- 2 weeks ago
Rick Stein's Far Eastern Odyssey - S01 - E02
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00:30I'm on the mighty Mekong River in Vietnam, and almost instantly, crossing the border
00:41from Cambodia, I can sense a difference between the two countries.
00:46Vietnam is more populated.
00:48The riverbanks are crowded with houses.
00:51But just over 30 years ago, this was probably one of the most dangerous places to be, reminiscent
00:56of that film Apocalypse Now.
00:58But today, it's full of life, people fishing, bathing and farming, because the Mekong is
01:04not just a highway, it's the source of everyone's livelihood.
01:08We've just turned off the main Mekong River into this canal, and then we're going to join
01:13a smaller river called the Bassac, which is the name of the boat as well.
01:16But it's so densely populated.
01:19Now, this is really interesting.
01:21All those little huts there, or most of them, have actually got fish pens under it.
01:26It's awful, but most of ones who are like a familiarity with this part of the world comes
01:31from war films, you know?
01:33I was thinking of the deer hunter in that respect.
01:36But it's really looking over there at those television aerials.
01:38It looks like there's sort of saplings coming out from above the palms.
01:42It seems to be some sort of row going on over there.
01:44Oh, no, they're shouting at me.
01:46Hello!
01:51It seems it might have been Mekong whiskey, maybe?
01:55In just a few hours, I've lost count of the number of fish farms, these floating shacks
02:04that line the Mekong's banks.
02:06I was interested to have a look inside one, so Ang, my guide, took me to a friend of hers
02:11to have a look.
02:13What sort of fish are we going to see today?
02:16This farm, we can find the tilapia.
02:20Tilapia?
02:21Yes.
02:21In supermarkets in England, there's fillets of Vietnamese fish.
02:27They call it Vietnamese cobbler fish.
02:30Do you know what that means?
02:32I'm not sure.
02:34I'm blown if I know what it means.
02:36Never heard of a cobbler fish.
02:38What you've got to remember is that these are not just farms.
02:46They're people's homes, too.
02:47A bit like the farms in the Alps, really, where the cattle live downstairs and the family
02:52live above.
02:56Everyone seems to have a couple of dogs.
02:58I imagine there's quite a bit of fish rustling going on.
03:01What do you call them?
03:10This fish, we call it kachim.
03:13Kachim.
03:15Kachim.
03:16How well, yes.
03:17Kachim.
03:18It means fish or bird.
03:21Fish or?
03:22Bird.
03:22Bird.
03:23Bird.
03:23Bird.
03:24Yes.
03:24Bird fish.
03:25How big does that grow, too?
03:27About 600 grams.
03:33600 grams.
03:34Yes.
03:35That's a really nice fish.
03:37Yes.
03:38Smells good.
03:39So how would you cook this, son?
03:42Here we like very much.
03:44It's the fish cooked with tomato sauce.
03:46Tomato?
03:47Yes.
03:47And sometimes we fry, just fry with some lemongrass and chilli.
03:52Uh-huh.
03:53Yes.
03:53What, deep fry or just in a shallow pan?
03:56Uh, deep fry.
03:58Yeah, yeah.
03:59And serve with fish sauce.
04:00Oh, yeah, I like that way.
04:02So the skin's a bit crisp.
04:04Yes.
04:04Yeah.
04:05I like the way they cook fish out here.
04:07They sort of hard fry it.
04:09This is a great sauce made with garlic, shallots, diced chilli, finely chopped lemongrass, and
04:16I'm using tinned tomatoes, which is what Aang told me to use.
04:20After all, when in Vietnam, do as the Vietnamese.
04:24And now, plenty of fish sauce.
04:27The sauce that glues everything together in South East Asia.
04:31And also, funnily enough, when we were filming in a fish sauce factory in Cambodia, I actually
04:38tasted the fish sauce that came out of the barrel, the fermenting barrel, and all the
04:44crew said, no, don't touch that, don't touch that, and it was the clearest, purest, sweetest
04:49taste I've ever had.
04:52So there we go.
04:53Now, some palm sugar.
04:54Now, you can use brown sugar for this, light brown sugar, but I love the taste of palm sugar.
04:59Of course, it's more authentic.
05:02So there we are, palm sugar.
05:04And now some lime leaves.
05:07Tapia lime leaves, just a couple.
05:09Thinly shredded.
05:12Like that.
05:14Easiest sauce in the world to make.
05:16Some lime juice.
05:17Don't bother with getting a squeezer there.
05:20Lying your thumbs.
05:22And now some slaked cornflour.
05:26That's cornflour.
05:26Slate with a bit of water, just to thicken it up a little bit.
05:31And just add that.
05:34Just let that cook out.
05:37Finally, most importantly, a little taste.
05:42Honestly, I just, it just always beguiles me, I suppose, how easy it is to make things
05:52taste nice in the Far East, simply because the mixture of sugar, lime, fish sauce, all
06:00those things together, and chilli, of course, just creates this absolutely Moorish taste.
06:07Good.
06:08That's done.
06:09Let's rock on and do the fish.
06:11Strangely, I couldn't get birdfish in Padstone, so I'm using bass.
06:15As you can see, the tail's still sticking out a bit.
06:18I'm using a wok, because that's what they use over there.
06:21You might be better off with a very large frying pan.
06:24I don't have one quite as large as this, so I quite like cooking it in a wok, because
06:29it looks right.
06:30But just be so careful with it.
06:32I mean, you know, an open pan like that and a gas flame and lots of hot oil, dangerous
06:38stuff.
06:39So, on the whole, if you're cooking on a four-ring burner or a five or a six, keep it at the back.
06:47I'm crazy for a gizmo.
06:48Trouble is, I keep losing them.
06:50Not hot enough yet.
06:52It needs to be about 60 degrees centigrade.
06:55Actually, for a fish this size, if you fry it until the skin is crispy, it's going to be
07:00about right in the centre.
07:02Now, you simply nap it with this zingy tomato sauce.
07:06All you need is some steamed rice and an ice-cold beer.
07:09I quite like serving a whole fish like this, with everyone helping themselves.
07:13And, you know, I really like eating fish with chopsticks.
07:17It makes you look for every morsel.
07:21We got off the boat to the Chow Dock market, because I wanted to buy some ingredients to make
07:26a phir.
07:27It's the classic Vietnamese soup, which is becoming really popular in the West, because it's
07:32light, healthy, and very tasty.
