
18:48Okay.
18:48So I'm going to just process these mushrooms for an additional 40 to 55 seconds and scrape them down midway.
18:54Okay.
18:55All right.
18:56So it's been nine minutes.
18:58And these look beautiful.
19:00They look fantastic.
19:01All right.
19:01I'm going to turn the heat off.
19:03And it just needs a little salt and pepper to taste.
19:05Okay.
19:07I'm going to get them out of the pan.
19:08So I'm going to put this back on medium heat and add two tablespoons of butter.
19:18All right.
19:19Butter's foaming.
19:20That's what we need.
19:22And it's time to go in with our 6-0.
19:246-0 cooking is one of the most heavenly aromas in the world.
19:31The shallot and the mushroom driving off all that moisture.
19:36Gorgeous.
19:37It's like mushroom butter.
19:39It really is.
19:40Right?
19:40Super soft.
19:41Cooks pretty easily.
19:43So I'm just going to add to this one teaspoon of salt.
19:45Okay.
19:47So now that I have the salt in there, we're going to cook this much like we did the maitakes.
19:52We're not going to stir it too much.
19:54We don't need to bother it.
19:55Maybe a little bit.
19:56Okay.
19:57From time to time.
19:58Just check on it.
19:58Just check on it.
19:59And we're looking forward to brown.
20:01And that'll take about 10 to 12 minutes.
20:02Okay.
20:04Okay.
20:05I can tell by the look on your face that you know that this duck salt is ready.
20:09So I'm going to take it off the heat.
20:10That smells so good.
20:12It really does.
20:13It really does.
20:14And now I'm going to just add some ingredients to add a little unctuousness to this dish.
20:18So I have a half a cup of heavy cream here.
20:22All right.
20:22So I'm going to add a little acidity here by putting in a tablespoon of lemon juice.
20:26That makes sense.
20:29A little bit of pepper.
20:30About an eighth of a teaspoon.
20:31Great.
20:32Yeah.
20:33I'm going to give this a good stir.
20:36So I have a pound of campanelle pasta.
20:38Going into just this mere five cups of water.
20:41What we're doing is creating a starchy water base.
20:46I'm also going to add a little salt.
20:48Teaspoon of salt.
20:49But this is a huge departure.
20:51It's usually for one pound of pasta, dried pasta.
20:53You get four quarts of water.
20:55That's right.
20:55But here we're creating more of a starchy base for our pasta.
21:00Less water, more starch, creamy pasta.
21:03Really smart.
21:04So we're just going to let this go for six to eight minutes.
21:07Right?
21:07We're looking for the water to be at a partial boil.
21:11Okay.
21:11And we're also going to just cover it slightly.
21:14All right.
21:15So it's time to check this pasta.
21:18I think we are good to go.
21:20We don't need to drain it.
21:21I'm going to take it off the heat.
21:22Let me just move it over here.
21:24And we're pretty much ready to start building our pasta.
21:28We have a duck cell that's ready.
21:31Go in with that.
21:33So I'm going to add one ounce of Pecorino Romano.
21:36And I'm just going to give it a vigorous stir for about one to two minutes.
21:40This is going to activate that starch.
21:43Get our duck cell well incorporated and folded into those beautiful pastas.
21:48Getting your duck cell all in a row.
21:50Yep.
21:51This looks delicious.
21:52Are you ready to eat?
21:53I'm very ready to eat.
21:54Me too.
21:55This looks fantastic.
21:56This is for you.
21:57We'll start light.
21:58We can always go back from here.
21:59I love it.
22:00It's a true pasta course.
22:01And then I'm just going to take the pot.
22:03Oh my gosh.
22:05So I'm going to put a little of our crispy mushrooms, a.k.a. mushroom croutons, on the top here.
22:13Such a pleasing dish.
22:15A little parsley garnish for you.
22:17This is...
22:18I'm fancy.
22:19Five-star restaurant here.
22:20Are you ready?
22:22Yeah.
22:33Oh my gosh.
22:35Every bite.
22:37It's a deeper and deeper flavor.
22:39Yes.
22:39This is umami packed.
22:41This is gorgeousness in a bowl.
22:44We'll think.
22:44I'd expect nothing less.
22:46Anything for you.
22:47Thanks, Elle.
22:48Well, if you want to make this wonderful dish, it starts by sautéing maitake mushrooms for
22:53a crisp topping.
22:55Create a duxelle by cooking down button mushrooms and dried porcinis.
22:59And boil the pasta in just five cups of water.
23:02And then toss in the mushrooms and pecorino until nice and creamy.
23:05So from America's Test Kitchen, the Splendiferous Triple Mushroom Pasta.
23:11You can get this recipe and all the recipes from this season, along with product reviews
23:16and select episodes.
23:18And those are all on our website, americastestkitchen.com slash TV.
23:24Mistress of maitake.
23:26At your service.
23:27Luckily, we're in the bakery and all the doxelle.
23:28So if we go to China, we'll give a small number of images, we'll win a halfensi繭,
23:29and we'll show大家 how to feed the dishes.
23:30We'll give a small number of customers on our website, and we'll take a small number of stuff.
23:31ene Sean Iwaves-
Be the first to comment