I’ve been given some linear rails, and the only thing I can think to do with them is build a large format 3d printer. I have two 750mm and two 670mm rails, two carriages each.
360° camera owners know how insanely delicate the lenses are. This is a 3D-printed cover to protect the lenses of a Ricoh Theta X camera, a base to bolt onto something heavy to create a stable stand and a variant to mount on a selfie stick.
So I’ve been Looking into getting myself a Prusa for a while now, Namely as a Backup for my Lemony ol P1S. One of the Issues thats been particularly bad on that Machine are VFAs, so thats something I Largly wanna Mitigate with my Next Machine…
I’m somewhat puzzled which settings I need to look at in PrusaSlicer to solve those thin slits between perimeters. I’ve dialed in the flowrate optimally for dimensional correctness and 245°C (PETG) works really well for both flow and overhangs.
First time using TPE. Overhangs are pretty rough on a MK3. The rubberiness of TPE is more like a vulcanized natural rubber used on surfaces like conveyor belts. It is similar to bike hoods. That first textured print is still too rough and rigid for a thing like bar tape.
About half the time recently when printing with PLA, I see that holes or loops have a line of filament running approximately through the middle which seems to be one of the inner perimeters having detached and contracted, but is still attached on both sides. Is it a temperature thing, an extrusion thing? I can’t find a pattern. Bed adhesion is great. Bambu H2C, mostly printing with Bambu Basic PLA.
My FPV goggles have no internal battery, they need to be run off a 2s-8s LiPo or 5v from a USB port. This lets me use a reasonably safe power supply instead of strapping a raw lipo to my body.
I made my own 3D printer in 2014 (E3D, Core-XY, oversized Nema motors, …), but it has been sitting in the garage for too long and it’s a bit bulky, finicky and so on. A good first try IMO back when crappy chinese ones was 700-800€ on AliBaba…
But because my kid asked me if we couldn’t buy one, and this one specifically, I checked it out, it’s ~300€ which I thought was way too cheap for something reliable but things have changed in the 3D print world it seems, and I haven’t kept up.
This is the emails between the YouTuber YGK3D and Anycubic, it seems like they won’t send 3D printers to reviewers who mention their GPL3 license violations.
(Continued from https://lemmy.world/post/43278229 a few days ago…) So, I tried fully removable for the index, but that is impractical as far as the size, space, and complexity. I can’t see a way of maintaining concentricity.
Not an affiliate. No tracking links. Just a pretty video of my new printer I thought you guys might like. Leave me a comment if you want to say hi. Hosted on my own Peertube instance.
Had to make the cable pull measuring jig and get it repeatable. Then had to model the interior of the shifter to know where cable contacts the pulley in order to fully understand why the pulley is eccentric and not round. The only valid reference surface is the main pivot shaft and the cable housing stop location is blind.
I’ve been struggling with my K1 since Christmas. I bought it on sale for Black Friday and no matter who I contact at Creality, no one can tell me what replacement parts to order. K1 parts don’t fit my printer. They want pictures to see what ‘buckle’ I have, because my serial number isn’t enough information, but who wants to tear down a printer just to take pictures? Now my thermistor is broken (a leg weld just fell right off while I was fixing a clog), and I can’t order a new one because what do I order? This printer doesn’t take K1 parts. Every time I order something, it has to get shipped back. I’m annoyed and venting, but also trying to help anyone else considering a Creality printer. Don’t do it. Their support is a joke and they take zero accountability.
So I did some testing with greentec (high temp bio filament) and before i tried anything I did all the usual calibrations:
21 m3/s max flow; 1,005 flow factor; 99,73% xy and 100,27% z shrinkage; low to medium-high cooling; …
I’ve got a roll of Blue Geeetech ABS+ that starts to smoke when it’s still so cold that its layer adhesion is terrible, and just burns in the nozzle whenever it’s not actively extruding if the temperature is high enough that it sticks to itself. Obviously, this is bad, and it sooted up a nozzle so badly that it needed to be replaced before I gave up on it.