07:35The Chinese ruled here until a thousand years ago, and some of those influences live on.
07:41So, what are they doing there, then?
07:43They are wishing the success to the owner of this shop.
07:47What, they're going into his shop?
07:50Yes.
07:51Oh, I see.
07:51To bring him good luck for the year?
07:53Yes.
07:54Yes, exactly.
07:55Oh, I see.
07:57Just like Padstone May Day, going into everybody's houses.
08:00It's the same the whole world over.
08:02Oh, it's very hot today.
08:07We should have a hat.
08:09What are these?
08:10Yes.
08:11I'm worried it might look a bit silly in it.
08:16Oh, that's better.
08:17How do I look?
08:18Is it better?
08:18Yeah, yeah, it's much better, but do I look all right?
08:21Like Vietnamese.
08:23Oh, good.
08:23I bet.
08:25Come on, then.
08:27These are the right noodles, aren't they?
08:28The rice noodles.
08:29Yeah.
08:30Everything is a rice noodle, but for the four, it's a chocolate bánh pho.
08:36This one is a pho pho.
08:38Oh, yeah, they're nice.
08:39They're wider ones.
08:40Yes.
08:40This one, pho pho.
08:41Okay.
08:41We need four for four furs.
08:44Four furs.
08:46Okay.
08:46How many times a pho?
08:487,000 đồng for one kilo.
08:507,000.
08:51And what's in them?
08:52Just rice flour and water?
08:54Yes.
08:54That's really good.
08:56Brilliant.
08:57Right, now we need to get some herbs.
08:59Yes.
09:01One of the predominant ingredients in Vietnamese cooking is the amazing variety of herbs and vegetables,
09:08including lots of water plants.
09:09They have a slightly pond-y whiff about them.
09:12And they're grown or collected by farmers who bring them here from all over the area,
09:17either on the back of mopeds or, of course, by boat.
09:21Perfect.
09:22How much?
09:236,000.
09:246,000.
09:25There's 10,000?
09:26Yes.
09:271,000 đồng.
09:29So how much is that in dollars, 6,000?
09:326,000 đồng is now...
09:37$0.40.
09:42$0.40.
09:44I see.
09:45Well, that seems quite a good bit of a buy today.
09:47Yes.
09:48I get slightly apprehensive about David, the director, because I know him well enough.
09:57And especially when we're in a market, I worry about all the bizarre things that might
10:02be going through his head.
10:03Have you ever thought of eating dog?
10:05What, eating dog here?
10:07I do not want to eat dog.
10:08You're not going to make me eat dog, OK?
10:10I would say I would.
10:11OK.
10:11It's just that every time you get leading journalists coming out here, food writers, the
10:15one thing they always do is eat dog.
10:17It's like, look at me, how daring I'm being eating a dog, right?
10:21It's disrespectful.
10:22I do not want to eat dog.
10:24I don't want to eat snake either, before you mention that.
10:26I wasn't going to.
10:27OK, because my friend Johnny came out here, and he had snake, and I said, what was it
10:31like?
10:31And he said, it's a bit like eel, but it's got hard bones.
10:36Sounds frightful.
10:37I don't want to eat that either.
10:40Monkey brains.
10:48The Mekong rises in Tibet, flows through Yunnan province in China, Laos, Thailand, Cambodia,
10:55to Vietnam, and then into the South China Sea.
10:59There's always water hyacinths flowing downstream, and they help purify the river, as well as
11:06being harvested for fertiliser.
11:08The Bassac Tu, which is modelled on an old rice barge, takes me to the town of Can Thao.
11:17I suppose it's my age, but I expected to see Vietnam a lot less developed than it is.
11:22I mean, coming to Can Thao here, it's hard to believe that it's a communist country.
11:27And, I mean, it's absolutely peppered with tourist boats, the river here.
11:32And there's all these really modern buildings.
11:34But you get this sense in Vietnam of things moving on at an immense pace.
11:38It's something to do with the climate and the fact that everything's growing.
11:42And there's such an air of optimism everywhere.
11:45I mean, one of the things that came out of the Vietnam War is that, well, A, North and
11:50South Vietnam were united, but also, B, by kicking the Americans out, they displayed this
11:56immense cooperation.
11:58And I think this feeling of cooperation abounds now.
12:01It's a country that's really, if you like, together, and they're moving on.
12:05I mean, the annual rate of growth in this country is the second fastest in the world.
12:10It's about, like, next to China, of course.
12:13It's about 11 or 12 percent.
12:15And that is enormous.
12:16And everywhere you go, particularly here in Canto, you can see it.
12:20It's no exaggeration to say the reason I'm in Vietnam is because of this dish, pho.
12:29I first came across it watching Keith Floyd's programme, Far Flung Floyd, it's a bit difficult
12:35to say that, in the early 90s.
12:37And when I saw it, I just thought, that is perfect Southeast Asian food to me.
12:43So here I am, and I'm going to make one.
12:45And I've been cooking this dish, actually, for about, I don't know, 10 years?
12:50And I just came here to see whether what I was doing was right, because I, in the end,
12:54just got it out of a recipe book.
12:56And I'm pleased to say it is just about right, but I've had Aang show me how they do it.
13:01It's slightly different, and this is how it's done.
13:03Well, first of all, I'm just going to take some shallots and ginger and squish them.
13:07And this is how you squish.
13:11Oh, God, sorry about that.
13:15And they're going to go into a roasting pan.
13:22But before that, I'm going to add some star anise, fennel seeds and cinnamon bark,
13:27and just get them nicely roasting.
13:31And now the shallot and ginger.
13:34The reason for roasting the spices and the shallot and the ginger is to bring out the flavour.
13:40I also think that it actually, the aroma, actually makes the cooking more enthusiastic.
13:47One of the things, talking to the Vietnamese, every time they talk about cooking,
13:51they're talking about the smell of cooking as well.
13:54It's part of what they do.
13:55So those roasted spices, ginger, shallots go in there.
14:07I didn't make this broth because it takes 24 hours to make.
14:12And Hanoi is the best place to see a broth being made.
14:15They use beef marrow bones and, as I said, take 24 hours of very gentle cooking.
14:20Very important.
14:21And the marrow, I think, probably gives the stock of texture, a slightly thick, slightly viscous texture.
14:33Now, this is a bit I didn't realise they do, but they take some onions and they cut the white away from the green.
14:39And they put the white in the broth, in the stock.
14:43And I'm going to then slice the green up.
14:46But before I do that, I just want to thinly slice this top side of beef.
14:50The idea is to cover the bowl with beef.
14:53And, in fact, the hot stock just cooks it, but doesn't cook it too much.
14:57So, there we go.
14:59There's the beef sliced.
15:00And now just slice up the green parts of the spring onion very, very finely.
15:07Now, the next thing is to heat the noodles.
15:09In Southeast Asia, noodles are always reheated in these wire baskets, dipped in hot water, and then added to the bowl,
15:18so that they're piping hot before the bouillon and the other ingredients are added.
15:23When making the stock for pho, I've always thought that it's very similar to a French consomme, a beef consomme.
15:31Then I read that it may well have come from the French word pho, meaning pho, as in poteau pho.
15:37Now, the raw beef is layered on top of the noodles, and that will lightly cook as soon as the boiling bouillon is added.
15:45I'd just like to say that, unlike certain people not far away, I make my own bouillon from scratch,
15:51from beef bones simmered for four to five hours, and not a stock cube in sight.
15:56Now, in go the bean sprouts and fresh herbs from the market, basil, coriander, and mint.
16:03And now all that's left to do is add some sliced bird's eye chilli and fish sauce, a few teaspoons.
16:10Hope that's not too much.
16:12And then a squeeze of fresh lime, hot, salty, and sour.
16:16Well, there we go.
16:19Hope it's good.
16:20Certainly enjoyed cooking it.
16:22I absolutely love it.
16:31A Vietnamese writer said that pho is no longer a dish, it's more an addiction, just like tobacco.
16:38And another said it's the soul of the nation, a contribution to human happiness.
16:43I totally agree.
16:45Oh, David, the director's just asked me to ask Ang what she thinks of it.
16:49I just find it so embarrassing, but there we go.
16:52Ang, would you just come and try it?
16:54And would you tell me what you think?
16:57Yes, of course.
16:58The taste is very Vietnamese pho, but maybe a little too much of fish sauce.
17:20Ah.
17:20Milk mab.
17:21Okay, too many teaspoons.
17:24Yeah.
17:24Well, thank you very much.
17:26You're so deaf with those chopsticks.
17:31It's good.
17:34And so to Saigon, or Ho Chi Minh City as it's called today, I suspect mainly to tell the
17:40people in the south of the country who's the boss, but most people I met still called
17:45it Saigon.
17:46And it was here that one of my literary heroes got a great deal of inspiration, Graham Green.
17:52In fact, this hotel, the majestic, he knew inside out, and it still clings to that time
18:03when it was full of French officers smoking galois and drinking wine as if they hadn't
18:08got a care in the world, before Dien Bien Phu, when the French were defeated and left the
18:13country.
18:14But the hotel still lives on.
18:16Well, the hotel have very kindly let me look round the room where Graham Green stayed, stayed
18:36for a long period of time, I guess.
18:38Wow.
18:39He certainly didn't slum it.
18:41Look at that.
18:42But then we know he didn't.
18:44He was, after all, a novelist and not a journalist, and all the journalists were down the road in
18:49the Continental Hotel and at half the rate he was paying here.
18:54That is lovely.
18:55And I guess that's the desk at which he wrote part of The Quiet American.
19:04The Quiet American is, I think, the easiest way into Greenland, that guilt-ridden, melancholic
19:10world which is so beguiling to us fans.
19:13And at the beginning of Ways of Escape, a book of essays, there's a piece which I think really
19:23sum up why people become travel writers, journalists, or indeed why they make television programmes.
19:29It's wonderful.
19:30Writing is a form of therapy.
19:33Sometimes I wonder how all those who do not write, compose or paint can manage to escape
19:39the madness, the melancholia, the panic fear which is inherent in the human situation.
19:46Orden noted, man needs escape as he needs food and deep sleep.
19:55Such is the way the world turns.
19:57Mickey Mouse certainly wouldn't have been here in the days of Green.
20:01But there's a strong feeling I'm getting that communism doesn't really show its face in
20:06this part of the country.
20:08This is where the tourists come, and maybe the French will come back again.
20:12But this time, for the lovely food this place has to offer.
20:15I like the thought that the Americans spent so much time fighting communism,
20:20but after they left, capitalism moved in all by itself.
20:29The other side of the river is barren of trees, and only grows billboards.
20:33My interpreter said it was as a result of Agent Orange, that awful defoliant sprayed from
20:39aircraft during the war.
20:41People here think it will never grow back.
20:43The more I read about journalists and photographers during the Vietnam War,
20:52the more I realise that they look back now and say it was a dazzling time in their youth.
20:57And you sort of wonder why, because it must have been so dangerous and fear was everywhere.
21:02But then you think maybe fear is like a drug.
21:06I know climbers call the whole sort of fear of climbing feeding the rat.
21:11And maybe it was the same with the journalists.
21:13And you could imagine some in a crowded night here, thank you very much,
21:18a crowded night here in the Continental and some military guy coming in and saying,
21:23oh, there's a place on a helicopter gunship tomorrow morning, anybody?
21:27And somebody would say, yeah, I'm for it.
21:29We'll leave at six o'clock in the morning, feeding the rat.
21:32This is one of the main markets of Saigon.
21:46I'm really lucky I met Cathy Dan, a real foodie.
21:50She's Vietnamese but was born in America.
21:53So, um, Californian Vietnamese, would they find this market strange
21:58or would they be very familiar when they walk through it?
22:01Definitely not all of the loudness, I guess.
22:05But definitely the products are very familiar in the produce.
22:09But there's no bargaining in California.
22:11That's probably unclear.
22:15Cathy told me that people over here eat little and often.
22:18This is a typical lunchtime snack.
22:20It's called Ban Hoi.
22:22All right, Rick, what you're looking at here is the shrimp
22:25and it's lying on a bed of rice vermicelli noodles.
22:28Uh-huh.
22:29So, do you think, um, Vietnamese people living in California
22:32or in the States would want to come back to Vietnam to live?
22:36Uh, definitely to visit.
22:38Uh, but not to live because, you know, in the States you have, like, privacy
22:43and front doors and...
22:45Front door.
22:46And quiet.
22:47And I think it's hard to give up.
22:50The sort of thing we take for granted.
22:51Yes, absolutely.
22:52Yeah, no, no, that's true.
22:53But, I mean, obviously they yearn for the food.
22:56And do you think it changes the Vietnamese food in California?
23:00Um, I think the flavours are very accurate.