I’m looking into getting a new printer, and I’m interested in building my own. I know Voron 2.4 and Trident are the obvious ones to look at. But I can’t help but notice they are both 3+ year old printers. Considering how much the industry has grown in the last few years, it got second guessing if Voron is still the way to go.
I’m reorganising my hobby space and I could really use some inspiration for cool and effective ways to do this. I have a rectangular room of about 15sqrm (6m x 2.5m) for this, I also have a treadmill in there so I don’t have tons of space.
Hello, who do you guys get your files from? Im trying to find some cool designs and someone who drops files pretty frequently to make it worth using printer space, let me know what you guys think! Thanks
It will be a 240x280x70ish speaker stand. The first go ground with it flat and support free resulted in warping despite a 60°C chamber, so I stood it on its end, cut print speed by a third, and added the breaks to reduce stress.
I’m curious why I don’t hear more about mattercad here or elsewhere? It’s free (not FOSS), and for me really fills the gap between tinkercad and most professional cad software. I often see questions about people wanting to move beyond tinkercad but being intimidated by the learning curve and the fairly large jump between it and higher powered software. Mattercad fits so nicely in this space. Yes it’s a bit slow once shapes get more complex, and it has some frustrating bugs that I don’t think will ever be fixed, but it’s both powerful and simple.
I’m curious if there are places people think it falls short or if you think I’m wrong and there is a better intermediate software package I should be considering?
This particular filament (Sunlu matte HS PETG) is one of the absolute worst I’ve ever used WRT being hygroscopic. It arrived so wet that I had literal steam from the extruder the first time I wanted to use it. It took almost 48h in my drier to dry it completely so I could use it. Its been sitting in an airtight box with dessicant for 5 weeks and I needed to dry it for >16h for it to be usable again. The wet part in this print was in the bowden tube between dryer and printer, I restarted the print after took this image.
I’m trying to find the reason why my bigger printer suddenly decided to constantly create blockages as high as the PTFE tube in the cooling block (so a little bit above the heatbreak).
I got one last week and it’s good, real good. But like too good? So I’ll never have to worry about bed adhesion, which is not a problem very often but is the most common problem on the stock textured PEI plate that the printer comes with. But with the cool plate I definitely don’t have to worry about it. Conversely, I have to worry about getting my prints off the bed without damaging them.
I recently decided to force myself to actually learn FreeCad. I’ve tried on and off for the past two years but just couldn’t get along with the UI and workflow…well, now I’m giving it an honest shot, and after a few weeks of misery, it is getting better.
Designing a simple photo frame. I wanted to make it so that it prints without supports. While printing, however, the back support part wobbles/vibrates with movement, and is printing terribly.
Back in 2018 I bought an Ender 3 and over the years after a lot of tinkering and upgrading I got really sick of having to work on it, so I shelved it permanently a few years ago. I didn’t have very much I wanted to print by then anyway, and another print failure that resulted in a giant ball of plastic covering the hotend for the umpteenth time tipped me over the edge. I could only disassemble it for service so many times before I started wanting to give it the Office Space treatment.
I’ve had a MK4S for over a week now, and 100% of the prints I’ve tried to make on the textured sheets have partially or totally failed. PLA prints beautifully on the smooth sheet, but PLA, PETG and ABS, I think I could print on the surface of a 10 inch tank of oil with more success than the textured sheet. Plastic doesn’t stick to it. I’ve wiped it with isopopyl, I’ve washed it with dawn…it’s a bad print surface and I want my money back.
I’ve finally reached a brick wall where I can’t just find something on Printables/Thingiverse that I can modify for my use case. Until now, I’ve been able to find something close and use OrcaSlicer to make small adjustments or occasionally kit bash two models together.
I just got an Ender-3 V3 KE and am currently keeping it in my garage until I can free-up space inside. My question is how cold is too cold for the printer to be okay if not in use and powered off?