23:03Right.
23:04The Vietnamese are pretty set.
23:05I'm like, this is vun tic nung and this is how you make it.
23:08Okay.
23:09And if you, like, mess around with little things, they'll probably say,
23:11oh, no good, no good.
23:13Um, yes, like, my grandparents are very stringent with what a dish entails and whatnot.
23:18What does Vietnamese food and cooking mean to you, Catherine?
23:23Um, it reminds me of just, like, growing up.
23:26Um, like, I know when I was away at college, um, I would go out for Vietnamese food
23:30and, uh, that just brought a huge smile to my face because it just brought back memories
23:35of, like, you know, mom, grandma.
23:37But, uh, I could also introduce my friends to the cuisine, which I always found was really
23:41fun because, actually, I mean, I know so much about it because I grew up with it, but
23:45I guess introducing those who aren't familiar with it is, uh, really quite a pleasure for
23:49me as well.
23:50And, actually, it actually brings me closer to my family as well.
23:52Yeah.
23:53Because I ask them questions.
23:54Uh, my grandma, like, you know, what do we do in this dish?
23:57Like, what?
23:58And so, I mean, it creates, like, a new conversation that you would normally not have with your aunts
24:02or your mother or your grandmother.
24:04And so I really like that as well.
24:06As I say, food is a great way of communicating.
24:09Absolutely.
24:10And a way of, like, retaining, um, culture.
24:13Because, I guess, once you move out of, you know, whatever, uh, country of origin,
24:18um, it's hard to retain culture because language can easily be lost.
24:23But food is something that, I mean, you have to eat three times a day.
24:27So, uh, you can really, um, retain this aspect of the culture.
24:32And I appreciate that.
24:34Yeah.
24:35And if you have a moment to special order, those are good.
24:37I could have chatted to Cathy all afternoon.
24:40In fact, I never heard anyone talk so well about food and how it links us to our family's
24:45friends and, indeed, our culture.
24:47And it really does.
24:49Cathy told me about this Vietnamese dish, which her mother cooks regularly in California.
24:55Well, this is duck braised in orange juice with star anise.
24:59It sounds quite exotic.
25:01In fact, one of the things I didn't realise was that there are a lot of sort of slow-cooked, uh, dishes in Vietnam,
25:08which is where this came from.
25:10Because you tend to think of Vietnamese food, Thai food, as all, like, stir-fries, all very light and quick.
25:15But this is much more considered.
25:18Well, I'm actually sautéing this duck for quite a while, about five, six minutes,
25:23because there's so much fat in the duck, I want to get as much of it as I can out at this stage.
25:29And I'll pour it all off into a bowl, simply because if you leave it all in,
25:33the finished dish would be just very nastily fatty.
25:38I'm going to use plenty of garlic just smashed and dropped onto the duck pieces,
25:43and then a lot of sliced ginger, so important.
25:47Now, instead of a meaty stock, put in plenty of fresh orange juice,
25:51but not enough to completely cover the duck pieces.
25:55Now, a good couple of tablespoons of that very important fish sauce.
26:00Half a dozen star anise, and three or four chillies,
26:04and a stick of lemongrass, which you must gently bruise.
26:08Take that, you swine!
26:10Well, it's only there for flavour. It's not a substantial vegetable.
26:15Add a spoonful of palm sugar and a good grind of black pepper.
26:20Give it a gentle stir and let it simmer for a while.
26:24If this was a Vietnamese duck, it would probably need to cook a bit longer,
26:28because it would be a bit tougher and have less meat than the duck you buy at home.
26:32Some pieces of spring onion for the last ten minutes will finish it.
26:36To say this dish was a revelation is an understatement.
26:40These are the flavours that I went to South East Asia to capture.
26:44Dishes that you just would not find back here in the UK.
26:48The sauce will need to be thickened with some corn flour and a bit of water.
26:52If you just cook one dish from this series, make it this one, trust me.
26:58It tastes like a dacol orange oriental style.
27:01I mean, look, that orange juice has come right down with the fish sauce and the sugar,
27:05and there's a lovely back taste of star anise in there.
27:08It's just fabulous.
27:10I mean, you could serve that up in a Western restaurant and not say it was Vietnamese, really.
27:18The very name Saigon always conjures up specific images for me from its turbulent past.
27:24At my age, the Vietnam War has great significance.
27:28After all, it was on the news virtually every night in the 60s and 70s.
27:32So this gate has a lot of significance too.
27:36Because at the end of the war, there were a couple of tanks down that road,
27:39drove up, gave the gate a great big biff,
27:43and then one of them reversed and clear knocked it right down,
27:47drove onto the top of it.
27:49And a soldier lifted up the turret and jumped down onto the ground.
27:54And you sort of expected a sort of enormous cacophony of Kalashnikovs then.
27:59But now he just went, that's it. It's over.
28:02This was, in those days, the Imperial Palace.
28:05And that tank commander, Mr Tan, who took his flag and raised it over the palace,
28:10now lives in a province in the north where most of the rice is grown.
28:14They say having the graves of the ancestors gives good luck for the harvest to come.
28:19Rice production probably hasn't changed for centuries.
28:22Planting seeds and separating once they start to grow is back-breaking work.
28:27I wouldn't last till lunchtime in 40 degrees of heat and humidity,
28:31but these tough people are at it from dawn till dusk.
28:35Hello! Hello! Hello!
28:36Hello! Hello!
28:37Hello! Hello!
28:38Hello!
28:44This is Mr Tan's village.
28:46I felt like the Pied Piper of Hamelin.
28:48It's clear these kids haven't set their eyes on Westerners before.
28:52I'm told it's a village for military heroes from the war,
28:55tank commanders, fighter pilots,
28:57and, of course, seasoned fighters of the Viet Cong.
29:00They laid down their arms and most of them went back to the land.
29:03Mr Tan now sells gas bottles,
29:06and on the wall of his front room there's a mural commemorating his glorious moment
29:12at the gate of the palace all those years ago.
29:15Those moments are unforgettable, I will never forget.
29:28When I came out from the tank, I didn't know if I was the first one to come to the palace,
29:36but I just picked out the flag to do the task that the high-ranking officials had assigned to me.
29:47I'd just like to know what the food was like in the army in those days.
29:52What did you eat?
29:57Different from other units, we have tanks, so we have spaces for enough food.
30:02We have rice, canned meat, and milk and sugar and so on.
30:09It felt a bit strange asking a war hero about the food during that time.
30:14Well, I'm interested in knowing what kept them going.
30:16I remember reading about the great culinary difference between the two armies.
30:20The Viet Cong took rice and dried fish with them and foraged for vegetation,
30:25while the Americans would never be too far from a steak.
30:29Dried fish is one of the protein staples in the north, as it is over most of Asia.
30:34These fish are really plentiful and this is a land of waste-not-want-not.
30:39They split the fish, salt it and dry it in the sun in vast numbers.
30:44It's funny how you can get familiar with something that initially you dislike.
30:48I mean the smell of dried fish.
30:50It's one of the smells and tastes of the Far East to me now and I love it.
30:55This is Hanoi, the capital of Vietnam.
30:59It's more austere, I found, than Ho Chi Minh City or Saigon.
31:02Maybe that's because it's a darn sight colder up here in the winter.
31:06But it's full of buildings that reflect the Chinese influence
31:10that's been here throughout the centuries.
31:13And of course, the imperial architecture of the French
31:16that ruled here for close on a hundred years.
31:19Experience the atmosphere of old charming Hanoi
31:23in our Citroen Traction 15 Familial 1956.
31:29Please contact the Hotel Concierge.
31:32I think I might.
31:36This is the Metropole, the world-famous hotel.
31:39It's where the likes of Ho Chi Minh came during the war,
31:42along with Russian officers and Chinese officials.
31:45I find it amazing that Ho Chi Minh worked in the kitchens
31:48of the Ritz Hotel in Paris when he was young.
31:51The guest list here includes my hero, Graham Greene,
31:54who gives his name to this particular cocktail
31:57made up of gin, vermuth and creme de cassis.
32:07I can just imagine the late nights here in the 60s and 70s
32:11for Russian officers getting out of their heads on vodka
32:14whilst the wily North Vietnamese looked on in astonishment.
32:18But this cocktail in celebration of this urbane
32:21and sometimes troubled writer lives on to this day.
32:25Come on. Come on.
32:27A Graham Greene.
32:33Blimey! That sorts out the men from the boys.
32:35It's very nice.
32:36I was a bit worried about the cassis in there,
32:38but it just gives it a pleasant sweetness,
32:40which is appropriate for half past nine in the morning.
32:50And so I did take a ride in the Citroen Traxion 15 Familial 1956.
32:5556! That was a couple of years after the French left,
32:59when the Vietnamese won victory at Dien Bien Phu,
33:02to the north-west of Hanoi.
33:07I remember reading about Noel Coward in the early 50s,
33:09who was staying at the Metropole,
33:11but was dining at the French Embassy.
33:13He couldn't help but hear a few little pops of gunfire
33:17away in the distance.
33:18The ambassador suggested it might be wise
33:20not to walk back to his hotel, but stay at the Embassy.
33:24According to Sheridan Morley, he wrote the classic,
33:28mad dogs and Englishmen go out in the midday sun
33:31whilst driving from Hanoi to Saigon.
33:36Now, this is an enormously famous restaurant.
33:40It's called Chaka Lavong.
33:42Chaka means fried fish,
33:44and the Lavong bit is named after an ancient Chinese poet
33:48and revolutionary who was also a fisherman.
33:51And the only dish they cook here is deep-fried Khao Lok,
33:57which is like catfish, scented with turmeric,
34:00which is eventually finished off at the table.
34:03It's also marinated in various other spices,
34:06which have always been a closely guarded secret.
34:09Before coming to Hanoi,
34:11we were told that they don't go in for social niceties,
34:14but just get on with the job.
34:16But that's fine by me.
34:18The food was gorgeous.
34:20Like a lot of Vietnamese cooking,
34:23this dish is all about fresh herbs,
34:25in this case, lots of dill and spring onions.
34:29Then you make it up yourself.
34:31It's rice noodles and the vegetables,
34:33which have cooked for seconds.
34:35And then you add some shrimp paste,
34:37which you let down with a bit of lime juice,
34:39and roasted peanuts for a nice bit of crunch.
34:43Next, of course, fish sauce and a few bits of fiery chilli.
34:55To complete this vegetable extravaganza,
34:58finely shredded spring onions, coriander and mint.
35:02And then, if you're anything like me,
35:05you wrestle with your chopsticks and get the sauce all over your shirt.
35:14Well, do you know, if there was only one dish in the whole of Hanoi,
35:19and this was it, I would come back repeatedly.
35:22It is that good.
35:23I love it.
35:24And when you think about it,
35:26this one dish has been cooked here for over a hundred years.
35:30You can see how successful it is.
35:32It started in the midst of time, of course,
35:35but the same family have been cooking it.
35:37And one of the theories is that this dish came out of the jungle.
35:42It was cooked by the then revolutionaries,
35:45plotting to get rid of the French.
35:47And they came to Hanoi,
35:48and they set up a little street stall here in this street.
35:52And gradually it grew and it grew.
35:54And in the end,
35:55the name of the street was changed to Chaka Lavon.
35:58It's as famous as that.
36:00And as it grew,
36:02lots of revolutionaries used to come and eat here.
36:05And I think it's testimony to the sort of,
36:08if you like, cultural power of food,
36:10the way people meet together to talk about things.
36:13And in this case,
36:14they were talking about getting the French out of Vietnam.
36:18It's the best.
36:19Yeah, we'll go down here into the old quarter.
36:22Right.
36:23The secret with crossing the road
36:24is you just make eye contact with the people
36:26and just set off.
36:27All right, OK.
36:28They'll never stop.
36:30This is an old friend of mine who used to work for me,
36:33but now he's fallen madly in love with the street food
36:36of South East Asia,
36:37and he's written about his experiences.
36:39He's Tom Kine.
36:41I haven't seen him for a long time.
36:43What's amazing with this building,
36:44you see that Vietnam was occupied by China for a thousand years.
36:47Yeah.
36:48So you've got all the layers,
36:49you've got the kind of Communist banner,
36:50you've got the old Chinese architecture,
36:52and then you've got all these fantastic kind of cooking homeware stores.
36:56It's all happening on the street.
36:58I understand why Tom finds Hanoi so fascinating.
37:02The smells of street food cooking would have me coming back again and again.
37:07This is probably the most popular dish here,
37:09and these are strips of belly pork marinated in garlic and soy sauce.
37:14They play an important part in the famous dish of ban cha,
37:18along with these nems, Vietnamese spring rolls.