I’m about to paint a PLA 3D print for the first time, and while there is some advice on what primer to use (an automotive etching plastic primer seems to be it), I’ve not see anything but hand wavy “add a layer of clear coat” for sealing.
I was pretty excited about Prusa’s OpenPrintTag specs and the implication with NFC tags, but there weren’t any apps available that could generate them (or read the bin files generated on the site), so I built (well… mostly vibe coded) an app!
After Having experimented in Making Perfectly Smooth Surfaces for about a Year now within the Print Process itself, Its time I Capitulate and start putting in some more Work and Sand it all smooth!
Tried printing the frog from this set at 75% scale, and it came out like this. The original 3mf for this one doesn’t include supports. What should I adjust on my printer to get better overhangs without supports?
Full brims, mouse ears, with glue, without glue, higher bed temperature, lower bed temperature, flat base, concentric cutout base - whatever I try, I seem to be getting wank adhesion, major warping, and ultimately this shitshow.
Added a PEI plate for my Artillery Genius using bull clips, and after leveling the leveling/adhesion test print comes out like this. Is this just me leveling the bed too close to the nozzle, or is it the pei plate not heating up as much as the original glass bed? It’s at 60c btw
Is a CR-Touch sensor a “consumable”? Creality thinks so. After our CR-10 SE failed, we spent 23 days fighting a warranty claim that should have taken minutes.
Hi all,
I want to buy my son a 3D printer for his 20th birthday.
He is a third year computer science major, so has no issues with the software side.
I have no idea where to start, or even what questions to ask.
Any ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Over the summer I picked up a secondhand Saturn 2 to play around with. Pretty quickly got it dialed in and was getting good prints out of it, mostly miniatures for tabletop games
So, because I’m a lazy fuck with an extra print sheet, I decided to go against the advice on the internet, and test how my print sheet would handle my dishwasher.
I’m wanting to move my main machine over to Linux, but I’ve heard mixed things about Orca Slicer working with Linux. Can anyone give any advice on either having it work or a Linux alternative with similar functionality?
I’m printing some Gridfinity bins for some drawers, and one of them needs to be quite tall to fulfill its purpose (18u, ~130mm). I took a shortcut and generated one from this generator using the default wall thickness and printed using Prusament PLA. This resulted in the walls falling in on itself, and my second failed print.
I need some help troubleshooting my print issues. A while back (months) I updated the firmware on my Elegoo Neptune 4 Pro. After I did that, I have not been able to get a quality print since. (I’m a teacher and a dad, so I just haven’t had many free moments to sit down and really work on it.) My worst issue is the Z axis on the calibration cube. X and Y are less egregious. Using Elegoo Rapid PLA+ and the same default settings I was using pre-update. Any advice would be helpful.
I’m a total noob when it comes to 3D printing and am frankly bewildered by all the options for machines. I don’t want to buy a printer and find out it won’t smoothly handle ASA. In fact my first print will almost certainly be a custom mount so that I can put my Tempest PWS on a 5"x5” vinyl fence post.
I had a lot of ASA to spare from a voron 2.4 project. I decided to use some of it printing the prusa rocket engine just for the fun of it, maxing out my printers volume with a height of 310mm. I printed it without any supports, and it does show some obvious issues in areas with large overhangs, but generally the printing quality is pretty good. It took 16h13m to print the entire thing and used a little under 400g of filament, 0.2mm layer height, 10% lightning infill, 2 walls.
Hello, everyone. I have a 5 year old voxelabs aquila (ender 3v2). It worked great for 2 years then started modding it, since then problems. Im at the point with bltouch and klipper from raspi4 and custom fans that it might not be worth my time to even fix. Previous 3d printed fan shroud broke and printer another, but there is supports in the blower tubes i cant remove fully plus removed the x? Stop sensor as thought was good after starting with klipper and setting it all up but it smashes to the end of the line and errors so that needs to fixed. Plus never really got the bltouch working due to wrong offsets. Idk sounds like small issues i could fix but i just want a working 3d printer.