37:21The whole thing, mainly eaten at lunchtime, is based on a soup,
37:25a light fish sauce-based broth,
37:27perked up with small slices of pickled green papaya and carrot,
37:32in which you put in fresh herbs.
37:34I have a feeling that this is a day for several lunches.
37:38I know I'm with a real aficionado of street food.
37:42Let's have one of these. These are great.
37:44These are called ban kwa, and they are lovely.
37:47Just little steamed pancakes with mushrooms, and then all the herbs as well.
37:52Do we sit on these? Yeah, we sit on these, I'm afraid so.
37:55They're for grown-ups?
37:57Yeah, it's pretty funny at six foot four to be sitting on one of these things.
38:03Xin chào. Oh, surprisingly comfortable actually, Tom.
38:09What's that? It looks like just garlic and vinegar,
38:12probably just kind of slightly pickled.
38:16So, that looks good, sir.
38:18This is called a table salad, so you kind of tear them on top
38:21and just kind of break them up, the kind of mint, the Thai basil.
38:24And then we have, put a bit of chilli on there as well.
38:27And then these are the lovely little type of lime,
38:32so we're just going to squeeze out on the top.
38:35Brilliant.
38:36And then we need a little bit of fish sauce, which is here.
38:40So, where does this go then, or do we dip it in?
38:43Take that and then you can dip it in there like that.
38:45It's all right, I'm just going to tear that apart.
38:47Assuming you use the chopsticks.
38:49Yeah, you use the chopsticks.
38:56Wow, that's lovely.
38:57Good stuff.
38:58What's in there?
38:59What's in there?
39:00So, it's just a kind of mushroom mixture, maybe some chicken.
39:03Yeah, I can toast chicken in there.
39:04But then all the fresh herbs are fantastic.
39:06That's what we...
39:07God, it's such a pleasure.
39:10I mean, you've done a book about street food.
39:12How does Vietnamese street food...
39:14I think it's the best.
39:16I think it's...
39:17I always say, you know,
39:18I go to Vietnam this afternoon and give them half a chance.
39:20So, the fact that we're here, I'm very happy about that.
39:23You know, Vietnamese food has become incredibly popular
39:25because it's very, very healthy.
39:27There's no wheat, there's no dairy,
39:29there's high protein, high vitamin,
39:31all the stuff, you know, ginger, chilli, garlic,
39:34it's all incredibly good for you.
39:35All these fresh herbs and those kind of things.
39:37So, it's kind of...
39:38It's become very popular,
39:40but you can see that, you know, they eat it all the time.
39:43Do you think the Vietnamese would have food allergies then?
39:45No.
39:46I don't think...
39:47I don't think there are any food allergies in the third world.
39:51You know, I think there are only food allergies in the first world
39:54because we choose to be fatty.
39:55I don't...
39:56I don't, you know...
39:57These people will eat...
39:58You know, they've had so many years of famine
40:00that they'll just eat whatever is available.
40:02So, you don't think they need to put a note
40:04saying some of our products contain nuts?
40:06No, I don't think so.
40:08Well, Tom, I seem to remember I first met you
40:14at Leith's School of Fine Cookery.
40:17Absolutely.
40:18I was there when I was 19 and got your card
40:21and came to work for you when I was 21.
40:23I'm very pleased that you're still at it.
40:26I must have taught you something in those early days.
40:28Yeah, absolutely.
40:29You know, I really...
40:30Just...
40:31I love food.
40:32I love people who love food.
40:34I love...
40:35You know, in Vietnam they talk about food all the time,
40:37which is amazing.
40:38There are kind of greetings like,
40:40hello, have you eaten yet?
40:41Or, hi there, you must be hungry.
40:43Or...
40:44There's one that I heard which was talking about
40:46someone who's faithful to their wife.
40:47If they're faithful to their wife,
40:48then they're eating rice from the same bowl.
40:51If they're not faithful,
40:52then they're eating rice from other people's bowls,
40:54and things like that.
40:55So the food is kind of...
40:57It goes through all the literature
40:59and the poetry
41:00and the music
41:01and the culture.
41:03I really love that.
41:04I love exploring places
41:06and just eating.
41:08You know, just using your taste buds
41:10to kind of find your way.
41:13How'd you do?
41:14They said I couldn't leave the north of the country
41:17without coming here to Cat Bar Island
41:19in Halong Bay,
41:21especially if I enjoyed seafood,
41:23which is an understatement in my case.
41:26Most of the people who live around here
41:28do so on floating villages
41:30and fish is their only livelihood.
41:37The best way to see this part of the world
41:39is from the deck of an old junk
41:41and Hu Yen San was my guide for the day.
41:44There are two kind of floating villages here.
41:54The one that we pass by near Cat Bar Island
41:57is just where they have the fish farm
41:59and they raise the fish there.
42:01But their family lives on the land
42:04and they live on the land.
42:05And the children, everybody,
42:09they all live in the land,
42:10studying, working in the land.
42:12But the other floating village
42:14is the traditional one.
42:15And we don't know exactly how long
42:18it has been exist.
42:21And as I know, the whole family,
42:24they live there generation to generation.
42:27And what they do for life is go fishing.
42:31And the children, they live there.
42:34Most of the children in this floating village,
42:37they don't go to school.
42:40The only way for them to travel is on the small boat,
42:48the bamboo boat.
42:49They can go from this family to other families.
42:52And that's the way to the children to...
42:55The children out of the school
42:57because they don't go fishing with the parents.
43:01So they have a little boat
43:03and they try to sail the small clams
43:06or the things that they can catch
43:09for tourists to take as a souvenir gift.
43:14Can we buy some clams?
43:16Yeah, sure.
43:17I think we can get in and buy some.
43:19OK, and she'll keep the dogs off us.
43:27This area is famous for cat bar oysters,
43:30something I've never heard of before.
43:32They're grown in baskets suspended
43:34in the clean water of the bay
43:36on a rickety framework of fish pens.
43:39Some have fishing
43:40and some have these famous cat bar oysters.
43:43Well, this net is for the fish.
43:45The other...
43:46Over there is for...
43:47For the clams.
43:48Oh, OK.
43:49But what worries me
43:50is that the whole structure
43:51has been designed
43:52for the light and nimble frames
43:54of the Vietnamese people.
43:56You see?
43:57This is a special clams that they use.
43:59Oh, yeah, yeah.
44:00Clams?
44:01I thought they were oysters.
44:02I must say I was a little bit worried about falling in.
44:09It was very, very rickety.
44:11But it was fascinating
44:12the way they were growing them.
44:20That'll probably be about enough, yeah.
44:22Everything I see in Vietnam is about practicality.
44:29I mean, they're just the most sort of clever people
44:32at doing things.
44:33And in fact, I saw these clams.
44:35They call them oysters here for some reason
44:37because they certainly aren't.
44:38But they fetch really good...
44:39Shut up!
44:40Shut up dog!
44:41Shut up dog!
44:42They fetch really good money!
44:44Can we...
44:45Can we buy?
44:46We'll go and do some...
44:47Yeah, sure.
44:48We'll go...
44:49Right.
44:51I think I'll go this way.
44:53Oh, my God!
44:54We've lost a dog!
44:57Come on, doggy!
45:00Doesn't seem too fast.
45:01This very new hotel prides itself on cooking these cat bar oysters.
45:07But they're not really.
45:08They're clams.
45:09Well, I was thinking of stir frying these on the boat
45:12with the weather closed in
45:14and I'm very pleased it did actually
45:15because what I failed to notice was
45:17they've actually dropped these briefly into boiling waters
45:19to take that rather unpleasant looking outer skin off
45:23and now they look totally delicious.
45:25And he's stuffing them with a mixture of shallots,
45:28spring onions, peanuts and fried onions.
45:31And there's just a little bit of colour in there
45:33but I think it's natural colour.
45:35I'm just going to try and find out what it is.
45:44Well, I've been really looking forward to this.
45:47It's so good, this kitchen.
45:48There's so much activity.
45:50And that guy over there is a real top gun chef,
45:53the one on the walk.
45:55Heaven knows how much gas it uses on.
45:59Oh.
46:00I mean, apparently you can only get these clams
46:02around here, around Katmar Island.
46:04People come from all over
46:06North Vietnam, South Vietnam,
46:08the whole country to eat them.
46:10There's a cat in the background there.
46:14But I can see why.
46:15They're very, very good fetch.
46:16Really high price.
46:17Just incidentally,
46:18that little colour they put in at the end
46:20is called anatosis.
46:21They use them in Mexico too.
46:23It's just a natural red colour.
46:24And so this is how they serve them over here,
46:27along with the sculpted carrot.
46:29They're strictly for the serious seafood lover.
46:32They're just a little bit tough.
46:34If I was cooking clams the South East Asian way,
46:37and let's face it, we've got plenty of clams,
46:40I'd do it like this.
46:42Hot oil, say peanut oil,
46:44and then chopped garlic and matchsticks of ginger,
46:47and a good generous helping of chopped red chillies.
46:51Well, I like a bit of spicy heat.
46:53Now I'm going to put in a black bean paste.
46:56I mean dry black beans that I've chopped up,
46:59not black bean sauce, which isn't quite so good.
47:02I love this.
47:04It's really nutty and goes well with the ginger.
47:07This is how I went about making them.
47:11They're fermented soybeans,
47:13and they've been salted and left to ferment,
47:15and during the process they go black.
47:19I sprinkle them with sugar and chop them as finely as I can
47:23before adding some sesame oil,
47:25and then smashing them up with a spoon to make the paste.
47:29They really give a nice, toasty, dark undertone to the dish.
47:33Now the clams go in.
47:35I'm using carpet shell clams.
47:38When we were leaving that floating raft,
47:40I asked the lady how she would cook them,
47:42and she said she liked them cooked in beer.
47:45So why not?
47:46And now for the beer.
47:48South East Asian beer.
47:50The right thing.
47:52Not too much.
47:53Oh, my God!
47:55Ha, ha, ha, ha, ha!
47:57Oh, I feel like one of those Formula One racing drivers.
48:01Ha, ha, ha, ha!
48:05Sorry about that.
48:07If I can get something,
48:09if it's possible for something to go wrong,
48:11go wrong it will.
48:12Anyway, there's the beer in there.
48:15So I'll just put the lid on there now.
48:18Let them steam away.
48:20While we were out on that junk, something quite unusual happened.
48:24I noticed a flash of white coming from the base of one of the islands.
48:28What are they doing?
48:30I think they went out with a small boat, the bamboo boat.
48:34Oh, yeah.
48:35And there's a problem with the boat. It sank.
48:38The boat sunk?
48:39Yeah.
48:40Fortunately for them, it was low tide.
48:42And even more fortunately, we just happened to be passing by.
48:46It sank.
48:47It sank just around this area.
48:49And they, they swim from this, uh, where the boat sunk,
48:53back to that, uh, mountain, that, that, that rock.
48:56Anh Cường ơi!
48:57Cho lên tàu chên này nha.
48:59Mấy người nhoi nhoi nhoi nhoi chút ma.
49:01The two women and the baby, they, they cannot swim.
49:04Oh, poor things.
49:18So there we are.
49:20We come all this way to make a cooking program
49:23and end up saving the lives of this entire family.
49:26Anyway, back to the clubs, which have opened.
49:30All to do now is to throw in some chopped spring onions.
49:33They don't need to cook.
49:34And dish the whole thing out.
49:36A fitting memory to a great place.
49:39I've loved it all.
49:41The differences between the north and south are pretty apparent to me.
49:45But I think it's the smell of the street food
49:47which will be a lasting memory.
49:49The sort of thing that will bring me back time and time again.
50:00Think of the word exhilarating and this is it.
50:21I mean, everybody remembers trips on these long-tail boats down the Chow Chow River
50:26because it's so exciting.
50:27And it awakes the small boy in me with that engine on the back.
50:31It's got to be a lorry engine.
50:33And you think, why does it have to be so big?
50:35Well, it has to be so big because they go so fast.
50:38Just thinking, if this were for Thames, there would be lots of speed restrictions.
50:43Five miles an hour.
50:44But here, it doesn't matter.
50:46And it sort of symbolises the sort of slightly precarious life of Bangkok.
50:51Everything's at such fast pace.
50:54It's probably one of the world's most exciting cities.
50:57And that's reflected in the food, too, because it's so vibrant, so lively.
51:01It's hot, it's spicy, it's sour, it's everything.
51:04And there's so many varied cuisines.
51:07I mean, just for this one moment in time, there is nowhere on earth I'd rather be.
51:15Unlike Vietnam, I've been to Thailand many times and know the food well.
51:19In fact, Thai food is on the menu of loads of pubs in Britain today.
51:24But things often get lost in translation.
51:27And so, in this odyssey through South East Asia,
51:30I wanted to find authentic dishes that are cooked and served the same way,
51:35day in and day out.
51:37And the best food over here, in my opinion, is street food.
51:41And this place has the reputation for cooking great Pad Thai,
51:45which means noodles cooked the Thai way.
51:48I came here with Christopher Chung,
51:50who has an infectious love of food that fired my imagination.
51:54So, this area is called Ghost Gate?
51:57Yes.
51:58Why?
51:59Just around the corner here,
52:01that's where all the old temples and it's near the palace grounds.
52:05Yeah.
52:06In the olden days, you have all these criminals.
52:08They get executed around here.
52:10Criminals wrecked?
52:12Around here.
52:13And the bodies come out from these gates.
52:15So, all you have is dead bodies going in and out of the gates.
52:19And, of course, then the local believes that,
52:21since there are so many people dying here,
52:24that there will be ghosts around here.
52:26And, therefore, the name, the Ghost Gate.
52:30Presumably, with all these bodies going in,
52:32you've got the families of those poor dead people
52:34would be coming to see them go.
52:37Yes.
52:38And they would have to have something to eat.
52:40Exactly.
52:41And then the food.
52:42And then, of course, they've got to bring something famous in.
52:45What is famous is the Pad Thai.
52:47So, is this a particularly special Pad Thai?
52:50Well, it is the oldest Pad Thai store in Bangkok.
52:55And all that's famous for is Pad Thai.
52:58There will be a massive long queue.
53:00All we do is come here for the Pad Thai.
53:02Really?
53:03So, in other words, this is probably the most famous Pad Thai noodle restaurant
53:09shop in Bangkok.
53:11It is, it is.
53:12And Pad Thai you can get all over the world now.
53:14This is as authentic as it gets.
53:16This is...
53:17The real...
53:18This is where it's at.
53:19Yes.
53:20This is where it's at, how we should have it.
53:25I can only get a rough impression of what these people are doing.
53:28They go at it with a real will.
53:30But as far as I can make out, Pad Thai consists of prawns, noodles, stock made with prawn shells, tamarind and palm sugar and loads of fish sauce.
53:41And they do a deluxe version using white crab meat and some encased in an omelette and others just have an egg thrown in.
53:48I suspect everywhere I go in Thailand the Chinese influence will be writ large and Bangkok's Chinatown for the hungry traveller is a real must.
54:05If I was dreaming about a street market with some of the most attractive and appetising food I could think of, it wouldn't even come near to this.
54:15I mean, you've got prawns, popples, crabs, you've got charcoal, you've got masses of activity.
54:22I've never seen popples cooked like that over charcoal, just waiting till they pop open.
54:27And these guys that, well, they look at a central casting as far as, as far as cooking outside is concerned.
54:34I mean, well, it's, it's street food nirvana.
54:40I can't write fast enough.
54:41I should have bought more notebooks with me.
54:44Just walking a hundred yards, I'll have enough recipes for a book.
54:48But the food inspires conversation and interest, no matter who you find yourself sitting next to.
54:54So, erm, tell me this, just for a bit of a joke.
54:58Right.
55:00Have you ever tried English food?
55:02Roast pork, yes.
55:03You have?
55:04Roast chicken, yes.
55:07Roast chicken, and do you like it?
55:10Yes.
55:11What about potato salad?
55:14Potato salad?
55:16Very good.
55:18Yeah, potato salad.
55:20I wouldn't immediately pick that as a prime example.
55:23Yeah.
55:24But I love it.
55:25I love it too.
55:27It's funny how different races perceive other people's food.
55:31When I passed this truck, I saw this man operating like a surgeon on, I think, Southeast Asia's most famous fruit.
55:39Now, this is one of the, should I say, enigmas of Southeast Asian food, the durian.
55:46If you look at a durian, if it fell on your head when you're walking past a tree, it would kill you.
55:53It's that big, it's got spikes on it.
55:55But the thing that everybody finds really, really weird about it, certainly Europeans, is it's utterly offensive odour.
56:04In fact, sometimes, hotels have cheaper hotels, say, no durian.
56:09Like, you can't go into the hotel with it.
56:11I actually don't mind the smell, but it is, I suppose you could describe it as fetid.
56:18It's almost the sort of smell of Southeast Asia.
56:21You sort of, when you smell it, you think drains.
56:24You think rather dirty rivers.
56:27You think, sort of, like, pong.
56:30But the thing about it is the taste is exquisite.
56:36It's very, very sort of custardy.
56:40It's sort of like, it has a wonderful sort of, to coin a phrase, wonderfully soft mouthfeel.
56:46And it's fragrant and garners that rather unpleasant sort of pooey odour.
56:52And you're left with a sweet, yes, fragrant, yes, soft and lovely taste.
56:58Sometimes I wish I could eat and eat.
57:04Not out of greed, but just interest in taste.
57:07I remember from previous visits that this is a great dish to end a meal.
57:12Sweet mango over sticky rice cooked in coconut milk.
57:16It's one of the things I cook at home.
57:18So easy, simple and delicious.
57:20Apart from all the food, that is a Vespa unlike any other.
57:27Putting my nerdy hat on, if I'm not mistaken, I think it's a PX125.
57:32And it's even got a little rear tail gunner.
57:36I'll continue my journey through southern Thailand in the next programme.
57:40And I'll meet up with one of my culinary heroes, David Thompson.
57:44A very funny man who spent the best part of his life researching old recipes throughout the country.
57:50I'm going to add a little bit of tumour, yeah.
57:5360% of taste is smell, whereas in the Thai repertoire, they use their senses more instinctively.
57:59We should more. I was just thinking about, I think it was Chesterton wrote this song about a dog saying,
58:04they haven't got no noses, the fallen sons of Eve, even the smell of roses ain't what they suppose is.
58:12Do you know, they sing that song so often in Thai markets.
58:14Do you know it?
58:15Oh yes, in Thai markets, in this Thai market they sing it all the time, those noses and the roses.
58:19Well, there you go.
58:22What is he on?
58:23bebop Hem八 años
58:28De한데...
58:29from the home...
58:31From the sky worn...
58:33Tr透Hechoolers
58:35It's a double blight.
58:37And the finder like the Truck comics made it all the time,
58:39it's just a mystery,
58:41so it's not that they don't even sleep.
58:43Go抵 recognised dressed in the clothes,
58:47there's not the самиck reeds,
58:48just to confirm.
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